RIP wallet

Someone said 345's. :tup:

You can stuff so much tire in the fenders of our cars it is crazy.

Check out Rearden

NISSAN 370Z GTS | for sale | Rearden

Looks like they offer building motors on top of fully built racecars.

I was quoted $45k for a "reliable" 850whp - 900whp. That's with Mazworx providing the majority of what's needed.

Obviously, that's if everything goes perfect and I know the odds of that happening are slim.

.

****... you guys... I am really thankful for the solid info... and it's making me question my goals. I'm still thinking a mazworks motor might be the way to go and just not push it to the 800-900 power level.

I guarantee that is not with supporting mods. LSD diff, diff cooler, suspension, wheels and tires, brakes, etc.

Read Spooler’s thread.

It’s the only big power VHR37 thread (800+whp) that’s completely honest about every single failure and hurdle, AND not a dyno nor garage queen.

Even without him disclosing every price tag, you will have a good guess on $ involved. Big $ to start, big $ as reserve, big down time and patience involved.

Even though it’s been 12 yrs, “reliable” 800+ on this motor is still a relatively new and lofty territory.

Whatever you do, best of luck :)

:iagree:

:wtf2:

Thanks, it has been an adventure.

So, what are the limitations of our manual trans? Our dif? What numbers should I aim for before the budget necessary goes through the roof? I'm still thinking the mazworks motor will be what I want to do. Where is that happy medium between the 600 on a stock block and 60k to get 850-950 reliably? What threshold should I aim for? As it stands I'm working with a stock nismo suspension, trans, axles and dif.

I am on the stock trans. It won't hold if I go to the drag strip, so I don't go. It may grenade at any time. Input shaft or 3rd gear may let go. You need the diff to calm the car down. It is all over the place with a stock VLSD. That is a safety thing. Axles, no launching they should o OK to around 800whp. No drag strip either. Wheel hop, kiss them goodbye. Take 3 weeks and read/watch the videos in my thread.

You forgot the whole SPL catalog. :rofl2: Even without boost. Most guys here run the SPL catalog.

No one gets it all right the first time…no one.

I don’t care if it’s old school ‘Mercian iron, a Jeep, or a z. There’s just always gonna be a few little (sometimes big) somethings that pop up. :shakes head:

Let’s take a quick snapshot at $$ ballpark prices for the OP and anyone else for that matter, I’ll let y’all big z boys fill in the $ #’s for me…

Fueling system:

Suspension (spl everything):

Rear diff cooling and lsd:

Built motor:

Trans upgrades (6mt):

Or

Trans upgrades (phunk dct):

Wheels and tires:

Brakes (oem akebonos):

Or

Brakes (aftermarket BBK):

Aero:

Misc supporting mods (IC, lines, piping, gauges, etc):

Safety (roll cage, seats, harness etc):

Agreed value insurance (maybe?):

Yup, that’s a pretty penny, we had that on both our old nismo track cars. :tup:

There’s fun rabbit hole and then there’s ruin your life rabbit hole (what I call a black hole).

Whether or not someone’s project becomes one or the other ultimately depends on planning, finances, willpower to see it thru, and frankly a bit of luck.

I won’t beat a dead horse but I still say the sweet spot for this platform where you have a big build but it doesn’t become a black hole and ruin your life or car is a stock block FI tt build making 500-600whp. Even a blown motor is an easy fix with a replacement long block and it’s pretty cheap. It’ll be fast as hell and won’t be broken or need one off parts all the time and you could even drive it cross country to zdayz and not be worried about it shiting the bed randomly.

Imo, /\ that’s the sweet spot for this platform. :driving:

"LS Swap!?!? Eww, gross." ... Now I know what Spooler really thinks. lol

I'm living proof you can burn a lot of money with any engine. The time frame on my build is a bit skewed because of 2 things:

1. I'm a dumb animal
2. I LOVE jumping down black holes like it's a never ending ride.

Every time I turn around I find another item that needs 200-500 minimum. Funny that you guys are talking rear diff, I'll use that as my example.

My vaporware should make some big power after I dial it in. With that in mind... I need a rear diff that can handle BIG POWER. Here's the rabbit hole:

Winters Quick change - Fully built to handle 2k hp. <--- this is the tip of the sword of what I own.

Known hole:
MA Motorsports rear subframe w/ SPL bushings
MA Motorsports Anti Squat
CF Drive shaft
DSS Drive Shaft

Unknown(ish) hole
Rear coils (need corner weight)
SPL rear stuff... I'll look at Jobby's car. lol
Powder coating?

Thank fully I'm going to settle on running power this year (hopefully). Get a drive shaft and hook it up as is for a shake down.

Main point here... I was just showing a rabbit hole and how you can lose yourself when you start throwing around big HP.

LOL, you are not done yet. If you can get all your gauges working and everything else. Then it will be a proper build. Finish it up and then I will tell you what I think.

I guess I'm going to stay stock block and go for the 600whp goal. It sounds so much simpler to achieve then the hurdles I will have to go through to achieve really big power. If I want to make 800+ easy, I guess I'll need to invest in a v8 platform or V8 swap...which makes me kinda sick to think about (Nissan Purist)

DRZA wont touch a stock block though, it doesn't meet their reliability standards. I'll need to find another shop if I go the TT stock block route.

