Nice I don't even want to get to the broken diff bushing saga. Figuring if installing the diff brace it'll save the bushings. :ugh2:

Do a search and it will go into detail about removal of the diff OEM bushing. In a nut shell you will need to remove a brass sleeve when removing the oem liquid filled bushing. Some people press it out when installing the new bushing. My mechanic cut it out he replaced it.

I've done 3 bushings, mine, and 2 members on here. To remove the old bushing. I used a 2" diameter, extra deep hole saw to cut through the rubber and metal inner bushing. Don't use a cordless drill. Use a good plug in drill. You'll be doing some hard cutting. I tried the Z1 removal tool and thought it was a joke. Next was a sawzall to put 3 cuts into the outer bushing shell.Then used a inside muffler cutter to remove the bushing outer shell. Once you got the outer shell out from the frame. MAKE sure that there is NO burrs, boogers or anything sharp inside the frame hole. I used a 80 grit flapper wheel on a 1/4" die grinder. The frame hole where the new bushing will go is NOT perfectly round. Then they welded the sub-frame together. The welding distorted the hole. Something that you have to live with. Grease the inside of the hole up with anti-seize. Grease it good. I found that the solid SPL bushings are easier to install then the poly style. The polys like to squeeze out just before the hole. Also,installing the bushing from the front of the sub-frame is easier. I can remove the bushing in about 20 to 30 minutes. Installing about 1.5 to 2 hours.

The Z1 tool presses the inner bushing out. It's easier to just cut it out.

Note. The oem bushing has 2 chambers that are filled with a black silicone liquid. You HAVE to be careful when removing the inner bushing. The silicone WILL squirt about 4 ft and cover everything when you start to drill or cut through the rubber. :facepalm:

I can tell from the tone, this is experience talking, not some "hurr durr text book says so" moment:icon17: