Cooked my torque converter
 

So after a spirited mountain drive it looks like my torque converter is toast. It won't unlock and the car now shifts into drive with a big jolt.

I had a shop do a power flush on the trans but that hasn't improved it. The only transmission specialist in my area doesn't want to touch my FBO and tuned 370z with a 10 foot pole.

I'm seriously considering dropping the transmission myself and sending the TC away to be rebuilt. I can see plenty of videos of people dropping the MT, and it doesn't look hard.

Has anyone else dropped the auto themselves? Can you advise on any gotchas I might run into? I plan to use high jack stands and a transmission jack.

Alan

Simply upgrade the converter and flexplate forget a rebuilt just going to damage it again. Consider a valve body upgrade when in there and installing a dipstick for checking level and refilling. Makes it much easier than filling from bottom BS routine.

I am being told I will need a re-tune with an upgraded torque converter. Do you know if this is true?

Not that I've heard of and I cannot think of why considering the TCM is not addressed with anyone's ECM tune.

So a quick update to my issue. I got the TC out myself and sent it off to a TC specialist. He's never seen anything like it before. I have apparently broken the clutch damper and he couldn't get parts for it.

So he "Removed broken clutch damper and clutches" and sent it back to me. He states that this will turn it into a normal non-lockup torque converter but he couldn't say 100% that this will work with my transmission without reprogramming.

I have attached a picture of all the parts he has removed.

Phone or email Pat@Levelten Transmission’s (973)827-1000
He has a lot of experience with these transmissions & converters :tup:

This'll be interesting :drama: Let us know how it goes without lockup function.

I have built a few lock up converters in my day.

The damper is definitely bad. I see several cracks in it. That doesnt happen very often.

Those parts are not available as new in the aftermarket. I dont think Jatco sells them either. But a good damper could be harvested from another converter core. Your clutch and steels look okay - used - but okay - and could be reused.

So no lock up is possible to do, but your mileage will suffer and it may throw codes from the TCU. So, for example when it commands lock up, but doesnt see a speed ratio change, cause there is no longer a lock up clutch, it will set a code.

Might consider a different path..

Lack of full lock-up doesn't sound very fun to drive with. I'd consider both finding used parts, be it the TC or full transmission, or getting a built one, before considering running without lock-up.

I would stay away from Level 10

Ok another update for you guys. I have put the transmission back in with the repaired torque converter now minus the lockup clutch.

I have lost a bit of trans fluid during the the process (also installed a trans cooler) so I don't want to flog the trans until I can get it topped up, however I did take it for a drive and it appears to function as per normal.

I would liked to have purchased an upgraded TC, however I'm on a tight schedule with a big race in 2 weeks. This was by far the quickest and cheapest option.

My transmission guy said that the only downside will be fuel economy on the highway and that it will never be locked up anyway while flogging it.

I'm curious if the Levelten or IPT torque converters retain the lockup clutch.

Alan

Bingo! Cookie for you.

Tranny works perfectly but I have thrown code P0744.

This will get me through the race season and I'll have a look at my options after that.

If you’re full throttle racing; chances are slim if your converter ever even goes into lockup :ugh2:
They’re designed for cruising speed fuel economy & gives you the 1:1 coupling :tup:

JC is correct - Nothing wrong with non lock up converters.

Lock up converters were developed to save fuel.

We have raced the non lock up units since the 70s and still do today.

If the code is not an issue for you, leave it in and run it.

This modified converter might run hotter on the trans temp depending on the clearances he used when rebuilding it. So just keep an eye on trans fluid temp.

I have had the code turned off now, so it's not going to be a bother at all. I'm not sure if I'm imagining it, but the engine seems a little more free now. The starter spins harder and it revs better in neutral.