370z torque converter
 

How it going I made another post about swapping out transmissions but looking at my other options I been doing some research and came to determine that my problem looks to be the torque converter here’s a little about the problem I been having when I put the car in drive or reverse and don’t gas it stalls when I gas it it starts vibrating a bit a and seems to run perfect after that seems to be changing gears perfectly to me but when I get to stop sign or intersection it shuts off my car only has 42k miles does anyone know if replacing only the torque converter would solve the issue I was planning on getting a high performance one from level 10 what are the chance something else in the inside might be wrong as well? Would guy recommend just doing the transmission rebuild at the same time or would I be ok just swapping converters anyone that’s gone through this before or if anyone has a clue could you please let me know any help or ideas would be appreciated

Not a single period to be found.

Sounds like a sprag broke on our TC causing it to be locked up all of the time. Replace it and you should be good to go as long as it didn't damage anything else in the process. Happens to stock auto trannies in the diesel world all the time. The problem with them is they have an anti stall feature. The truck would try to blow through a traffic light or stop sign with the brakes depressed.

Sorry bro was looking to get help on my car, didn’t think I was going to be graded on the post next time I’ll make a rough draft on a piece of paper and proof read it before I post it just in case you swing by. ;)

Thanks for the info. That’s what I was told as I been asking around trying to get quotes on just replacing the torque converter one shop quoted me at 800 to replace the torque converter that’s just labor but was telling me maybe I should think about doing the rebuild as something else might have got damaged he wasn’t trying to force me to do whole rebuild but he recommended as he said if any fragments entered the transmission it could’ve done some damage on the inside

At least you used a couple of punctuation marks this time :icon17:

You will get more responses and your chances of getting a meaningful answer will improve if your posts can be easily understood. Your grammar, spelling, punctuation, etc don't have to be perfect - just readable. You are asking for a favor; try to make it easy on the people that can help you.

Sorry, but I have neither the time nor the inclination to do your proofreading. I suggest you enroll in some English classes.

;)

He got a question mark in!

OP, when in doubt, refer to southark370z’s FSM in his sig.

But confusion is more better! Hard to understand is more bestester!

What was the fix?
 

I am having the same exact issue. Did you replace the TC? What was the fix? Thanks

my 2¢ from a previous g37 question/post...


"hey. it's your transmission/torque converter. can't say which one for sure. my 13 sedan started doing the same thing after a hard pull from a stop. i had changed the trans oil a few months before that. @ 95k miles. i did drive it around a couple of weeks because it was intermittent. it finally started stalling all the time so i swapped it with a used trans/torque conv. myself. problem solved. could be just the torque converter. thing is, when they fail, it produces metal shavings that contaminates your actual transmission. i think that's what happened to my trans. it had metal shavings everywhere inside, although it was shifting fine until the very end. i never got a check engine light BTW."

i want to add. check your trans fluid first for contamination. if none, you might get lucky and only have to swap your torque converter unlike me. i didn't bother to check first. make sure to flush your trans cooling lines either way. nissan sales an inexpensive aerosol can for that.

For OP and Venturamann, your issue is your TQ converter. Period.

A replacement converter "CAN" fix the problem however for a converter to lock up usually means metal shavings are blocking fluid from returning to the trans, keeping it engaged. Which gives the feel of a manual car with a frozen clutch.

The issue is that this contamination might be inside of the passages of the transmission and either the new converter will do the same upon starting or "work" for a bit until it locks the next converter.

Either way transmission needs to come off in both of y'all's :D scenario.

Replace TC and flex plate. If only doing bolt on's and not boosted, performance TC not needed unless you want to raise the stall speed.