SyncroRev Match not working
 

So heading home from an autox event this last weekend syncrorev match stopped working. Looking for any suggestions on where to start looking.

Recent history:

Recent work includes clutch, flywheel, ZSpeed CMAK, and RJM Tilton CMC and pedal assembly. Did the CMC and pedal assembly install myself and had a trusted, well respected shop install the clutch, flywheel, and CMAK. Picked the car up from the shop a couple weeks ago and drove it home which was about 100 miles. The whole way home s-mode worked flawlessly. Drove to the autox event last weekend and s-mode continued to work fine. S-mode worked throughout the event. Leaving the site, s-mode unexpected stopped working and every attempt to turn it back on resulted in a warning being displayed on the info screen on the dash. Even now the gear indicator on the dash is working fine. The cruise control isn't working either but I can't remember anymore if that is something new or hasn't worked since I disconnected the yaw sensor last year.

It's been a busy week at work so I haven't had a chance to do any troubleshooting yet. If anyone has any suggestions on where to start it would be appreciated.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1974/...74fc5239_z.jpg

Try to reset the ecu :ugh2:

I had the same issue after the clutch install ... in my case the can bus cable hit the exhaust and melted .... I would check your can bus cable make sure it is intact .. and connected firmly ... being that you said it worked for a little while I would think it hit exhaust and melted through

i had the same issue when I installed my rjm clutch pedal, mostly S-mode and cruise control didn't work but on occasions it was working, there was a plug that wasn't properly installed to the pedal.

So this doesn't turn into one of the other million threads on here where someone has a problem but never comes back to say what the solution was, I thought I'd post an update with what the problem and solution was.

Started by checking the switches on the pedal assembly and turns out the upper switch (the one that reads when the clutch pedal is out) wasn't making. It initially looked like it was making but apparently it was just slightly off from actually actuating the switch. Made a minor adjustment and the switch started making.

When starting the car to verify this was the issue, S-mode still would not come on. It wasn't until I released the clutch and actuated the switch that had been out of adjustment that S-mode started working again. Drove the car around the block and everything seems to be back to normal now.

Thanks for the input everyone.

I also had the same problem the clutch pressure switch was not hooked up properly and what happens is the car thinks that the clutch pedal has not been pressed in a really long time so it throws an S Modera that's what happened to me. Does your cruise control work?

Honestly don't know. It's an autox car that occasionally gets driven around town. Once I verified syncrorev match worked by taking the car around the block, I put the car back in the garage where it will stay until next spring now.

In my case, Cruise Control didn't work when I got the error message about S Mode.

Hate to resurrect an older post but i'm having this issue currently too. I checked the connection for the clutch pedal switch and its connected firmly. My cruise control is also not working and I did a CSC / master cylinder replacement a few months ago.

My issue is strange, if i do an ECU reset (un hooking the power for 20 min) the issue goes away but comes back. How can this temporarily fix the issue?

I do not usually drive with s-mode on so I don't know when exactly it stops, i just find out after the fact by trying to use it.

I also checked the connection at the actual button to be on the safe side but since its giving the warning light, but i assumed that wasn't it. I have read there is another sensor somewhere else I should look at but not sure where.

Hope someone has some advise here before i surrender to the stealership.

One of the clutch switches is probably just out of adjustment slightly. Mine was only slightly out of adjustment and that was all it took.

Also, at least from what I saw, the ECU has to see the issue awhile before it faults the SRM system. Additionally, even after the switch is adjusted correctly, you'll need to drive the car around the block for the ECU to be happy the switch is working again.

Just to make sure, you are referring to the black push switch that is hit by the clutch pedal, correct?

I need to make sure that is plugged in, drive around the block, and then give the s-mode a shot? Should i also reset the ecu again for good measure or am i thinking of the wrong switch

iirc, it's the switch that senses the clutch at zero travel that caused my issue. For me it wasn't a matter of the wiring being loose, it was the switch was out of adjustment. It takes very little change in the switch's position to make it stop working. If the switch is being actuated correctly, you should hear a faint click right as the pedal reaches the fully released position.

Assuming this is your problem, you shouldn't need to reset the ECU before driving around the block.

