Unusual Error Code and Idle Rev Question
 

Was wondering if you guys have seen this or heard of this before. I have been busy lately with the holidays and have been driving my Truck because the Z was in the garage on jack stands doing an oil change and some other minor stuff nothing that would cause my issue. The issue is when I first drove the Z today everything appear ok but after about 10 minutes the Check Engine Light came on. Then the Low Tire light came on, then the light that has a picture of the key fob came on al within a couple minutes of each other. Now I can't tell if I am in limp mode or not but if I try to Rev the engine while in Neutral it cuts off exactly at 5,000 rpm's, well let me say it better, it just won't let me rev past that point so I am not sure is that normal or should you be able to rev to 8K rpm in idle? I disconnected the neg side of battery for about 20 minutes and then started it back up. All lights were gone but engine still unable to rev past 5K at idle and I haven't driven yet to see if it is ok and I have to get on the road for a 2 hour drive and am thinking I should drive the truck so I don't get stranded? Ok after 10 -12 minutes check engine light came back on. But NO low tire warning and NO key fob warning lights. I did check pressure on all 4 and they were around 32 psi.

I then read the code off the ODBII port and the code coming back reads

"B18C0"

but I can not locate this code or its meaning so I don't know which direction to start my troubleshooting?

Also please know I don't rev the engine in idle it just happened because I sensed something wasn't right, you guys understand, that is why I don't know if it is normal for the computer to prevent rev's past 5k when in idle or if the rev limiter should only stop the rev's from going past 8k regardless if in neutral or in gear?

Anyway, normally I wouldn't post like this and I would do a TON of research before reaching out to you. If you have insight to that code I would appreciate it but if not no worries ok. Please try to just post if you can get me going as opposed to just commenting ok, thanks everyone, you guys rock!!!


Thanks Again,
370Z1 (aka: James)

James,

The Z will not rev past 4500-5000 without being on a load from neutral.

You get around that safeguard by revving it in 1st gear if equipped with a manual transmission.

Can't answer anything else, but the normal procedure was like you just did to reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery.

I hope someone else who may have had this issue or code can chime in to help.

Good Luck & Happy New Year!!

Ok quick update:

I used a programmer to wipe the code so the check engine light is currently off and time will tell if it wants to return, I am guessing it will since I did nothing to fix the mystery.

Car has been running now for 20 minutes parked in driveway here are some general stats:

Water Temp: 220F
Oil Pressure: 28 PSI at 800 RPM's
Oil Temp: 210 F
Voltage: 13.9 Vdc
Tire Pressure on all 4: 32PSI
Fuel Level 3/4 tank 91 Octane with one bottle of Octane booster
Note: I normally don't use octane booster BUT when I do a 4 hour round trip I like using it. I am careful NOT to add too much so I don't burn up o2 sensors.
Note2: Octane Booster was added to a full tank and since I already drove prior having gone through a 1/4 tank of gas I don'r feel the octane booster has anything to do with the issue.

I don't really know what could have caused those 3 lights to come on A) Key FOB error, B) Check Engine error C) Low Tire Pressure when none of those things seemed out of place.

Now normally I can say when ever the car threw an error code it was my fault, ie: seat removal, Instrument Cluster removal, Stereo removal, Dash Gauges being replaced, windows don't go up, etc. You guys know all the little things we trip up when doing work to our cars BUT that being said in every situation when I was the one to cause the car to have a fit I was able to clear the errors presently by following the procedures those who have been there prior to me which is why I love this forum as it has helped so very much because I have had my car so far taken apart I actually wondered if it would go back together but it did with a couple added scratches (Dam) I hate working when I am rushed....

Ok gotta go but will check back soon.

Hey Trips,
Thank You my friend, you are awesome for clearing that up for me. Peace Homie...... And a Happy New Year to you.

Be Safe out there tonight....

Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Z won't rev very high unless the transmission is in gear AND the brake is not applied AND clutch pedal all the way up (if applicable).


I did a Q&D web search for "B18C0 DTC" and didn't see anything. :(
My guess is that it's either a random glitch that will never happen again or your ECM has a malfunction. Resetting the ECM, as you have already done, is the only thing I can think of to try. Good luck.

