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-   -   Oil Cooler - Is it really necessary? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/125342-oil-cooler-really-necessary.html)

nosam1g 01-16-2018 12:09 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3722304)
No, you remove that factory oil heater. You will need to buy a kit that has everything in it to remove it. I have done 2 cars like this, 2012 and 2013 Nismo's. Fast Intentions has a kit that has everything you need to take it off the car.

lol im so confused so you need a kit to take off the oem oil cooler ? i was told it was a air to oil cooler ? I bought the 25 row thermo kit from z1.. so i just take off the oem sanwich plate and put on the thermo ? does anyone know how to do it on 2015 z ?

i have this one https://conceptzperformance.com/z1-m...34_p_14044.php

edit: added picture .. from a 2014 z.. looks like they used a stillen cooler and its connected over the oem one? so im guessing it will work?

Jayhovah 01-16-2018 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nosam1g (Post 3722306)
lol im so confused so you need a kit to take off the oem oil cooler ? i was told it was a air to oil cooler ? I bought the 25 row thermo kit from z1.. so i just take off the oem sanwich plate and put on the thermo ? does anyone know how to do it on 2015 z ?

i have this one https://conceptzperformance.com/z1-m...34_p_14044.php

edit: added picture .. from a 2014 z.. looks like they used a stillen cooler and its connected over the oem one? so im guessing it will work?

Who told you that? I think I've pretty much answered your questions over PM.... I'll paste it here and others can fill in gaps if there are any. You don't really need a kit to delete the OEM cooler.. you just need an oil filter stud from an 09-11 model and two caps for the coolant lines (auto parts store). I deleted mine for a while.

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Originally Posted by Jayhovah
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Originally Posted by nosam1g
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Originally Posted by Jayhovah
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Originally Posted by nosam1g
Hello , you responded to one of my posts .. and i was wondering if you could respond to this

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3721338)
re: Bogging
Did you perform the TB reset? This needs to be done after cleaning

re: Temps
When you say "my car gets a lot hotter" are you looking at the oil temp or pulling the actual coolant temp from an aftermarket gauge or OBDII? 220 is very common for cars running only the OEM '12+ oil cooler as it regulates oil temp with coolant. It is possible you need to burp your coolant system if you think its running slightly hot.

no more bogging .. did the ecu reset relearn..

noticed my car running hotter because right now in cali its usually 60-80 degrees.. and in the summer its 90+ and would get to 220. Now that it is cold i was not expecting my oil temp to be 220. Yes sorry my coolant temp is always where it should be. In stop and go traffic i gets up to 220 easily .. sorry im still learning this car. On highway its at 200

i also have no oil cooler installed .. 2015 17k miles
i ordered a z1 25 row thermostatic

Are you sure this is out of the ordinary? Or just not what you expected?

It sounds completely normal to me... your '15 has a water/oil cooler from the factory so your oil is cooled by the coolant which is over 200F. Your coolant is hotter in stop/go traffic so your oil will be as well. Cruising at a reasonable speed it should be lower... cruising at a high speed should exercise the motor enough that you start to see the oil temp rise again.

When you add the Z1 air/oil cooler you may consider removing the OEM oil cooler as it will kind of be working against the air cooler in some cases.. If so, you'll need to get an oil filter stud for the '09-'11 model years and you can just cap the coolant lines that go to the OEM oil cooler.

Hope this helps!
Jay

Oh i do have one ? Is it the one in front of the radiator condenser ? .. Well crap i already received my 25 row lol.

ugh i thought all the models have been the same . I bought the 25 setrab thermo sandwich plate with protective lines. So basically the bolt where you screw on your oil filter will be needed for the cooler to work ?

The little one in front of the radiator is your power steering cooler. The OEM oil cooler uses the engine coolant to keep the oil temp down, and it looks like a big sandwich plate between the motor and oil filter and has two coolant lines running to it. You may want to pose the question to the community whether it is worth removing or not when adding an air cooler... I personally am not running any kind of additional air cooler for my oil, only the OEM water cooler.


nosam1g 01-16-2018 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3722383)
Who told you that? I think I've pretty much answered your questions over PM.... I'll paste it here and others can fill in gaps if there are any. You don't really need a kit to delete the OEM cooler.. you just need an oil filter stud from an 09-11 model and two caps for the coolant lines (auto parts store). I deleted mine for a while.

ok .. now my questions are , do you need the oil filter stud , and do you need to cap the coolant lines.. or can everything still run ?

Jayhovah 01-16-2018 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nosam1g (Post 3722447)
ok .. now my questions are , do you need the oil filter stud , and do you need to cap the coolant lines.. or can everything still run ?

If you do not delete the OEM oil/water cooler, then you do not need those things.

If you do delete it, you will need the oil filter stud from an '09-11 model and either caps for the coolant lines, or a hose to connect them together.

BE CAREFUL with your torque if replacing the oil filter stud. You are threading a large steel stud into an aluminum block, so it will be easy to over torque. Make sure you look up the spec in the factory service manual and use a torque wrench.

nosam1g 01-17-2018 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3722452)
If you do not delete the OEM oil/water cooler, then you do not need those things.

