Nissan 370Z Forum - Oil Cooler - Is it really necessary?

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- - Oil Cooler - Is it really necessary? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/125342-oil-cooler-really-necessary.html)

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Originally Posted by sirnixalot (Post 3721686)

:tup:Thanks Rusty

:tiphat:

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Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3721601)

Nice write up. But in a month or so. Someone will asked the question again. :rofl2: Well..........are you going to get a cooler or not?

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Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3721769)

Is that a selfie?

Feel like it...

hi guys i ordered a 25 row from z1 thermo sandwich plate. My z is a 2015 . Will there need to be any additional items / customization in order to get it installed? Is it going to be as easy as mounting and switching out sandwich plate and connect the lines ?

Edit: Came across SPAL fan and electronic thermostat.. was wanting it add it to the 25 row for extra protection since i live in cali . and in the summer is sauna hot you feel me .. has anyone added that to you cooler ?

What you ordered should be a kit, everything is there to install. Instructions are on the website and youtube. Sorry, can't help with the fan.

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Originally Posted by Erob (Post 3722155)

What you ordered should be a kit, everything is there to install. Instructions are on the website and youtube. Sorry, can't help with the fan.

yes it was the kit .. so when connecting the thermo plate do i just put it over the oem plate ?

My Z is a 2010 and did not come from the factory with an OEM oil cooler. Sorry but I can't help with on yours but I'm sure someone here knows for certain.

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Originally Posted by nosam1g (Post 3722182)

yes it was the kit .. so when connecting the thermo plate do i just put it over the oem plate ?

No, you remove that factory oil heater. You will need to buy a kit that has everything in it to remove it. I have done 2 cars like this, 2012 and 2013 Nismo's. Fast Intentions has a kit that has everything you need to take it off the car.

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Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3722304)

lol im so confused so you need a kit to take off the oem oil cooler ? i was told it was a air to oil cooler ? I bought the 25 row thermo kit from z1.. so i just take off the oem sanwich plate and put on the thermo ? does anyone know how to do it on 2015 z ?

i have this one https://conceptzperformance.com/z1-m...34_p_14044.php

edit: added picture .. from a 2014 z.. looks like they used a stillen cooler and its connected over the oem one? so im guessing it will work?

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Originally Posted by nosam1g (Post 3722306)

Who told you that? I think I've pretty much answered your questions over PM.... I'll paste it here and others can fill in gaps if there are any. You don't really need a kit to delete the OEM cooler.. you just need an oil filter stud from an 09-11 model and two caps for the coolant lines (auto parts store). I deleted mine for a while.

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Originally Posted by Jayhovah

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Originally Posted by nosam1g

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Originally Posted by Jayhovah

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Originally Posted by nosam1g

Hello , you responded to one of my posts .. and i was wondering if you could respond to this

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Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3721338)

re: Bogging
Did you perform the TB reset? This needs to be done after cleaning

re: Temps
When you say "my car gets a lot hotter" are you looking at the oil temp or pulling the actual coolant temp from an aftermarket gauge or OBDII? 220 is very common for cars running only the OEM '12+ oil cooler as it regulates oil temp with coolant. It is possible you need to burp your coolant system if you think its running slightly hot.

no more bogging .. did the ecu reset relearn..

noticed my car running hotter because right now in cali its usually 60-80 degrees.. and in the summer its 90+ and would get to 220. Now that it is cold i was not expecting my oil temp to be 220. Yes sorry my coolant temp is always where it should be. In stop and go traffic i gets up to 220 easily .. sorry im still learning this car. On highway its at 200

i also have no oil cooler installed .. 2015 17k miles
i ordered a z1 25 row thermostatic

Are you sure this is out of the ordinary? Or just not what you expected?

It sounds completely normal to me... your '15 has a water/oil cooler from the factory so your oil is cooled by the coolant which is over 200F. Your coolant is hotter in stop/go traffic so your oil will be as well. Cruising at a reasonable speed it should be lower... cruising at a high speed should exercise the motor enough that you start to see the oil temp rise again.

When you add the Z1 air/oil cooler you may consider removing the OEM oil cooler as it will kind of be working against the air cooler in some cases.. If so, you'll need to get an oil filter stud for the '09-'11 model years and you can just cap the coolant lines that go to the OEM oil cooler.

Hope this helps!
Jay

Oh i do have one ? Is it the one in front of the radiator condenser ? .. Well crap i already received my 25 row lol.

ugh i thought all the models have been the same . I bought the 25 setrab thermo sandwich plate with protective lines. So basically the bolt where you screw on your oil filter will be needed for the cooler to work ?

The little one in front of the radiator is your power steering cooler. The OEM oil cooler uses the engine coolant to keep the oil temp down, and it looks like a big sandwich plate between the motor and oil filter and has two coolant lines running to it. You may want to pose the question to the community whether it is worth removing or not when adding an air cooler... I personally am not running any kind of additional air cooler for my oil, only the OEM water cooler.

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Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3722383)

ok .. now my questions are , do you need the oil filter stud , and do you need to cap the coolant lines.. or can everything still run ?

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Originally Posted by nosam1g (Post 3722447)

ok .. now my questions are , do you need the oil filter stud , and do you need to cap the coolant lines.. or can everything still run ?

If you do not delete the OEM oil/water cooler, then you do not need those things.

If you do delete it, you will need the oil filter stud from an '09-11 model and either caps for the coolant lines, or a hose to connect them together.

BE CAREFUL with your torque if replacing the oil filter stud. You are threading a large steel stud into an aluminum block, so it will be easy to over torque. Make sure you look up the spec in the factory service manual and use a torque wrench.

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Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3722452)

cool got it .. will there be any stress on running the oem cooler and z1 cooler , or anything to customize?