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Recommended Oil coolers & questions
Currently in the market for an oil cooler.. Seeing the temp in the 220's touching 230 late at night on the freeway and 220s during some stop-and-go traffic during errand runs.. well worries me for some reason. You can say the only reason I'm in the market for one is for a peace of mind :icon14: . I guess its sort of like a pet peeve of mine, especially when my Ninja Zx6r touches 200 degrees cruising (it bothers me for some reason :mad:)
The car does see high revs often and short spirited runs, as well as the back roads quite a bit lately. Im located up in the Northern California and we have been seeing triple digits for a while; but knowing how winter comes by, it can get somewhat cold, no lesser than 32 degrees cold though. As a DD, I visit Reno often, about once every 3 months- and it was ugly cold and snowing when I last visited. 7AT 09 Could you pick your own mounting spot? Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)? Does the front bumper sit flush over it? How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines? Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it? How much cooling can these things do? In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour? Any companies offer warranty? Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines) Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me. Thanks in advance! nrgZ |
212F is the ideal temp for oil to be honest. And with modern synthetics they won't break down much even at 260F. But to answer your questions:
Could you pick your own mounting spot? Sure but why reinvent the wheel, use what people know works. Would these fit just fit w/ Stillen G3 intakes in the front (per mounting spot)? Yes, some minor cutting may be needed but only in places that will not be visible or effect anything. Does the front bumper sit flush over it? Yes How much more oil is needed to compensate for the oil sitting in the lines? Usually just under 1 qt more Is there a company that makes a cooler w/ a by-pass switch/valve to completely shut or at least somewhat close off some of the oil being passed?I only ask this just for the 'just in case' scenarios from when traveling to a colder climate that sees freezing temps None completely shut for good reasons I won't go into here. For colder weather a simple block off plate is effective and can be installed with a simple Velcro strip for easy removal. When you do an oil change, do these lines completely drain as well? Or could I have to disconnect them to train it? It' won't drain completely, but even in a normal system you never get all the oil out and it doesn't hurt anything. How much cooling can these things do? 34 row is good for simple forced induction builds 25 row is good for NA tracking 19 row is good for spirited street driving In terms of what possible temperatures can I be looking at cruising on the freeway for an hour? 180F Any companies offer warranty? As far as I know they just warrant their parts only Z1 and Stillen. Would there be any problems or retrofitting involved (such as removing, or moving a line or something along those..lines) Depends? Not clear on the question. Price isn't an issue; though I am not looking to spend 2-3x on something that will perform the same with a cheaper option. Not looking to upgrade after that as well (unless it breaks of course). It is looking to stay once it is mounted up. Car is going to be N/A for its life unless someone throws a free supercharger at me. I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with a Z1 cooler setrab 24row, Thermostatic kit. |
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Thank you for your reply and answering my questions, really appreciate it I was reading up on stillen's cooler.. It had mentioned somewhere that a fram filter is only used (unless i read too much and went onto something else). Would these kits be capable with KN Series filters? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Use either a Z1 for Fast Intentions oil cooler kit. They are the only ones worth having. Make sure you take off the factory oil stabilizer, it actually heats the oil and defeats the purpose of an external oil cooler.
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How are the oem coolers that come with the newer models? Would they fit an 09? (Direct bolt on)
A little concerned today about getting one now as this morning (430am) it was a chilly 55 degrees. Atleast chilly for me due to having dealt with triple digits for a few months and 80 degree mornings for a while.. Oil was showing 190 degrees for a 30 minute freeway commute with lots of 4th-7th gear changes. I feel like thats too cold? Please correct me if im wrong. I would like an ideal temp of 200-215 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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The factory cooler/stabilizer is a good feature, you dont really need to remove it unless you are seeking the lowest temp possible in any condition with very large external oil cooler.
It's purpose is bringing the oil and water temp close to each other. It can be called as cooler or heater depending on which side is hotter. During cold start, oil takes so much longer than water to reach its optimum temperature. Having this stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil heat up quicker for cold start by bringing oil and water temp close to each other.. During normal driving conditions, oil temp goes slightly higher than water temp. Having this stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil cool down by bringing oil and water temp close to each other. During hard driving conditions, oil temp shoots up so much higher than water in stock setup without external oil cooler. Again, stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil cool down by bringing oil and water temp close to each other. During normal driving conditions WITH large external oil cooler, it takes so much longer to heat up the oil to normal operating temperature due to rapid cooling. Again, stock cooler/stabilizer helps oil heat up quicker by bringing oil and water temp close to each other. The only time you are better off without the stock cooler/stabilizer is when you have a very large external oil cooler that can bring your oil temp lower than the water and you want to keep it that way for as long as possible - ie, full on race build where you dont care about warming up. its just like using low temp thermostat for water to keep the car cool as much as it can. Remember, low temp is not always the best. Keep the stock cooler/stabilizer, unless what you are looking for is small bit of weight reduction or have a very specific goal to achieve. |
The oil temperature gauge reads low with a cooler installed because it is measuring the temperature of the oil coming out of the cooler. This means your 190F oil temp is really around 210F. Also note that the ECU will start to pull timing as early as 230F. There's really no need to worry about your oil being too cold in California.
