Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3831998)

That is to the heater hoses. Get the Z1 metal coolant bleeder. That will take it's place.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3831998)

That is to the heater hoses. Get the Z1 metal coolant bleeder. That will take it's place.

Originally Posted by Alex_rentsch (Post 3832006)

Thanks guys , I’m no mechanic, sorry but This part would be put where the break in the hose is ?

Originally Posted by CRiZO (Post 3832009)

Correct, factory pieces are usually plastic and yours seems to have left you and the kids. I'd replace the spring clamps while you're at it. That's not something that really ever falls out...

Anyone know if there's a lot of flex there? Maybe worn motor mounts wiggled it loose?

Originally Posted by CRiZO (Post 3832009)

Correct, factory pieces are usually plastic and yours seems to have left you and the kids. I'd replace the spring clamps while you're at it. That's not something that really ever falls out...

Anyone know if there's a lot of flex there? Maybe worn motor mounts wiggled it loose?

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3832015)

The little plastic coupler dry rots over time and bam. Not coolant.

Originally Posted by Alex_rentsch (Post 3832028)

I’m ordering this part but is there a temporary fix I can do to get my car home ? I’m in a paid parking lot right now and my place is like a 10 minute drive from center city. I just don’t want to have to keep paying for the parking longer than I have to lol

Originally Posted by Alex_rentsch (Post 3832028)

I’m ordering this part but is there a temporary fix I can do to get my car home ? I’m in a paid parking lot right now and my place is like a 10 minute drive from center city. I just don’t want to have to keep paying for the parking longer than I have to lol

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3832060)

just tow it home...

as other stated, this connector usually causes a slow leak, but your is broken in half. it is in a tight spot and be sure to bleed the cool system.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3832064)

PVC coupler from Lowe's /Home depot, 2 hose clamps and some coolant. Looks like 1/2in size. The PVC couplers are gray in color with slip ends on both sides.

Originally Posted by Alex_rentsch (Post 3832106)

do i have to worry about bleeding lines just to get it home?

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3832203)

You can half *** it but don't go with nothing. The problem is if you create an air pocket. They can be a pain to get out.

Originally Posted by CRiZO (Post 3832030)

I forgot 2009 was 10 years ago lol. :grandpa:

Tow strap and a slow butt-clenching ride home with you steering and braking? :icon17: Depending on the paid parking, it may be cheaper to just let it sit there than anything. Maybe $20/day? I'd just make sure the lot owners and their tow company are aware, so you don't have impound fees and **** to worry about.

Here is the part number if you have somewhere local you could just pick it up from: 92417-JK20A

Originally Posted by Alex_rentsch (Post 3832210)

Yeah dont want to half *** it lol. Gonna try and see if nissan has the part. put the part in and do a coolant flush and bleed the lines with a DIY. any tips or tricks?

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3832360)

I don't think there is any bleed valve. you may have to use a tool to pressure bleed the cooling system or take it to your local shop.

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3832364)

Leave the radiator cap off of the reservoir & fill (after filling engine side w/non sealing cap.
Then run engine w/heater turned on...occasionally bump gas pedal & when thermostat begins opening-coolant will go down in jug.
Top off while running & keep process going until heater is working well & jug is full.
Put radiator cap back on & re-check after you drive back & engine cools off :ugh2:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3832364)

Leave the radiator cap off of the reservoir & fill (after filling engine side w/non sealing cap.
Then run engine w/heater turned on...occasionally bump gas pedal & when thermostat begins opening-coolant will go down in jug.
Top off while running & keep process going until heater is working well & jug is full.
Put radiator cap back on & re-check after you drive back & engine cools off :ugh2:

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3832900)

will that get the air out of the heater core for sure since the connector he's replacing is for the heater hoses?

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught (Post 3810751)

I brought my Z into the shop and performed a under hood and under vehicle inspection. Check and corrected all of the fluids including each cell for the battery. Set tire pressure to specification and changed my oil and drained and filled my cooling system. I also changed my engine air filters and my cabin filter. I used all OEM fluids and parts.

For those of you that are nervous about getting air in the cooling system, don't be. Once you close the drain valve, open the air bleed plug/valve on the left top corner of the radiator. Slowly fill the radiator until coolant starts to come out of the air bleed plug/valve. Then, install the plug and continue to fill the radiator until coolant is above the upper hose where the radiator cap is. Install the radiator cap. Also ensure the coolant bottle is filled between the minimum and maximum lines.

Start the car with the coolant bottle cap off. Let the car run until operating temperature is achieved and make sure your fans come on and that your thermostat opens up by feeling the lower hose. Install your coolant reservoir cap after making sure the coolant bottle is filled within specification. Drive your vehicle for a few miles and then come back and check your coolant reservoir and add coolant as needed. :tiphat:

I will drain and fill my coolant when I do my next two oil changes. This should get out all of the old coolant from the system. My Z is at 50K miles. I bought her brand new. I will be also installing new PCV valves and spark plugs when I change my oil next time as well. Maintenance is the key. :tiphat:

Originally Posted by Alex_rentsch (Post 3833007)

From all the videos ive seen this method seems to work? burping out all the air through everything but if someones got a definite answer, thatd be great :ugh2:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3833044)

Here is a post from the On Topic thread that may be useful.

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3833622)

The air relieft plug is actually located on the front face of the radiator near the top left corner. Shouldn't be hard to find. See #19 on attached FSM excerpt.

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3833044)

Here is a post from the On Topic thread that may be useful.


Originally Posted by Dreadnaught View Post
I brought my Z into the shop and performed a under hood and under vehicle inspection. Check and corrected all of the fluids including each cell for the battery. Set tire pressure to specification and changed my oil and drained and filled my cooling system. I also changed my engine air filters and my cabin filter. I used all OEM fluids and parts.

For those of you that are nervous about getting air in the cooling system, don't be. Once you close the drain valve, open the air bleed plug/valve on the left top corner of the radiator. Slowly fill the radiator until coolant starts to come out of the air bleed plug/valve. Then, install the plug and continue to fill the radiator until coolant is above the upper hose where the radiator cap is. Install the radiator cap. Also ensure the coolant bottle is filled between the minimum and maximum lines.

Start the car with the coolant bottle cap off. Let the car run until operating temperature is achieved and make sure your fans come on and that your thermostat opens up by feeling the lower hose. Install your coolant reservoir cap after making sure the coolant bottle is filled within specification. Drive your vehicle for a few miles and then come back and check your coolant reservoir and add coolant as needed.

I will drain and fill my coolant when I do my next two oil changes. This should get out all of the old coolant from the system. My Z is at 50K miles. I bought her brand new. I will be also installing new PCV valves and spark plugs when I change my oil next time as well. Maintenance is the key.