That's not enough. Need to do 20 to 30min in the cold with some mild pulls. It sounds like you need to upgrade your diff to a Quaiffe, Wavetrac, or a OS Giken. That will help with it stepping out. You won't get the one wheel spinning problem. That's when it can get crazy.

Hate to say it. For you, it's scary. But that's when I start to grin when it starts to go sideways. :driving: That's the difference in experience.

That was due to the Viscous LSD. Notice how the left wheel spun and then the right one went to spinning. That's what it does.

YeeHawwww.... Ride'em cowboy. LOL

:driving:

You don't answer the question we ask with any detail. If you want help answer the questions. So you have PSSs, what is the tread depth left on them and how old are they? When you say cold, what is cold? I live in AZ and if it is 70 or below it's cold to most here in the state. You need to drive around for at least 20 minutes at highway speed 60 mph or more. Anything more than 34 psi is too much.

How is your alignment? Does it want to pull one way or another at 60 mph? Can you let go of the wheel at 60 mph and the car will go in a straight line? If you have done all of these things then the car is fine....park it and buy a Miata until you learn how to drive and control a tail happy vehicle.

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So, when I am in my race car (which is the equivalent of what you have now), I get a warm-up lap before forming up on the grid.

If you've watched SuperCars or AUS GT on the tele, you will see really abrupt steering inputs weaving side to side and on the gas then hard on the brakes repeatedly in 2nd gear to get heat into the brakes which soaks very quickly into the wheel and then the tyre.

This heat is what gives grip

Any road tyre construction/compound is designed to dissipate heat because heat kills tyre life. So - regardless of your tyre selection, UNLESS you have 100 or 80 TWI where the compromise is reversed because the tyre maker is biasing heavily towards grip and not tyre life, you will be grip limited and getting heat into one of these tyres can take 10 minutes of hard work.

Even the PSS is only a uber-premium road tyre and "not really" that sticky.

Stickey is an ADVAN A050 or DZ03G or R888 and they need a warm-up procedure like I have described AND they will be licky to give you 1000km life being used on the road before they turn to battery cases due to heat cycles.

To generate some heat and therefore grip, emulate pukka race drivers - but I have to tell you that doing this on a public road - even a quiet industrial estate - will be a cop-magnet and I suspect that SAPOL have similar nanny-state rule to Vic and if they deem you are "hooning", then you car gets a 30-day holiday and maybe a canary defect notice to be put back to standard.

A 500+hp and 1400kg car with effectively an open diff (VLSD is a PoS) will always step sideways when it breaks loose so this needs attention soon (more expense).

You need some driver coaching I reckon AND a decent diff - without getting equal torque to both rear wheels you are going to have continuing problems.

Talk to someone in a CAMS affiliated car club about driver training - or call Naomi Maltby at Sporting Car Club of SA to find out what they do

The other thing is to make sure your front and rear alignments are in spec AND tyre pressures are around 32-34psi.

Finally the 370Z gets quite a lot of camber gain in squat which can mean that all your torque gets transmitted to the road thru the inside half of the tyre, but now we are into a whole different world of suspension tuning which if carried to its logical extreme will make the car a pig to drive ....... heavier sprints is the brute force solution but shocks that can be stiffened up so slow-speed bump and softer for high speed bump are the optimum (but figure these at 2K per corner)

You are in the process of learning the expensive lesson of double the torque in an OEM chassis simply requires more changes and expense. to make it liveable

I've seen guys in Vic tip mega money into their Z34 and out the end of it, realised they could have purchased a 4-6 yo GTR and had a better car.

I have a PM in my archive somewhere, where I cautioned against FI because the initial investment is less than half that which is required to make it work properly.

So - think about driver training (which won't be cheap BTW - consumeables are exactly that - and you chew thru them at a fair rate).

I think I am now done on this thread

Agree, I am done also.

You will stick around just for the :drama:

I hope for no drama and we do not have another casualty.

Shadow needs to play some Forza

Agreed!!!

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:iagree:

I didn't realise you don't have a proper LSD. I think it's a must for a boosted Z. I bet this has more to do with you getting so sideways with the power you now have.

VDC off I almost crashed!!
 

He has a Quaife. It’s listed in the first post.

Spooler optimizer, and BG, I already have a quaiffe diff installed at the time of the TT install.
I also have:
Whiteline diff bushing kit
Z1 Urethane motor/trans mounts
Z1 subframe bushing collar kit
Eibach swaybar kit (on the softest setting)
Eibach lowering springs
SPC front camber arms

I would have hopes to have good traction, but yes that is still a far fetched desire for my setup.

So BG you rekon that R888R will only last 1000kms, there are some people who rekon they have lasted them 10000km. To me that would be bearable, but not 1000km.

OK.
I have gathered from this thread so far
1. Learn the car better, practise
2. Stickier tyres
3. More suspension mods?

Anything I forgot here?
Also, does anyone here use Ecutek traction control on the-fly?