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Interesting info here, I have a '15 DD. Is it feasible to add an 19+ cooler to it?
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This was with no cooler. Im interested in a 19 as it seems like the smallest i can find that comes with a kit w/out building or retrofitting anything.. This morninf was 65degrees, ran about 195 and not over 200 for a 30 minute commute. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
If you are thinking about tracking in the future. A 34 row from Z1 or FI, end of story. If you are just DD. A 25 row would be your best bet.
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I just installed a 34 row from Z1 a couple weeks ago. 2014 Touring/Sport, essentially stock, my DD and autocross/HPDE warrior.
I left the stock oil to water cooler because I didn't have the non-cooler filter stud. If you leave the stock cooler, you will have a tough time getting the lines installed and the oil filter in place. There is very little room for the tiny stock filter with the Z1 cooler plate and the stock cooler plate installed; forget about putting a taller filter there. I am going to remove the stock cooler soon and bypass the coolant loop. I ran a track event in NC last weekend, with temps around 95 and ridiculous humidity. Oil temperature topped out around 230 during each 20 minute session, and quickly dropped to 180 after coming off track and turning the A/C on. I was trying to keep up with the C6s in the twisties and keep the STIs in the rearwiew, so I was not being easy on it at all:eekdance: |
Recommended Oil coolers & questions
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Im going to go ahead and bump this again; i currently have both z1 and stillens in my cart ready to buy.. After some more research i keep seeing people relocating something and drilling; which one of these provide a true bolt on with no relocating or drilling required? I have an 09 touring and looking for a 19 or 25 only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Just go the z1 and you will not be sorry. Stock oil filter size with many to choose from and a thermostatic plate. Very simple install. |
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I am installing the 19row for tranny and 34row for oil this weekend on a 2014 Touring Sport. From all of my pre-planning I only see me drilling for the mount brackets. No cutting. All my front mod parts were from Z1. Intake/Coolers They are very good to deal with and work with. Lot's of people like them from a lot of feedback you will see in forum. But you can go with "Name Plate" products too if you want bragging rights.... (Personally I liked the savings and can use that money on other "Name Plate" deserving mods that are seen without opening a hood.) |
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Don't know why it only loaded one but here is other
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I was going to have a fab shop make me an extended bracket to mount on passenger side. But if this worked better for you, then I might just go your route instead. I do wonder though.... If I paint mine before mounting, will it jack up the cooling? I have seen some guys with painted coolers around town. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk |
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You don't need a fab shop if you know how to use a drill and a counter sink. If you go Stillen AT and Z1/F.I. Cooler all you need to do is counter sink the Stillen plate where the holes are to mount to the rad support, then lay that plate on top of the setrab brack and drill through it where the Stillen plate matches (I think only 2 of the 3 holes line up but it's more than enough support). Then get yourself some flat toped tapered head screws and bolt the two plates together (you will want really short screws and thin nuts, I ground the nuts down to the same thickness as the z1 bolt heads that sit under the setrab plate). Now space the 34 row cooler up a little with washers to clear the Stillen plate then install both coolers and put in car. Works great, no need to relocate the power steering cooler in the other side to fit the AT cooler or anything else. I was going to fab my own bracket but then when I saw how easy it would be to combine both I just did that instead, easier than trying to use my buddies mill and finding material and no one will see it behind the bumper. |
Im curious when you guys have an oil cooler for the tranny.. Is this for 6mt only? Ive seen alot of 'coolers' for the liquids for the car; transmission, power steering.. Are these a must need for track? Im curious about the transmission fluid.. After driving for a while in both auto and manual mode i get this.. Thunk when it shifts from second to first gear when slowing down and shifting down by itself. Almost feels like a stall. There is also a clunk... I want to say at the driver side rear.
When i took it to the dealer for an oil change and there free 128 (or 126?) multi point inspection; they said everything was good! I know alot of cars run without ever touching there transmission fluid, im also curious how many miles should i push before a flush? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Is a cooler necessary? Maybe not but a Stillen at cooler is like 300.00 and a 7at trans is like 9k. So I do track my car so I give it every bit of protection I can, flushed trans at 35k with amsoil and installed cooler when I bought it and will probably to regular drain and fills every 30k after. |
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I have a 19row setrab for my 7a and the 34row for my oil I live in AZ I consider it cheap insurance.
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Just purchased a z1 19 row. Figured i might as well do an install now rather than procrastinate and never do it lol. It happens when i come to a complete stop. I have a ecutek etune thru SZ, and revs on the auto is higher per gear. It happens when im slowing down to a light or a stop. Happens on both man mode and auto. It sort of feels like my brakes grab suddenly then slows again. I did have pads and rotors replaced and break in was fine; dealer said everything is still straight but still couldnt find why it did that. I took the dealer mech in the passenger to show him what i meant; he couldnt figure it out.. All he did was recommend me for a full on full inspection which would run me alot of money.. But couldnt find the courage to do the inspection as i would worry that this could be "normal" when the temps are high. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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