If you do delete it, you will need the oil filter stud from an '09-11 model and either caps for the coolant lines, or a hose to connect them together.

BE CAREFUL with your torque if replacing the oil filter stud. You are threading a large steel stud into an aluminum block, so it will be easy to over torque. Make sure you look up the spec in the factory service manual and use a torque wrench.

cool got it .. will there be any stress on running the oem cooler and z1 cooler , or anything to customize?

Erob 01-17-2018 07:19 AM

All of this talk about deletin' and torquin' and cappin' has made me a nervous wreck. Makes me glad mine is a 2010 w/o an OEM oil cooler!!! :rofl2:

Hotrodz 01-17-2018 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erob (Post 3722573)
All of this talk about deletin' and torquin' and cappin' has made me a nervous wreck. Makes me glad mine is a 2010 w/o an OEM oil cooler!!! :rofl2:

You did good...right year, right color...wrong transmission!:stirthepot:

Erob 01-17-2018 09:43 AM

Yeah, Yeah... I hear ya. ;)

nosam1g 01-18-2018 02:16 AM

sorry for all the confusion i was really just trying to ask if i can basically bolt on the z1 kit to my 2015 with no customizing... just mount cooler/lines/sandwich plate , and bam ready to go 180 degrees oil ^^

filip00 03-21-2022 05:50 PM

Resurrecting this thread....is there anyone from Europe here that can suggest an oil cooler to order? I'm looking at ordering a 25 row, or a 34 row thermostatic one...
Most of the manufacturers either don't ship to Europe or charge it quite a lot, so I'm looking into options already in europe. Mishimoto has one for sale, but it's just 19 row. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

Hotrodz 03-21-2022 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by filip00 (Post 4022152)
Resurrecting this thread....is there anyone from Europe here that can suggest an oil cooler to order? I'm looking at ordering a 25 row, or a 34 row thermostatic one...
Most of the manufacturers either don't ship to Europe or charge it quite a lot, so I'm looking into options already in europe. Mishimoto has one for sail, but it's just 19 row. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

I believe both CZP (Concept Z) and Z1 both will send out of country.

Tractionless 03-23-2022 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by filip00 (Post 4022152)
Resurrecting this thread....is there anyone from Europe here that can suggest an oil cooler to order? I'm looking at ordering a 25 row, or a 34 row thermostatic one...
Most of the manufacturers either don't ship to Europe or charge it quite a lot, so I'm looking into options already in europe. Mishimoto has one for sale, but it's just 19 row. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

My 25 row has been reduced via plate to a 19 row and will still only get up to 160*F with a termostatic plate when cold in Florida. Never seen over 210* in dead heat of summer. If you live in a cold region and not tracking I don't see any reason to get larger than a 19 row. Mine is a Setrab.

I bought used for a known good engine, surely another enthusiast would gladly help you out with actual shipping costs and not try to make additional profit as businesses do.

Red Voodoo 03-25-2022 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tractionless (Post 4022258)
My 25 row has been reduced via plate to a 19 row and will still only get up to 160*F with a termostatic plate when cold in Florida. Never seen over 210* in dead heat of summer.

While we're on that subject, I've noticed the same characteristics with my 34-row thermostatic cooler (sans a thermo-plate). On a cool morning with 40*F - 60*F outside temps, I'll be hard pressed to get my oil gauge over 160*F when maintaining a steady speed in high gear (like on a freeway). Stop and go driving in traffic and on surface streets will usually get the temp up to near the optimal 180*F and will hold there unless I stay at an increased speed for too long, when it will begin to drop. I haven't taken the car on any spirited runs yet this year, but the highest I've seen the gauge go is about 200*F in traffic with outside temperatures in the mid-70s. At these running temperatures, I'm not concerned about over-cooling the oil, since I understand the internals of the motor can run ~75*F hotter than the sump, therefore allowing the oil to hit that critical temperature mark before falling back into the pan. Running the recommended synthetic oil with 5,000 mile change intervals will likely be sufficient unless my current driving patterns change (read: car mainly used for short trips).

Is it necessary to have an oil cooler? It's all going to come down to the use and location of the vehicle. Track and race applications seem to demand it. Extreme hot climates will likely benefit from one as well. I used to run in the 220*F - 230*F range without the cooler in a casual commute. It wasn't until I creeped over 245*F during a mountain run last summer that I even considered investing in a cooler. I'm happy with my investment.

Tractionless 04-02-2022 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Voodoo (Post 4022395)
It wasn't until I creeped over 245*F during a mountain run last summer that I even considered investing in a cooler. I'm happy with my investment.

240* in Florida summer during a highway trip cruising at 80mph did it for me.

I've read +20* internally but in any event I'm still comfortable with my temps. plus as high at the 75* you mentioned. For what it's worth the ECU uses the data supplied to the OE oil temp gauge for limp mode so the engineers must be comfortable with the internal temp. delta.


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