Help! Car Idles Rough, Won't Accelerate, Service Engine Soon Light Flashes, Code P300
 

Hey,

So I come from the G37 forum, where it seems my problem doesn't exactly have an answer at the moment.

So some background.

Infiniti G37x 2012, 46k Miles
Mods: K&N Short Ram Intake, Fast Intentions Resonated HFC

In tried to install the FI RHFC and gave up when i couldn't get the top bolt out that faces the engine bay. Took it to midas, had them finish the job.

Performed the overnight battery ecu reset, start button ecu reset, still was giving me 0152 Codes, signaling my O2 sensors were shot, likely i did this when i was taking them out of my car.

Occasionally it would throw 0300 code, misfire? lean?

Anyways, I drove about 300 miles like this on my factory o2 sensors, and then swapped to new NTK O2 sensors (OEM) for Downstream.

Did the overnight battery ecu reset, start button reset, drove for about 70 miles, on the third time i started it up, no 0152 codes, but it went straight to a flashing 0300 code, i would clear it, it would come right back up. Car drove VERY SLUGGISH, almost like it was bogging and couldn't accelerate at all, would make a pop sound if i pressed the gas too hard.

Checked my K&N intake and found one hose off on the drive side. Zip tied that together, did a 5 min ecu reset and the car still ran like crap after about 2 mins of startup, scared to drive it now to be honest.

The odd thing is that after a ECU Reset, the car drives fine for 2 mins, then goes back to bogging, lean mode. Not sure what happens in this two mins, but i dont think it is my o2 sensors anymore, could be something on the intake side

I will check the vacuum hoses again and ensure there are no other leaks. COuld it be a bad MAF? How can i test my MAF? I ordered a bluetooth obd2 reader so i can check voltages and such tomorrow.

Anything else i should troubleshoot? I can take a video and post it to youtube, of the moment i start it up, and after 2 mins when it starts to idle very sluggishly.

I called FI and they believe it could be a vacuum leak.
I will put the stock intakes back on today if no more luck to try to narrow down the problem.
Thanks in advance for the help.

Brett

anyone?

did you try cleaning the mafs maybe before thinking of replacing them??

p0300 is a misfire code, My guess is the o2 sensors you swapped to are shot

Looked up P0152 code and its calling for bank 2 sensor 1 which is upstream. You said you replaced downstream sensors correct? My best guess midas used air tools to to take off the bolts and damaged your upstream sensors in the process.

That would be my guess too. Can you switch the sensors from side to side and see if the code switches banks?

Ehh.., but coil maybe bad? Am guessing.

Not a bad idea but damn that's a lot of work. There's so little room to remove the bank 1 sensor 1 it takes a good while. Never looked into bank 2 but I wouldn't imagine it's much better off.

Hey,

So long story short, i was receiving faults and after my HFC install, already ordered new Downstream sensors to the NTK (OEM) and changed these and have been receiving these Error Codes from my BAFX Bluetooth Reader.

The code log below is from after i changed to O2 Sensors to the NTK OEM ones, Odd it is showing P0057 and P0037 now?! Heater Control Circuit Low. Does this mean those O2 sensors are bad that I just replaced?

I only received P0031 P0051 and P0150 before i swapped out the NTK Sensors. Crazy.

I will put the old stock ones back in. See if i can get it back to only P0031 P0051 and P0150. IF this is the case, do i need to change both upstream O2 sensors? Are they Shot?

Current Fault Log
------------------
P1168: Closed Loop Control (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0037: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0057: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0051: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0130: O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Historic Fault Log
------------------
P0152: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1148: Closed Loop Control (Bank 1)
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

SO i changed out my downstream sensors back to the OEM ones i had and these are the codes im getting...looks like the Bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 codes went away. Seems like I should buy the OEM Upstream ones from rock auto...Are they hard to install? I saw the DIY someone wrote up, i just hope the crowfoot can get it out, i know how much of a pain in the *** they were to remove originally. i tried everything to loose them. What do you recommend for anti-sieze compound?

What is the difference between pending fault and current fault?

V3EV0A

Current Fault Log
------------------
P1148: Closed Loop Control (Bank 1)
P1168: Closed Loop Control (Bank 2)

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0051: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Historic Fault Log
------------------
P0152: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

End of report.

Use nickel anti-seize. The silver stuff. Put in on the threads. Don't get any on the tip. ;)

Never-Seez (Bostik) makes a nickel-based anti-seize.

Their "High Temperature Stainless" formula is one of my favorites for general-purpose, hi-temp use.

Use a very light film on the threads. Too much can foul the sensor.

I like the Loctite N5000 anti-seize. We use it at work on hi-temp parts on gas turbines. For steam turbines. We use Loctite C5-A cooper.

Thanks i just bought this.

Should i use it with the brush that came with the bottle?

Anyone have a how to for changing the pre-cat O2 sensors?