Nismo Differential upgrade
 

I plan on upgrading my differential to the Nismo version. Do I need the Z1 High Capacity Differential Cover and the Bell Raceworks Rear Differential Brace?


Any tips are appreciated.

Short answer: it bolts in as-is. Those are upgrades to the stock parts.
Long answer: while the Nismo diff is an upgrade, it's not much of one. You might do a bit of digging into the drivetrain posts and see what everyone is using for upgrades on their Nismos.
Viscous Limited Slip is on the low end of the chart.


Kirk B.

The Nismo diff isn't much of an upgrade. Most use a Wavetac. I'm using a OS Giken. I also installed the Z1 cover, SPL diff bushings, and the Bell diff brace. With the Bell diff brace. Depending on which exhaust you have. It might need modded for clearance.

I assume OP is referring to the OEM Nismo, not the Nismo GT PRO.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/nismo-...l-p-12434.html

OP, which Nismo version diff are you getting? The OEM Nismo diff really isn't an upgrade as has already been mentioned.

High capacity will help with cooling. Are you tracking the car? Probably don't need it otherwise.

Diff brace doesn't fit with certain exhausts (like Fast Intentions style canisters) so be careful. Good upgrade for drivetrain stiffness (we all like that :yum:) if that's what you need.

I have the sport package diff right now. I preferably would like to keep the same final drive ratio and get a 1.5 way. I don't know how you call it but the one I was talking about is the Nismo diff you can get from the dealer basically. Is there a better version available from the dealer too? What's the right part number? As for the Bell diff brace clearance, my exhaust is GReddy GT Evolution. Will this fit on my 370z?

Did you look at the link cv129 posted? That's the upgraded diff. The stock Nismo LSD is no different than your sport LSD.

Probably no on the diff brace. I believe that exhaust has axle-back style canisters. It's possible but you'll need to do some research to find out. You might not even find out and will have to be the guinea pig if you want to try it out.

This is the diff you are talking about. It replaces the carrier in the diff. You reuse the same ring and pinion. You have to use a gear lube for LSD's because it has clutch plates in it.

If you get the diff brace and it doesn't have enough clearance. I can mod it to clear. I've done about 20 of them so far.

Does that LSD even work in the 370Z? It looks like it says that one is for 350Z and G35 models only...

Yes sir. Z34 specific link below.

I remember there was someone here that had this...he had a Magma Red Nismo, owner was all things Nismo and I think (if my brain is still somewhat working correctly) car changed hands already.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/nismo-...ro-p-7987.html

Don't forget the OEM Nismo final drive ratio of 3.92. Don't know if the sport diff is the same. I was under the impression that it was exclusive to the Nismo 6MT model.

I believe it was exclusive to 2015+ Nismo, unless Nissan further apply to sports pkg car during later model years (can't keep track of the little changes anymore).

Even the 7at in 2015+ final drive ratio got a bump. First gear feels noticeably shorter, or quicker off the line, compared to other 7at's I've had.

The final drive on the 09-14 is 3.69. I believe the sport is the same.

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Is it possible to get the GT LSD Pro from the dealership?

How did you mod it?

I think the most effective and accurate answer is directly from the parts guy at your desired dealership.

Weld it up and reshape it.

Is the Bell diff brace negligible if I put urethane diff bushings and urethane transmission mount along with urethane motor mounts? I don't want to buy parts that will not fit my car. I'm just looking to reduce power loss since I've already done my exhaust and clutch system.

Now for my engine, I was leaning toward the Z1 2.5" intake because they say it can be run without a tune and can be tuned later for better results. Right now I have the silicone tubes and K&N drop-ins. Anybody been there that can chime in?

IMO the brace works best with solid diff bushings. The brace is solid, so why not the bushings.

General thinking on the forum is if you get both intake and exhaust mods. You need a tune. One or the either, no tune is needed.

While I perfectly understand your point of view, mine is more oriented towards win/win upgrades. I read that solid mounts and bushings increase cabin vibrations while the urethane is a bit less intense. This is not a track car but more a street toy/race car. I want to keep it driver friendly as much as possible and not ruin the touring experience.

My question about the diff brace necessity remains. I appreciate my platform and would like to enhance the experience without sacrificing too much on the comfort aspect.

For example, I got the RJM Clutch Pedal assembly and it improved the drivability and performance. So I would prefer not get a modification that will decrease drivability.

I managed to find an installation video on Youtube that shows the Z1 finned cover does not fit the GReddy GT Evolution exhaust. They had to cut the fins on the sides near the exhaust.

I would guess the Bell brace won't fit either but on another installation video I've seen how they cut it. It's ugly but it seems to work anyway.

All that being said, I am convinced for the Bell brace but I would like to have your opinion on the Z1 cover if it's worth the money and the trouble to cut some of the fins.

I had to cut the fins on mine for clearance with the FI exhaust. The Z1 cover increases the amount of lube by about 1/2 liter. I also have a diff cooler and a temp gauge installed. I've seen temps as high as 270F before turning on the pump and fan. With the cooler, there is 3 liters of lube in my set up.

I have all of the SPL catalog on my Z. Solid diff bushings, sub frame bushings, etc. The diff bushings really didn't make that much difference in noise.

I run the Z1 diff cover, OS Giken 1.5 way, Z1 poly diff mounts, and a modified Bellworks diff brace. My Subframe is solid mounted with Nismo/SPL subframe bushings. It's not bad or hard to deal with. No whining in the cabin. I hate that. That is why I have the poly mounts. I also run a diff cooler and that is a must have with a clutch diff. It is loud at a stop, driving you don't notice it so much. The Z1 cover you trim the bottom fins to clear.

I have searched for the Nismo and the SPL subframe bushings. It appears that the Nismo kit includes shims for adjustment. The price is significantly higher than Z1 or SPL but since it can be ordered at the dealership I could then avoid paying for the shipping.

Do you have the solid or polyurethane transmission mounts and what are your motor mounts? What diff cooler would you recommend?

Since I will not track the car and the abuse only consists of acceleration pulls from a roll, could I postpone the diff cooler if I do get the Z1 finned cover and the Nismo GT L.S.D Pro or the upgraded diff may get hot without an aftermarket diff cooler?

I run a stock transmission mount. Too damn noisy otherwise. I have CJ Motorsports motor mounts. They are noisy and have some vibrations. Once you are moving, you don't notice it. IF I had to do it again I might would go with the Z1 poly motor mounts.

Go with a Wavetrac, that is your best bet and cheaper overall since you don't have to have a cooler.

No extra noise with the Torque Solutions trans mount :twocents:

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I will stay stock. I don't need to crack a block between the head studs and main studs.

:iagree:

The SPL and Nismo parts are one and the same. SPL makes the parts for Nismo. Then Nismo marks them up. The only difference between them is color and the Nismo items have Nismo on them.

Wavetrac Diff
 

Since one axle is to be changed in order to fit the Wavetrac diff I was wondering if upgrading the axles to the 1200hp Pro-Level axles worth the money? Do guys with 750hp turbo setups run the OEM axles?

The stub axle is changed that goes into the diff. Not the axle. Yes, I do have upgraded axles. It depends on what you are going to do with the car if you need the DSS axles. At 800whp or higher is when they are needed or if it is going to be a 1/4 mile car.

Does the OEM timing belt fit the lightweight Stillen standard crank pulley or I should buy a gates aftermarket?