Just looked at that switch and its being pressed when the clutch is all the way released. I even put my finger between it and the rubber stopper thing to make sure there was decent pressure.

I'm at a loss, is there any other sensor that could be knocked out? And if they are plugged in is there some sort of reset (not ecu i have established that does not work) for the sensor?

Thanks for the help too!

The FSM will have functional description, wiring diagram, trouble-shooting procedure, switch setting procedure, etc.

When I had my problem, the switch visibly looked to be positioned correctly. It was only the faint little click of the switch making and breaking (or lack there of) that let me know there was an issue. The body of the switch is threaded with a nut on each side setting its position. Just a fraction of a turn can be enough to throw it out of position.

If S-Mode faults, and cruise control doesnt work, its going to be the top clutch pedal switch. The cruise would have been non-functional for a while, you just might not notice it. If the top switch is not making fully closed contact than the vehicle controls are unable to tell when you are on/off the clutch pedal, so of course cruise and S-Mode could not work.

The top switch is not to be confused with the bottom switch, which is used to allow the engine starter to engage.

Top switch adjustment might be needed after doing clutch related work. It will also often need adjusting after installing and even after changing adjustment to the RJM adjustable pedal.

so after a master cylinder replacement this could of been bumped?

I ask because the chain of events is this:

CSC and Master cylinder replacement

Track day with 0 issues

track day with my shift mistake

Ecu solves problem temporarily so its still messed up somewhere.

Could this still be the top switch? i put my hand up there and felt alot of pressure from the rubber stopper to the switch that goes in.

Thanks for your help too!

Check if your cruise control works or not. If the cruise control doesnt work, then it is almost definitely the top clutch switch.

This could definitely happen due to a master cylinder replacement. Anything that could effect the stroke of the clutch pedal can cause the switches to need re-positioning.

Apologies for reviving an old thread, however I’m running into a similar issue with Rev match.

CMAK Kit was just installed along with upgraded clutch. Rev match and cruise control DO work however, the engine no longer revs when moving the stick shift to the right and/or left. Prior to the CMAK, while in neutral preparing to downshift, I could move the stick shift to the left and the engine would rev thinking I was going to put it in 1st or 2nd. Now Rev Match will only work once I actually downshift into the gear.

Is this due to the CMAK Kit or should this still be working?

Rev-match should work fine even with the CMAK. First guess is something didn't get reinstalled correctly when the transmission was put back in.

Yup, Rev Match should still work. Rev match is a function of the engine control system, and it doesnt have any way to realize that the clutch or its hydraulic system has change.

Rev match uses wheel speed, engine speed, input shaft speed, and shifter X/Y position change to determine what it wants to do. Since you would have other obvious consequences to losing wheel speed or engine speed sensing, you can really just consider the sensors and switches dedicated to rev match. If your gauge cluster is accurately determining what gear you are in, you can easily assume the shifter position sensor is working fine. If your input shaft sensor was not plugged in, I am pretty sure but not 100% confident there is a DTC code you will get for that. Do you have a way to plug in and read the input shaft speed sensor? I cannot remember if UpRev or ECUTEK logs this sensor.

As usual when diagnosing Rev match problems, I bet your clutch pedal top switch just needs adjustment after all the changes. This switch is what decides when to engage rev match (when rev match is turned on), and if this switch position isnt double checked and adjusted as necessary, rev match will go down with changes that effect the pedal position, which can happen with changes to the hydraulic system.

Being that the CSC was replaced I'd take a look at the input shaft VSS sensor on the trans and the Gear position sensor on the transmission to make sure wiring is intact and sensors are not broken.
Other than this and confirming CPP is working it should be working.

For the OP, after such events and multiple clutch pedal presses vibration is your enemy.

yes, my CC has gone out twice & both times it was one that silicone/plastic plugs that activate the switches that disintegrated. there is one on the clutch pedal to deactivate CC when the pedal is depressed & if it's missing the CC system thinks the clutch is in all the time. since you replaced the clutch pedal assy with an a/m unit that may be the cause of that. The brake pedal has two of the silicone plugs one to turn on brake lights & one to cancel CC.

sorry, don't know about the s-mode problem.

on the not reving when moving the shifter to the left you may have to do the gear position sensor relear procedure in the fsm