E85
 

E85 requires ~30% more flow capabilities than normal gas; my question is when would you want to install a fuel return? is that based on fuel demand @ WOT or is it based on the size of your fuel pump/injectors?

any details/answers are appreciated

Thanks!

fuel pump, injectors, need 30% more flow, and a fuel return is required by DOT? anyhow on N/A engine, its useless unless u change compression ratio, on TT or SC u can reach over 100HP over 91-93. Phunk i think made like 675WHP stock engine on e85, gl OP.

Not worth the investment if your staying NA IMO

i'm NOT staying NA. just hitting the NA ceiling before i get boost, enjoying the parts along the way instead of doing it all at once.

That's going to be a lot of wasted money. You won't be keeping many of the parts you use to hit the NA ceiling when you boost the car.

Just to clarify; the investment in a fuel return system is not worth it or going E85 while being NA isn't worth it?

I planned on making the switch to E85 before going boost myself.

A fuel return for anything but a turbo setup is overkill. You don't even need it for a more conservative turbo setup.

If injectors, pump and a tune are worth it for the ~10whp you'll get NA on e85, go for it. But the injectors you need for a NA E85 setup are much smaller than for a turbo build, so you'll end up replacing them again when you boost the car.

I'm building for 700ish hp. Here's my roughplan:


-63mm throttle bodies
-Ported upper intake plenum
-Ported lower intake plenum
-600+CC fuel injectors (E85 compatible) for now, 1k or larger later
-320/325 LPH fuel pump
-Fuel pressure regulator
-Fuel return kit
-distributor plugs
-Front upper adjustable control arms
-Rear camber arms
-Rear toe bolts
-Rear traction bolts
-GT strut bar
-Sway bars
-Oil catch can 200cc+
-Lightweight flywheel
-Stage III clutch
-Slotted brake discs
-Stainless steel brake lines
- Stainless steel clutch lines
-Silicone coolant hoses
-CSF radiator
-19 row oil cooler system (larger if/when needed)
-1/2" oil pan spacer/enlarged oil pan/w/spacer
-Enlarged rear diff pan
-Final drive 3.9 gear
-Polyurethane Differential bushings
-Polyurethane transmission mount
-Polyurethane engine mounts
-midpipe section strait pipe exhaust
-Headers
-Ecutek tuning

BOOST

-carrillo a type h arms
-CP 11.1:1 piston head w/ gaskets
-ARP studs
-ARP extended wheel bolts
-JWT 263 cams w/ supporting valve springs/retainers
-Vortex single or F.I. Twin turbo

-FINAL TUNE, E85, 93, 91, maybe 100


When I ask questions, keep in mind that I'm not looking for power NOW. I was reliable power, and I want a proper build, no shortcuts. I'm just seeing if I can knock it out now rather than later since I'm going E85 and porting everything up to the heads.

There are some parts that are redundant (I.e. Headers, injectors...to change/be removed/replaced as power increases.

Fair enough, I just dont know why you would waste the money on parts and labor that you will not need when you boost the car.

This, some of the parts you have are nice when N/A but will need to be replaced as it will make boost terrible such as the gears or the oil cooler/plugs, waste of money to buy now and then know you will change when going boost.

:iagree:

I just think it's my nature as a person. I was a nuclear reactor in the military, so attention to detail and overkill with precautions (getting more than i need so i don't have to worry about it) is kinda my thing.

That, and for some reason, 90% of the ppl i meet who talks cars have all taken the fast route for power (kit + car + wanting to drive it like it was meant for that hp= f@*#ed.) or just want to make it pretty w/ a few suspension mods/bolt ons.

The way I see it, it's like a torque wrench. when using it, you want to ideally load whatever value you're torquing to within 15%-90% of the max range of the wrench, to make sure that you're accurate and that you're not putting undue stress by pushing it to its full capabilities.

I understand you overbuilding the motor, but headers, injectors, gears and the oil cooler will do nothing as far as what you're trying to do. It'll just be money spent on parts and labor that you'll turn around and resell for 50 cents on the dollar (and a total loss on the labor) when you put the turbo on. Skip the headers and gears, buy the 34 row oil cooler the first time, and between parts and labor you're $2000 closer to the built motor and turbo. If you have to do the injectors and E85 now, go with the larger injectors off the bat. They're harder to tune for, but it'll save you the $600 for the smaller injectors that won't work when you put on the turbo kit.

Skipping the clutch and flywheel for now (you do have a CSC replacement on the list, right?) and holding off until the motor comes out will save you 5-9 hours of labor and the pain in the *** of driving a FI rated clutch in traffic every day. The adjustable clutch pedal will be your friend at that point too.

your money do what you want. Talk to an engine builder to get a clear answer.

I'm not worried about pricing (definitely NOT balling lol), but I am about quality. As for the redundant parts, well....this is the best way I can explain it:

bought the car in 2013, didn't start anything on it until the beginning of this year. I'm taking the build slowly, step by step so I can really enjoy and understand the improvement each part contributes. (aka i'm broke lol).

That, and I'm trying to do as much as I can DIY, so I can REALLY learn.

If you're broke, why spend over $3k on parts that don't fit with the big picture?

It's your money, but the money you save is a good chunk of the total cost of a turbo kit or built motor.

This kind of build and being broke don't mix. Just sayin'

If the money you do have is burning your pockets, put into suspension at least that way you will benefit from it regardless.

The benefits of how clean E85 keeps a combustion chamber and oil alone are worth the price of admission with or without forced induction/N20. If N20 injected, a simple map switch is all that's necessary due to the high octane level (104). No more messing with fuel additives nor expensive race fuels, draining tanks etc. Additionally if cat-less, ridding the exhaust of the 93 octane rotten egg smell is priceless!

I just came out of a E85 swapped platform and did extensive research on the subject, not to mention first hand experience.

To add to the mix. I'm going to give you a quick analogy. Stock 370z is a 3/8 Rachel. You want it better and to be able to do more and more powerful so you buy sockets and extensions adapters ect. But you plan to be even more powerful and stronger.. you decide you want to buy 3/8 impact wrench. Sure some of those sockets and stuff will work with the impact wrench when used lightly but that's just some. You will end up needing impact gun stuff to be able to get the most out of it.

You buying an parts and installing now in somewhat like the above. You want more out of what you have but plan to go all out later. The problem is that some of the stuff don't work with the later plans.

YzGyz

Put on the return system and don't hook up the regulator to no vacuum source, set the pressure to oem (60 psi I think) ... If you got boost plans. You'll be fine.


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