Cmak clutch bleed, 1/2 inch play, not coming up
 

Hi forum,

Just finished a Zspeed clutch install with the cmak. Been trying to bleed it for over an hour. Issue is, when I press the clutch pedal down, it comes back up 95% of the way. There is a very small amount of play that I have to pull the clutch pedal up manually. Any ideas?

I upgraded to the wilwood master cylinder and measured the OEM length with calipers and set it to the wilwood. Pedal distance from the floor looks exactly like I had it before, almost level with the brake pedal

Tried bleeding again for a bit... Same thing. I'm using the technique as if I were bleeding brakes.

OEM or RJM clutch pedal assy?

OEM pedal assembly

Talked with Joe this morning. Mentioned that I probably just need to adjust the master cylinder on the clutch assembly. Probably off by a half a turn or something. I'll give that a whirl and check back.

FYI. I posted this yesterday because Zspeed closed before I could ask Joe. Figure someone here may have ran into it.

So found a thread on the Cmak review and OP was kind enough to post a picture with the measurements of the Fork to tranny. I measured this myself and all looks good. Just the adjustment of the pedal is needed. Here is the original thread:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ak-review.html

So buttoned up everything. Clutch feels like an old mustang clutch I once drove before. Much stiffer than stock... but more deterministic for sure. When it grabs, it just grabs. Not like the dual mass flywheel that "lagged" when grabbing.

***NOTE***
There is some play in the pedal assembly. The pin that goes through the pedal is machined for the Master cylinder "adjustment fork".. but on the pedal side, there is some play. Going to research this... there isn't a sleeve or something that fell out is there?

Get the RJM pedal and dump that OEM garbage. It will fix what ails you :twocents:

I'll send you an old 2.2 revision for free if a little bit of research doesn't convince you to just buy the latest rev 3.X yourself.

yeah, i've heard good things. There is a v4 version for my 350HR available September 10th. I'll have to think about that one. Already plenty deep in $$ with the A-A upgrade and Clutch kit. Maybe a next year mod

Update

So I forgot about the switch adjustment screw when I was setting the pedal yesterday. I ended up getting it pretty much perfect. The pedal is just slightly above the level of the brake pedal. Using specialtyZ clutch pedal adjustment instructions, I was able to dial it in. Instead of backing out the switch threads completely flush to the nut, I added 2 turns.

Also, to get rid of the play in the pedal, I grabbed some thin sheet metal and added a cut a small piece just to wrap once around the pin. I stuffed it into the pedal hole and greased it up. The pin now is tight in there and removed the play. Will have to see how long that lasts, but a quick DIY fix until I get the RJM pedal next year.

Clutch Pedal Adjustment |

Also,

The flywheel chatter is minimal. I do hear it once in a while, but a little adjustment on how I engage it will fix that over time. Definitely much stiffer. Just sucks I have to drive a bunch of miles in low rpms. Going to keep it below 3k for 500 miles. Then add more rpms for another 250 miles... Then at about 1k miles, I'll start getting more aggressive.

Thanks again for the input and help!

You can adjust the play out with the just the master rod adjustment, No need to add anything in there, Just don't go too far or it can hold pressure in the system (BAD)

Update after 1K miles on the clutch. Thing still grabs like no tomorrow. Since picking up the 14 Nismo, I'm remembering how crappy the old clutch in the HR nismo was. Probably going to look for the CMAK delete for the 14 nismo.

On another note, the 14 nismo only has 16K miles. After a hard drive, i can hear the CSS noises at idle. Errr, annoying. Another purchase from Joe @ZSpeed coming. Working on a TT motor build right now, so I'll wait until that is done.