Nissan 370Z Forum - P1233 Permanent Code

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)

- Engine & Drivetrain (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/)

- - P1233 Permanent Code (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/115488-p1233-permanent-code.html)

P1233 Permanent Code

This morning while driving to work and stopped at the lights idling, the idle went up to about 1000rpm by itself, the engine light and the (2) VDC lights came on and the car would not go faster then walking speed with no throttle control. I turned the engine off and on again and the car drove normally (engine light still on) until I came to a stop again and the same thing happened as above.
My work around is when I'm stopped I use a bit of accelerator to keep the revs up around 1000rpm and when I get going again it drives normally. If however I let the engine drop back to its normal idle (about 650rpm) the whole issue starts again.
I can clear the codes using a scan tool and things again behave as they should, but after about a minute the problem starts again and "DashCommand" now tells me that the P1233 code is permanent.
Some research tells me that code is related to the Electric Throttle Control Performance-Bank 2. Apparently this can be related to the following:
1/. A faulty Electric Throttle Control actuator.
2/. ETC actuator harness open or shorted.
3/. ETC actuator circuit poor electrical connection.
My car has the Stillen SC kit that I think uses an extended lead to connect one of the throttle bodies, but I believe Bank-2 refers to the OEM lead.

If anyone has any info/suggestions I would love to hear them. Thanks.
:(

Quote:

Originally Posted by Optimiser (Post 3520852)

This morning while driving to work and stopped at the lights idling, the idle went up to about 1000rpm by itself, the engine light and the (2) VDC lights came on and the car would not go faster then walking speed with no throttle control. I turned the engine off and on again and the car drove normally (engine light still on) until I came to a stop again and the same thing happened as above.
My work around is when I'm stopped I use a bit of accelerator to keep the revs up around 1000rpm and when I get going again it drives normally. If however I let the engine drop back to its normal idle (about 650rpm) the whole issue starts again.
I can clear the codes using a scan tool and things again behave as they should, but after about a minute the problem starts again and "DashCommand" now tells me that the P1233 code is permanent.
Some research tells me that code is related to the Electric Throttle Control Performance-Bank 2. Apparently this can be related to the following:
1/. A faulty Electric Throttle Control actuator.
2/. ETC actuator harness open or shorted.
3/. ETC actuator circuit poor electrical connection.
My car has the Stillen SC kit that I think uses and extended lead to connect one of the throttle bodies, but I believe Bank-2 refers to the OEM lead.

If anyone has any info/suggestions I would love to hear them. Thanks.
:(

Check continuity from the extension from the original OEM harness. A splice probably came loose from corrosion or weak link and the ECU isn't getting signal from the throttle body. Good luck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TechnicZ (Post 3520899)

Check continuity from the extension from the original OEM harness. A splice probably came loose from corrosion or weak link and the ECU isn't getting signal from the throttle body. Good luck.

Continuity doesn't really give you an accurate result, you are much better off back probing and checking for voltage drops and signals.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jhill (Post 3521258)

Continuity doesn't really give you an accurate result, you are much better off back probing and checking for voltage drops and signals.

One step at a time. Test the harness first before throwing parts at a vehicle. Take your time and do the tests to limit unnecessary repairs. Higher probability of a bad splice due to harness extension. Continuity/resistance test from the ecu to sensor connector would be ideal.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by TechnicZ (Post 3522672)

Who said anything about throwing parts at it? I am saying to a voltage drop test from ecu to sensor, it is much more accurate then a resistance test. This is much more accurate to tell you if you have poor contact through your splice.

While a continuity check is usually good enough for on/off circuits (lighting, motors, &c), as per Jhill, checking the circuit while it is in operation is the best way to check control circuits. A small wiring problem may pass the "sniff test" of a continuity checker but still cause signal problems.

Take off the TB and push the valve butterfly with your finger make sure it goes from full open to full closed position, it seems to be stuck open a little.

Thank you all for your replies.
I now have the car at my tuner and am waiting to hear back from them as to what it is.
I will report back as soon as I as I know.

It turned out to be just 1 of the pins of the plug on the extension lead (for SC kit) for one of the throttle bodies actuator motor, having a slightly bad connection. :shakes head:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Optimiser (Post 3526616)

It turned out to be just 1 of the pins of the plug on the extension lead (for SC kit) for one of the throttle bodies actuator motor, having a slightly bad connection. :shakes head:

Cool, good deal. Figured you just had a connection issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Optimiser (Post 3525378)

Thank you all for your replies.
I now have the car at my tuner and am waiting to hear back from them as to what it is.
I will report back as soon as I as I know.

How is your running after the fix?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maybe2wice (Post 3885907)

How is your running after the fix?

More reliably now.