Z1 Finned Diff cover installed
 

Installed the 2 liter finned Z1 differential cover this weekend...not an easy task! Also installed Whiteline bushings while I had it out. I was shocked how heavy this diff is! It is a stout piece. The original fluid was nasty, burned and there isn't a lot there, and only with 32K on the clock. I have tracked the car some. I strongly recommend anyone tracking their car, honestly tracking or not, to make this modification. Nissan should have done this from the factory.

Getting the fluid filled bushing out of the cross member was not fun either, as you can see from the shape of the bushing after removal.

Feel much better about the diff life now and it has an extra port if you want to add a pump and cooler.

Any pro-tip's you can provide? My cover and energy bushings are waiting to go in this holiday season.

A few tips.
1 - remove the exhaust and various struts, sway bar etc..makes it much easier to remove the diff
2 - You want a power saw at a minimum to saw through the shell of the rear main fluid filled bushing..also be prepared to get squirted when you drill the first hole in it and subsequent holes! I also used an air chisel which really made finishing the removal of the shell easier but not absolutely necessary
3. Fill the diff back up in the bench before you install it..easier than filling it once installed.
4. As the instructions note, freeze the vent tube overnight to shrink it a bit to ease install..use a pin punch to gently tap it into the cover
5. after trying to install the diff (by myself..not fun) having the rear bushing installed and trying to press it into the cross member..I took it off and pressed it in and then installed the diff..easier to stab the mounting stud than with it mounted.
6. Have a friend help if you are using a floor jack to lower and put back..as I noted that diff is heavy!

tips
 

here is the rear bushing I mentioned...press it in first..easier than trying to hold the diff and try pressing it in at the same time. Also. I had to use a very large breaker bar to break the nut loose on the rear bushing stud.

when cutting the outter shell of the OEM bushing - did you use a sawzall style saw? Is there any worry about sawing through the shell and damaging the subframe?

Thanks for the help. Not really looking forward to this job.

I did use a sawzall. I have a Milwaukee portable one. I used a wood blade to help cut the rubber part along with lots of drilling. Then I used a metal cutting blade on the shell. it is fairly thick but just go slow and you won't damage the sub frame. The ring on the sub frame is a lot thicker than the shell of the bushing. One last thing, you have to drive the bushing out towards the rear as it has a lip on it.

Any sort of lube on the bushing when pressing it in?

I'd love to get a cover like that but there is no way with the motordyne exhaust I'd have tolerance for it. It is so close to the OEM cover I can't get a floor jack underneath ear the differ to lift the rear end!

bushing lube
 

Whiteline supplies lubricant for the front bushing sleeves and for the rear bushing OD.

Just a follow-up since I posted this. Everything works fine and I can't detect any additional noise or vibration from the stiffer bushings..all in all very pleased!

I cheated and had Z1 do this while I was having them install the Quaife LSD. It does look cool and should prolong the life of the dif fluid. I have not noticed any difference with the Whiteline bushings either with NVH.

BTW: Love the Quaife!