Hello SouthArk370Z,
I appreciate you trying to locate the meaning of the check engine error code. Each time i disconnect the battery the check engine light goes off for about 10 minutes but always returns. I am going to work on it today possibly call the dealer and ask if they know what that code means if they are willing to help without me paying the them to bring the car in? As soon as I solve it I will update so others will know what it was and hopefully help if someone else has this happen.

Take care and thanks again...
Best Regards,
James (370Z1)

http://www.the370z.com/members/370z1...ngine-code.jpg

I found this Engine Code chart and it appears to apply to Nissan's DTC code system BUT i need to dig deeper to see if itis true or not so at this point this chart is nothing more than something found during a Web search.

If it applies to my code "B18CO" then B=Body, 1=MFG, 8=Transmission, CO=?

When I figure it out I will let you know.

James

SOLVED 'Mostly :-)"


Ok, I found the problem and resolved the issue. As I mentioned earlier I was able to clear the DTC check engine code, the one that was reporting the specific code of "B18C0" using my HyperTech programmer BUT still can't locate its meaning but then 10 minutes after clearing it the check engine light came back on so I just went ahead and scheduled an appointment with the Dealer to have it looked at, my apt was for 8:00am on Friday 01/15/2016. I wanted to give it one more shot myself before going to the dealer so using the programmer I read the code again assuming it was going to give me the same "B18C0" code again, BUT it didn't, this time it gave me two codes, they were "P0196" & "P0198" and those I was able to locate. From my research their definitions are below.

[P0196 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance]

[P0198 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High]


This made more sense to me (kind of) because not too long ago I replaced my dash gauges with after market ones BUT I never touched the factory sensors, ie: Oil Temp Sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor because I used a sandwich adapter which has threaded holes in the adapter plate which fits between the engine block and the oil filter. However I guess when performing the work I must have bumped the factory sensor BUT that is a little strange because the check engine light didn't come on until a month after installing the new gauges but I must have touched it or it perhaps vibrated loose causing it to become disconnected (the pins internal to the plastic connector NOT the connector physically becoming disconnected from its mating connector) which I still find odd because any of you who have worked in this area know that the factory Oil Temp Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor are clicked into place using a very strong connector and removing them takes a strong grip to depress the plastic release on the connector. After disconnecting it and reconnecting it the check engine light went away. I verified the pins inside the plastic connector were clean and free of any dirt or grime. Still not sure what that B18C0 code was but it hasn't returned but you know how we like to know what's up so I wish I was able to figure out what trip it and what it meant. Does anybody know how the Dealer would look up the DTC's engine codes? Meaning do they have a list of ALL codes and their definitions and is that a fairly easy task given you take your place in line? What I am asking is would it really be that hard for them to just look up that specific code and tell me what the text book meaning is without having to pay them for a formal visit and waste 2-4 hours? I find it aggravating when you can't just call in and ask them to look up a code, it is not like I was asking them to do any troubleshooting just what ever their computer says about that code so I could head in the right direction you know? but what ever...

Thanks again for those who chimed in, I appreciate it.....

Best Regards,
James (370Z1)

PS: Am very happy with the gauges I will find the appropriate thread and post some pics, perhaps drop one pic here too. Will need to snap a couple of shots. A bit of a challenging DIY but it turned out good.

Here is what I had installed:
1) 60mm Depo Racing Water Temp Gauge (7 color) (Analog with needle with L.E.D warning indicator)
2) 60mm ProSport EVO series Oil Temperature (4 Color) (Digital with extra external Warning Lamp)
3) 60mm ProSport EVO series Oil Pressure (4 Color) (Digital with extra external Warning Lamp)
4) 60mm ProSport EVO series Voltage (4 Color)

Glad to hear you fixed it. :driving:

Not sure if dealers keep printed manuals any more but they may be able to look it up using CONSULT (or whatever the current diagnostic software is). You'll never know if you don't ask. ;)

Might be worthwhile to look through the FSM. I doubt that it lists all DTCs but you might get lucky.