No codes but something is def wrong!
 

Episodes of strong hesitation (like rapid, tiny fuel cut-offs under acceleration or even just cruising) and bad idle, accompanied by backfiring under deceleration. Engine light flashed then stayed on today, but getting "N/A" codes. Also, when it happens, I get a burnt smell coming from the vents even with the air off.

When I say "episodes' I mean that it can go for days without seeing symptoms or I can have symptoms for days. It's random, which makes me think it's electrical, but then it tends to increase with engine temp so I have no idea.

Where should I look?? Recommend any tests before I give up and take it to the shop??

Try cleaning your MAF sensors.

Dirty MAFs can cause all sorts of weird problems. Luckily, they are very easy and cheap to clean - the rawest weekend mechanic can do the job in less than thirty minutes and not get their hands dirty.

Edit: The N/A DTC is weird. You may have a CAN problem or need to reset the ECM.

Check you oil level also. If it is too high, it can cause major issues down the line.
I overfilled mine last year and the idle got so bad, that the ECM rest my idle to over 1100.
I had developed major foaming/bubbling in the oil. If this happens, the only thing you can do is drain the oil and refill. I let mine drain for a really long time. After I changed the oil, I had to pull the negative battery cable for 15 or 20 minutes, then reconnect.
The idle was so bad it sounded like it was running on 3 or 4 cylinders.

Do you happen to know how much you over filled the engine?

Just barely over the full mark.
When this happens, you can actually see small bubbles on the dipstick.
It is a progressive issue, meaning that it gets worse as time goes on and can severely damage the engine if not corrected.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor tomorrow.

BTW, I tried running the codes via bluetooth OBD2 and it gave me "P2a00," is that 02 sensor??

That's weird. I have overfilled mine by just a tad and I didn't have the issue that you said you had. I've seen cars overfilled by anywhere from 1 to 6 quarts here at work and they all ran rough. Just doesn't seem that overfilling it just a tad can cause the issue that you had seeing how oil will be in the oil galleries in the block, heads, oil returns and pan when the vehicle is running. Just saying.

Was your oil level at the H mark when cold?

No codes but something is def wrong!
 

It's when the oil gets up into the crank that the issue arises.

I had a crap load of bubbles when I drained it.

No problems since.

I think the level may have over H when cold. I honestly got sloppy about checking it.

I'd like to revamp my thread real quick. I'm still having the same issue intermittently. I took it to the shop twice and they have no idea what it is.

The mechanic did mentioned that it could be either my aftermarket intake or lack of backpressure (have deleted mufflers and a Takeda short ram air intake).

Could that be the cause? Thought I would check before trying to go back to stock intake.

To reiterate, it feels as though I have spurts of fuel cut off. It's as if the gas doesn't burn for a cycle or two and then ignites in the exhaust pipe (explains the loss of power and backfiring). All this happens randomly and on random days. Are ram intakes known to cause issues like this, or does the MAF need replacing...or something?

Take it to a different mechanic/shop. P2A00 (Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) is a one-sided problem. Unless you have a leak, intake or exhaust problems would affect both banks. Which leads me to suspect an intake leak.

It's easier to find out what's going on if you have a scan tool you can look at the short term fuel trim that's will tell you what the ecu is telling the motor to do(add or take away fuel) depending on if your running lean or rich. This should help eliminate a few variables

Actually shortly after getting the Bank 1 CEL, I got the Bank 2 as well... He said it was very unlikely that my cat is going bad at 50k. Does that help narrow it down?

By scan tool, do you mean OBD2? I use the Torque app although I'm not an expert at it.

I know you said the cats shouldn't be going out but are you sure it's not the sensor at the header? What is the code that was thrown? just wanna be positive we're talking about the same sensor.