An LS swap cost more than a proper TT build. Done right, they are not cheap at all.

SteveVQ - I've been wrestling a LS swap for a while now. Once you start cracking the engine open and buying performance parts, it's not cheap like Spooler said. You're welcome to pick my brain, I'm an open book.

If you're planning on getting a Used Gen4 low miles, gapping the rings, CAM, melling pump trunion, swap kit, wiring specialties (BCM to Stock PCM for stock gauges), intake and running a large single turbo... I think you can get it done for about 20k. That's you doing all the work. If you are REALLY serious, I will help you work out pricing (you will need to do some leg work too). Also, take a look at my build thread. There are plenty of do's and dont's in there.

I will say this... The kits out there now will speed everything up for you vs my slow snail path. There were literally no kits when I started. Use ONE swap kit only, don't mix and match because they are designed to work as one unit.

Now keep in mind that doesn't really go down the supporting mods your car will need. 900+ HP on the car seems to be a turning point for sh1t that you will break (from what I've seen).

I'm not trying to discourage anyone either. I just want your eyes to be open to the fact it's not different than spending 20k with Fast Intentions.

Actually there is a difference... F.I. has been designed to work with all your factory components. You WILL be mad as he11 with your car occasionally doing an LS swap (or any swap)... that's the nature of the beast.

Take a spin through my build. I have tried to take meticulous notes. Hopefully you will find inspiration if you go down that path.

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...-leg-hump.html

Hopefully that is helpful.

Appreciate it gents :tiphat:

Feedback from the veterans along with these build threads really does help. :tup:

Edit: :eek: Absolutely amazing work @gbrettin. She's going to be a bad bishh.

I really value all the input. Right now I'm at the boosted stock block on E85 point, and I would like to set myself apart from that. A Mazworks built motor is definitely going to give me more reliability than a stock motor, and it'll set me apart from that, which is part of why I want to go built block... I don't wanna be "just another boosted stock block on E85" guy. Not that 600whp is run of the mill... but getting to the point where I'm pushing past the fully built Golfs... or STIs... being a cut above them is kinda where I want to be. Super thankful that my eyes are open to all of the **** necessary to hit 850-900 now, but also looking for what point to aim for that's not going to require things like replacing sub frames and BMW trans swaps. I'm also, like Spooler, not going to be racing at dragstrips, nor from digs... that's not what I enjoy... but I'd sure love to catch back up with that blue supercharged coyote mustang and pull on him instead of watching him pull on me again.

Before fixing the deleted pcv and seeing all the blue smoke that resulted, I was entertaining the idea of a sequential to stay in boost through shifts. Perhaps going back to that line of thinking may be worth considering. I was just starting to research them... and they are.pricey... but would I be wiser to stay with a stock block and get a sequential given my goals? The thing that was bothering me is they don't seem to offer much longevity.

There are plenty of guys out there that run more than 600whp on the stock block with reliability. Even a fully built motor from Mazworx or SOHO doesn't guarantee reliability at 800/900whp although it sure helps :rofl2:

It's not a build yet though... :rofl2:

Thanks man.

Well it seems that 700-800 might be the ballpark with a built motor to avoid breaking the rest of the drivetrain. But I'm wondering here, will I be better at stock block 600+ whp and taking that money I would spend on a built motor and put in a sequential trans to give me the ability to push faster through gears by simply staying in boost? But how many miles will a sequential last?

You would be better putting it into your motor. Stock is not gonna last and when it goes it is ugly. A proper Sequential is 25k.

Ops, they have gone up.

https://ma-motorsports.com/products/...hange-gear-box

Bob's (Hotrodz) stock block lasted I think 5 years of track abuse. I'd take that any day of the week. :tup:

:eek:

That Hollinger is exactly the one I was looking at. So let's do math.

VHR core about 1500, plus shipping to Mazworks, then add 15,000 plus tax, plus shipping back, then motor swap labor... that's a price tag in the ballpark of that sequential.

Would another 150whp make me faster than sequential shifts and keeping boost?

The thing is, isn't the lifespan of the gears rather short?

Stock tranny? It depends on how you treat it. New Nissan trans is $1700, or it was. LOL Everything is going up.

It depends on what you are use too. 600whp on my car was boring as chit. 718whp was fun. 900whp was great.

Do whatever you want. Pay your money and take your chances.

Yeah, but you're a freak ;) Most guys have no business driving a 900whp z. My sc'd z was fun at 680 (probably closer to 700 due to clutch slip). I may be in that same hp area with my tt build.

Boys boys, let’s just settle this like immature men shall we?

when gbrettin’s z is done y’all need to attend a 1/2 mile event and see who’s got the fastest time and trap speed…. :stirthepot:

I think I speak for everyone here when I saw I’d love to see that. Loser has to put a sticker on his windshield that says “i shoulda got a v8/or I shoulda gone TT”. :happydance: And keep it on there until the next zdayz. :tup:

If you’re in central Florida area, get in touch with Derek Heim. He’s built plenty of tt z’s and big power gtrs. You’ll be in good hands. :tup:

EI Racing.

https://eiracing.com/


I’ve known Derek for many years, he’s a good guy and excellent mechanic. :tup:

FTFY; it is a TT Ls motor.

:rofl2::bowrofl::roflpuke2: