Help me solve after tune mystery
 

Hi all :tiphat:, been dealing with Christmas tree and other problems for past few months with no luck. Cant fined similar issues here on forum so if some one know where to look please point me there.

So, right after N/A Ecutek tune ABS, Traction 1, Hand Brake, Key lights on dash stays on. Tuner told me it will go off i just need to drive for a little while. Light did go off after a while for about 10min but then came back on and its been on ever sins than about 2 months now.

ABS and Traction system dont work at all unless codes are cleared and if cleared light coming back on in about 10~20 minutes of driving.

Speedometer stopped working right after the tune as well but when codes are cleared it would work normal until tree light are on. (not the case any more if codes cleared it stays not working)

All dash light would go off and car would drive normal and speedometer will read speed for about 3 minutes if accelerated hard with some tire spin
This happens time to time. Feels like computer is resetting by it self because TPMS light on dash starts to bling like if i would just started the car.

Computer was reading random codes at the beginning now its stable at this:
ECM:
P0500 Speed sensor A
P219B

HVAC ABS:
C1115
C1109

HVAC 2:
B2205

BCM:
U0415 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock system
C1729

Car would start normal with one touch of the ignition button but to shut it off there is a sequence, 3 times to shut the engine and ignition would go in to "ACC" mode than wait press one more time ignition would go in to "ON mode" than wait and press it one more time to turn off all electronics.
Before clearing codes would make it shut off normal in one touch but not any more.

When check engine light is one it would blink time to time while driving at high rpm and car would lost power. Could not accelerate until RPM is down by 1k
When codes are clear under semi hard acceleration Traction 2 light would blink like im spinning tires (but im not) and kill power at 3ed gear 5500RPM and power will not come back until 4500rpm, 4th gear loss of power at 4500rpm back at 3800rpm, 5th gear same as 4th. When this happens traction light 2 would blink only if i try to accelerate.

When codes are on and tree is on car would accelerate normally and go beyond 6k rpm with lots of power and no issues.

Modes installed that may have to do something:
GTR plenum
GTR injectors
Os Giken tween (was installed/driven before tune)
Quaife differential (was installed/driven before tune)
Tires F 255/40/18 R 295/40/18 (did not give me problems before tune for 10K+)

Also i did connected throttle bodies in wrong position L side and R side and started the car this was before tune, did see TB circuit code but it was not there when throttles was connected right way.


If i missing something ill writing up later but i think thats about as clear as i can describe problems that happening now.
Any help would be highly appreciated, thanks for looking/replying! :tiphat:

Sounds like one (or more) of your wheel speed sensors is out of adjustment or bad.

Edit: Check diameter/circumference of the tires and make sure difference is in spec.

Difference in tires are sligtly more than normal at 4.3%
But i have those tires for over 10k miles installed way before the tune and everything was normal.

Soon as i get open end lug nuts i will test with OEM wheels/tiers

Thanks for reply

What was your resolution? Dealing with this code intermittently c1115

Z-Runner...

I am running into the same issues... Did you ever find a fix?

Please help..... and post your findings.

Does anyone have any updates?

Hello All,

I just read another post where someone swapped wheels and had issues with the speedo.

I have 20" wheels and recently had one wheel crack. Thus I put on a spare set of 18" 35 anniversary 350z wheels on very low tires on front. These wheels\ tires are much smaller that the 20" wheels\ tires. I would say 2" or more smaller. Could the be the cause?

Yep, sure could.

I really hope this is the case. I'm sending out the wheel for repair this week.

Did it start happening when you did the wheel change?

as a matter of fact yes... I am really hoping this is the cause.

Most likely that's the issue

I had the ecu reset by a shop at a cost .. Is there a way to reset the ecu without a shop?

I have an ebay ODBII blue tooth ... nothing special but the codes for the ABS didn't show up on my reader only the shop's reader.

Any difference greater than 3% front to rear in tire height will light up the Christmas tree on the dash.

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but you should be able to disconnect the negative barrety terminal, wait a short amount of time and reconnect it. That should do a reset

Instead of waiting, one can press on the brake pedal for a second or two.

Engine may run a little rough for a few minutes while the ECM relearns the engine. Will have to go through several drive cycles before emissions system will report as ready.