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-   -   Swap NISMO 7A differential with my original 2009 7A diff? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/131738-swap-nismo-7a-differential-my-original-2009-7a-diff.html)

CrunchyCajun 08-14-2019 06:59 AM

Swap NISMO 7A differential with my original 2009 7A diff?
 
Has anyone made this swap? The entire rear diff from the Nismo 7A into a non Nismo 7A? The Nismo should cut a couple tenths off 0-60.

My understanding is that people who have changed the rear end gear ratio with the 7A lose cruise. My question is, if I swap the entire differential, with the NISMO 7A, will the cruise work?

I have a bad pinion bearing at 55k miles and thinking of just swapping out the units, but not interested if it creates a secondary issue like non functional cruise.

Thanks

RamseyJ 08-15-2019 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrunchyCajun (Post 3872595)
Has anyone made this swap? The entire rear diff from the Nismo 7A into a non Nismo 7A? The Nismo should cut a couple tenths off 0-60.

My understanding is that people who have changed the rear end gear ratio with the 7A lose cruise. My question is, if I swap the entire differential, with the NISMO 7A, will the cruise work?

I have a bad pinion bearing at 55k miles and thinking of just swapping out the units, but not interested if it creates a secondary issue like non functional cruise.

Thanks

I can't directly answer your question but my educated guess would be yes and cruise control should work.

I had an 2012 g37 7A (open diff) and i swapped in a 370z manual diff for the final drive advantage. If i was able to pull that off (cruise control worked), which is more complex than going from a 7A to another 7A, I can't imagine you having a ton of issues. They should have the same flange and everything but I'd see if you can confirm. I do hear people lose cruise control when going to the 4.08 final drive, but haven't seen any issues swapping OEM diffs.

Just my personal experience, hope it helps. :hello:

Rusty 08-15-2019 06:44 PM

What you have to watch out for is the bolting on the axle stubs. Is it through bolts with nuts, or just bolts that thread in?

jchammond 08-15-2019 09:12 PM

My 11’ Auto had an open RC33 from the factory; later added a Quaife...better traction.
Cruise would max out at 90/3000rpm’s.
I later swapped pumpkin with a 13’ Nismo, that had the 3.69 gears & it was a direct swap~ as my stub shafts were threaded & so were the 13’ model.
Speedometer was dead on still; as speed reads off the output stub shafts toner ring sensors...Cruise control would work normal; until the tachometer would get near 3k & speed wouldn’t be near 90...then it would go off & cruise light would flash.
After cycling ignition/ everything was normal again.
Just be prepared to recycle ignition if you blast it down the road....even if you don’t have cruise set/ somehow it will recognize a speed vs rpm fault. :tup:
Never checked into weather or not a tuner could reprogram ecu for this :ugh2:

jchammond 08-15-2019 09:31 PM

Also; my swap came from a stick shift Nismo & not an A/T Nismo....unsure what year the Nismo was offered in an A/T, but it wasn’t until around 2015’ till they received the 3.69 gears for the A/T & the manual got a 3.92 :tiphat:

CrunchyCajun 08-16-2019 04:59 AM

Thanks for your input, was hoping someone who had done a swap would comment.

CrunchyCajun 08-16-2019 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3872927)
Cruise would max out at 90/3000rpm’s.


Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3872927)
Cruise control would work normal; until the tachometer would get near 3k & speed wouldn’t be near 90...then it would go off & cruise light would flash.

Your cruise would hold set speed normally and accurately up to 90? Normal and accurate are the main things I was concerned about.

CrunchyCajun 08-16-2019 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3872903)
What you have to watch out for is the bolting on the axle stubs. Is it through bolts with nuts, or just bolts that thread in?

I read about this issue. The 2009 is different than the later years, so will have to either swap out stubs, get new axles, or get something machined. Seems like the consensus is the design of the later version was much easier to deal with, so I will probably look to change to this.

The NISMO 7A differentials can be found cheap, so it seems to makes sense to swap the entire unit instead of trying to mess with the old one.

jchammond 08-18-2019 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrunchyCajun (Post 3872975)
Your cruise would hold set speed normally and accurately up to 90? Normal and accurate are the main things I was concerned about.

Stock diff (RC33) it would hold speed steady to 90@3000rpm’s,
After swap, I’d have to look back & see...but would only cruise around 75, as rpm’s approched 3,000 & would kick off.
Could be a program to fix/ as the RC36(3.69) diff is factory in the Nismo A/T’s 15’ & up :tup:


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