Broken magnetic oil plug
 

So I was changing my oil today, and when putting back the cheap magnetic oil plug I got from amazon, it broke, and the magnetic piece immediately attached to something inside the oil pan (it made a "clank" sound). How bad is it?

Can I leave it there? Do I have to remove the oil pan to remove it? And if so, what tools do I need to remove it, couldn't find a DIY for removal.

You might get lucky and it will stay stuck forever. Then again, it might come loose at any time. I'd try to fish it out (a stronger magnet on a gooseneck?); if unsuccessful, I'd pull the pan.

The FSM has procedures to R&R the pan. Unfortunately, it is getting difficult to find a copy.

Well since the oil pan is steel, I don't suspect that the magnet will be going anywhere. Can you not reach in with your pinky finger and try to maneuver it toward the drain plug hole so that you could grab it with a pair of needle-nose pliers? Removing the oil pan is a bit of a PITA, but folks have done it to install oil pan spacers. Removal and installation instructions can be found in the FSM. There's also a couple of YouTube videos floating around showing how to do it on either a Z or G37. Google it.

Found the procedure on the FSM. I'll have to get some Ultra Grey (by walking to the store, 5 f...g miles). Like, isn't there a filter on the oil pump that would prevent the magnet to pass? I'm so pissed, a 10 min oil change will become hours changing the damn oil pan. Stupid amazon magnetic plug.

You could use a borescope (cheap on amazon), locate it and try to fish it out with another magnet on a gooseneck (like mentioned above) or with a bent piece of stiff wire.

After 4 hours of struggle, oil pan is still there. That sealant must be made of God's boogers. How do people even take it off? Seriously questioning some life decisions right now...

I saw a video on the installation of an oil pan spacer. When he removed the oil pan he had to go around the entire pan with a putty knife between the pan and block and cut through the sealant to break the pan loose.

This happens more often than reported. Mine was discovered bent and cracked just before it was to be put back on. Magnetic plugs don't lasts and should be replaced probably every 2 yrs. Many just leave it and not worry about it.

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...oto-log-9.html Post 325

I would have used the negative side of a large magnet to move it close to the drain hole.

If left in place it shouldn't be going anywhere since it's magnetized, and besides the oil pickup screen would screened it out.

The last thing I'd want to do is drop the pan, But thats me :ugh2:

If you are still trying to remove the pan. Use a putty knife and hammer. Tap the putty between the pan and the lower case. Start in one spot and work around. After you get the pan off. Clean up the surfaces. If you find any raised spots from the putty knife. You can use a file to file down the areas. Just be careful.

:iagree:

There is no screen in the oil pick-up. Just a funny looking narrow slit in a half of a ball welded to a tube. ;)

Wow! I just assumed there would be one to screen out metal material.

Thanks for the clarity.

Found a couple of pictures from when I installed the AM Perf. pan.

Found a clear image and as I suspected they do indeed have a screen.

I thought I was going crazy on how Nissan would not have one.

https://conceptzperformance.com/item...l/strainer.jpg

https://conceptzperformance.com/niss...0a_p_17159.php

Back to the original topic!

My modified AM Perf pick up doesn't have the screen. :confused: Looked at my old stock one this morning. It has a screen. :confused:

my plug seems to be aluminum billet, is it aluminum or steel plug that cracked.

AM = AAM? They sent a modified one for a spacer? My pan came with a pickup spacer to install... no idea what would be better. Probably en elongated one since you cant seal those joints with RTV.

As far as the debate on removing the pan - I use a set of plastic chisels I got from harbor freight (purposefully just for this task). just tap them in with a hammer to loosen the pan.

Also make sure you look VERY closely for all the fasteners.. one of them is kind of hidden behind the cross brace.

Anyway I think the safest bet would be to remove whatever is left in there. Dragging it through the hole is not possible because the piece of magnet is attached to the threads of the bolt, which won't let it pass the hole. I'll give it one more try today for the pan, let's see how it goes.

AM Perf. Race car team. No longer in business. Remember Shamu? I got his race pan just before he sold the Z. AM Perf made about 20 pans at that time. It's similar to phunk's oil pan with the hinged baffles.

I had an AAM pan spacer before the AM Perf oil pan. Yeah, the spacer used the stock pick up with a spacer. The AM Perf oil pan uses a modified pick up.

gorgeous piece. Would feel apprehensive putting it on my car and not on my mantel.

It's a work of art. All billet cnc machined. AM Perf was selling them for about $1,200 at that time. I got it after Shamu rolled his Z at a race.

I took down the whole thing. Ended up being easier than expected once I moved the sway bar out of the way. I'll have to wait 24 hours to cure the Ultra Grey, hopefully there wont be any leaks tomorrow when I put the new oil.

https://i.imgur.com/kUFU0wD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mdgLUd1.jpg

I can see now why you had to get the stub out, that piece with the aluminum thread on it wouldn't be able to solidly stick to the metal pan. Good call on your part.

Looking at all those cavities made by the oil pan design reminds me why I always slightly jack up my car on one side when I change the oil, quite a bit (for my OCD self) comes out that wouldn't otherwise drain if the pan were left level.