Just did. :inoutroflpuke:

Joking aside, do tell your experience.

A quick google search and looks like more Snake oil.

No thanks, don't believe in additives not engineered to be in the formula to begin with. The claim is it is a generic fiction reducing coating on sliding parts which really isn't the same thing as what ester oil is for. The theory of esters is they bond at a molecular level with a pos and neg charge. If you were really concerned about it only being a friction reducer you can just buy a high grade synth oil made for flat tapet cams (has a high zinc content).

Personally I use amsoil which is a POA base synth but have heard it has esters and have heard it doesn't so don't know who to believe but have used amsoil forever with no issues and always ranks among the top. If really concerned about the ester oil then redline and Motul both make an ester based synthetic. Nissans is a conventional oil with esters added I believe so not as good as a high grade iv or v synth.

Pros and cons to both, supposedly the esters don't do as well if on a longer service interval as the POA.

Can go to bobistheoilguy and get lost for hours with tons of good info.

You do know it WAS NOT me who suggested Motorkote? I fully agree with what you have said.

Yea my mistake I realized after typing it all. Figured people would know who I meant.

we use Mobil one full syn 5-30.

it is definitely not the vvel based on the condition it occurs as stated in the original posts.

You guys don't know about a one of a kind product .....so you start badmouthing it? I have a Doctorate in Chemistry......do you???????

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIEZ58wnUyM

its not an additive really, you add it to your oil but it blends with metal not oil. they put it with oil and it still coated the metal while they added lucas oil additive to same oil and nothing doing. THIS STUFF DOES NOT STICK WITH OIL! it coats the metal.

and no you dont add it every oil change. every 4th oil change they say to add it again to have it work the best and for $20 you get like 10oz and you add 2oz of that stuff to every quart thats in the engine, it can also be used in the transmission and other parts. but there is also a 32oz bottle for $32, which is what i got. once the stuff is added its there, it will never come off unless some kind of cleaner is used. but they still say add it every 4th oil change, which means 4 oil changes before adding again, so it performs at its best.
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No offence meant, nor bad mouthing intended. I simply implied that it's "snake oil" .

I'm not a chemist, but I've been around the block a few times. Worked with Synthetic oils for over 25 years.

We've seen and heard it all. All sorts of advertisements, videos, blogs, etc etc etc.

From Slick 50, SynLube, Camguard, Zmax, to false advertisements by big oil that they are 100% synthetic. There is literally 1000's of threads on this topic.

They all say they coat the metal. So some or most of us have become Skeptical over the years.

No one has ever witness this miracle solution for themselves. ALL WORDS.

I fully respect your profession and your understanding of the chemistry. Its all great on paper, but without independent review and proof, it's just that, a piece of paper.

Good oil, with proper additives is all you'll ever need. Specially one that is engineered by the designers of the engine.

Sorry for the thread jack OP. My intentions was to see what oil you are running and that you are aware of the VVEL issue. It seems that you are and can say the noise is not from there.

Besides trying to get a higher Octane gas, I am out of suggestions for you.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

I used to use "Slick 50" in my Datsun 1600 (180B "worked" motor) back in the early 80's on advice from the mechanic who built the motor. (I think a Slick 50 sales rep did a job on him). It did seem to lubricate the motor better as the revs at idle went up and had to be adjusted. It was also claimed that if you lost oil pressure or your sump ran dry for some reason, it would allow the engine to keep running for some minute without damage! Luckily I never had to test that. :driving:

:iagree:

That is not an answer to the question that I asked...................

I don't know, nor will I pretend to know. If it works for you, and you have a scientific explanation for it, great.

I had a 1996 Nissan D21 4x4 pick-up truck with 310,000KM's (192,600 Miles) !!! It was recently in a car wreck and the Insurance company would not repair it due higher cost than vehicle.

I had that truck for 20 years. After the first 5000 km on Conventional oil, I switched to Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic. Changing every 5000km with new Nissan filter for 20 years

Never leaked oil, never burned oil, never made metal, and compression remained the same as day 1 !!!!! Looking inside, under the rocker cover....No sludge, just normal used oil color.

Was it the oil?? Don't know. Was it the engine quality? don't know. Trust me, I did not baby that engine as far as driving goes. Just changed the oil and regular maintenance.

However, it would be fair for me to say that my diligence with oil changes and use of a "Higher quality" oil, had something to do with it. No additives, no mystery. Not going to show proof, just my experience.

I'm sure Motorkote is a fine product, but personally, I think you are wasting money. Get REDLINE 5W30 if you want to spend more than Valvoline.

I think if you do the math, a quart of Valvoline and your Motorkote will probably be equal or more than a quart of REDLINE or Nissan Ester oil.

They have the same wizardry for Piston Airplane engines: Aviation - Camguard

They all say the same thing.

BTW, are you a glider pilot?

Just can not answer that can you ???????? And Yes I am a sailplane pilot........

I've never used Motorkote but their web site screams "snake oil." Found a link to request an "SDS", hoping it would be the same thing as an MSDS, but was sent to some kind of messaging page that made my malware protection squawk.