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-   -   Late model P/S fluid reservoir (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/133649-late-model-p-s-fluid-reservoir.html)

ZoomZ 04-20-2020 09:01 PM

Late model P/S fluid reservoir
 
HI Guys,

I have 17 Nismo. I wanted to ask guy/gals who have a late model, if they have encountered or what I see in my Power Steering reservoir.

I wanted to do the simple flush method of suck out, fill, drive, suck out procedure as I have done with My Mo and X.

However, when I proceeded to drain my Z reservoir, I noticed that there is an internal, NON removable screen half way down. At least that's what it appears to be.

I cannot drain the fluid from below this screen. I looked for openings to get a smaller tube in, but no joy.

If this is the case, it leaves me the only option of removing return hose and draining entire reservoir. Unfortunately, it will require the removal of R/H air box. This will suck as I would have to disconnect this hose 4 times to get proper drain/flush.

Is this the case with earlier models? Youtube shows standard Nissan reservoirs which can be completely sucked out. I am guessing 2014 or 2015 models and up may have my style.

zz

viiv 04-20-2020 10:34 PM

Yes I have a 2020 and this is the case for me. I wanted to upgrade to Motul synthetic fluid from factory stuff. I already had the dealership change out all the clutch, brake, and power-train with Motul/Redline products after break in.

Decided to do the power steering myself in this less invasive way.

Only then did I discover that filter. I have been sucking fluid out after approximately every drive when warm since I can get more out. I wasn't counting but it took me 8-10 times (days) to get a whole bottles worth. Not sure how the math works out on that.

I am contemplating doing two more bottles which will take approximately a month and hopefully get most of it out.

If I do do that, after which I will do a session approximately once every 1-2 weeks for continual renewal, probably going through a bottle every 4 months or so?

JARblue 04-21-2020 05:21 AM

My 2011 has no such screen. Done the ranger method before without issue.

SonicVQ 04-21-2020 07:55 AM

You could add a short piece of vinyl tubing to the end of the turkey baster or syringe like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOaQaED5oQQ

ZoomZ 04-21-2020 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3927452)
My 2011 has no such screen. Done the ranger method before without issue.

I guess somewhere along the line they made a change to reservoir.

My Murano is 2013 and it has no inner screen.

ZoomZ 04-21-2020 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viiv (Post 3927389)
Yes I have a 2020 and this is the case for me. I wanted to upgrade to Motul synthetic fluid from factory stuff. I already had the dealership change out all the clutch, brake, and power-train with Motul/Redline products after break in.

Decided to do the power steering myself in this less invasive way.

Only then did I discover that filter. I have been sucking fluid out after approximately every drive when warm since I can get more out. I wasn't counting but it took me 8-10 times (days) to get a whole bottles worth. Not sure how the math works out on that.

I am contemplating doing two more bottles which will take approximately a month and hopefully get most of it out.

If I do do that, after which I will do a session approximately once every 1-2 weeks for continual renewal, probably going through a bottle every 4 months or so?

I'm not sure if I even got a couple tablespoons from the upper portion. Ya, this method would take forever.

ZoomZ 04-21-2020 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SonicVQ (Post 3927489)
You could add a short piece of vinyl tubing to the end of the turkey baster or syringe like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOaQaED5oQQ

I don't think you understood the problem. My reservoir is not like one in video. It has a screen "trap" about a 1/4 way down. So, I am only able to turkey baste about 2 tablespoons or so that are above this screen.

I have to look again, but I think the screen stops at "MAX COLD" fill line.

I will report again.

ZoomZ 04-21-2020 12:44 PM

and the guy in video is using MOTOMASTER fluid??? Why even bother doing the flush with that fluid? Better off with the dirty old stuff already in there. LOL

I used that fluid in my Quickjack motor/pump and it didn't work!!!!

Zyonara91 04-22-2020 05:58 PM

I use Motomaster ATF for the Corolla PSF, it has done a great job, change the fluid every 40,000 km. However I can remove the return hose and get all of the old fluid out, so that helps.

Let's be real, fluids, conventional and synthetic have come a long way from what they use to be. You can pump your car full of Amsoil, Redline etc if you want, it is after all your wallet and of course you cannot put a price on piece of mind. So if that's what helps you sleep well at night, go for it, no one can stop you.

However, nothing can stump REGULAR scheduled fluids changes, whether you use the best stuff or the over the counter brands.

For the Z I would no go through the hassle of removing all the stuff, just go the suction method.

INFmstrTech 04-23-2020 07:29 AM

My advice is buy the old style reservoir, the ‘new’ style has a lot of problems with fluid cavitating due to that restriction within the res along with a good bit of noise. I literally replace these almost daily, it’s a horrible design! Old design is completely compatible and your able to flush however you wish!

ZoomZ 04-23-2020 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INFmstrTech (Post 3928173)
My advice is buy the old style reservoir, the ‘new’ style has a lot of problems with fluid cavitating due to that restriction within the res along with a good bit of noise. I literally replace these almost daily, it’s a horrible design! Old design is completely compatible and your able to flush however you wish!

Ya, that might be the route I take. Good idea.

Thanks.

zz

ZoomZ 04-23-2020 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zyonara91 (Post 3927996)
I use Motomaster ATF for the Corolla PSF, it has done a great job, change the fluid every 40,000 km. However I can remove the return hose and get all of the old fluid out, so that helps.

Let's be real, fluids, conventional and synthetic have come a long way from what they use to be. You can pump your car full of Amsoil, Redline etc if you want, it is after all your wallet and of course you cannot put a price on piece of mind. So if that's what helps you sleep well at night, go for it, no one can stop you.

However, nothing can stump REGULAR scheduled fluids changes, whether you use the best stuff or the over the counter brands.

For the Z I would no go through the hassle of removing all the stuff, just go the suction method.

"What we got here is a crusader". My favorite line from the movie Platoon. LOL.

Ya, fluid is your $$$ value. I believe in quality 100%.

Again, this reservoir will not let me drain from top.

old guy 04-24-2020 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INFmstrTech (Post 3928173)
My advice is buy the old style reservoir, the ‘new’ style has a lot of problems with fluid cavitating due to that restriction within the res along with a good bit of noise. I literally replace these almost daily, it’s a horrible design! Old design is completely compatible and your able to flush however you wish!

:iagree: RepZ

ZoomZ 04-24-2020 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INFmstrTech (Post 3928173)
My advice is buy the old style reservoir, the ‘new’ style has a lot of problems with fluid cavitating due to that restriction within the res along with a good bit of noise. I literally replace these almost daily, it’s a horrible design! Old design is completely compatible and your able to flush however you wish!

You happen to have a P/N for the old style?

Just want to make sure I get correct unit (mounting points etc)

I did a rough search, and they are about $225 USD or about $300 CDN$. :eek:

I may have to visit boneyard and pick a clean one for 100 bucks.

zz

INFmstrTech 04-24-2020 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 3928579)
You happen to have a P/N for the old style?

Just want to make sure I get correct unit (mounting points etc)

I did a rough search, and they are about $225 USD or about $300 CDN$. :eek:

I may have to visit boneyard and pick a clean one for 100 bucks.

zz

They are all the same for the mounting point, it just slides into the bracket. As far as part numbers, I do not have the old p/n. Hey you could find an Infiniti g35 sedan 07-08, g37 sedan 2009 and get a part number. I personally would just find a used one, just make sure it’s not contaminated with debris and it DOESN’T have that black o-ring on the outside of reservoir where the cap would ‘seal’ to.


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