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Happened overtime
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That's why you do a dry and wet compression test. If an engine has sat or fuel has washed the rings out etc as squirt of oil through the spark plug holes and a retest will give a more realistic result.
Personally although it takes longer a leak down test will give a more accurate representation of an engines condition and how it will run. I've personally seen at least 3 engines that will pass a compression test yet have a misfire at idle due to valve leakage. Off idle the pistons move fast enough to not have a mis and will still build enough to pass a compression test but at idle it will still have a mis. |
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My luck is never ending with this car
So did a cold compression test and here are the results Cold motor Cylinder 1 - 165psi Cylinder 2 - 160psi Cylinder 3- 168 psi Cylinder 4 - 165psi Cylinder 5 - 162psi Cylinder 6 - 170psi So i ran the car and pulled it out of the garage Because i wanted to do a warm comp test to compare. The cold readings seemed low/ and wanted to try a different gauge. So anyway as the rpms dropped to about 800. The car just shut off and now i cant even get ignition to turn on. The dash shows both fob key lights, first thought steering wheel lock. Nope, been there done that the fuse is already pulled. Now i dont know what to do. Thoughts? |
Both key fob lights? Meaning no fob detected?
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Thats correct
http://www.the370z.com/members/jmroy...1-img-4470.jpg Quote:
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Also to give you some relief, I had similar results using a harbor freight compression test kit so don't worry a lot about the numbers but just how close they are to each other.
Good luck! |
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