Here is the summary from the service manual.

awesome news. when i get home I'm gonna hook up a line so i can breath in and out and see if the gas cap will open and close. I know i can only do about 2psi so that should be a pretty good test.

Ok bad news, i cant open the gas cap with lung pressure so im going to have to find out how little it does take, because its more than 2psi.

What about the vacuum test? Gotta figure out if your ventilation needs to be 1 way or 2 way.

Ill turn the air compressor down to like 5psi and go up from there and i can hook the vacuum up to it and see if it'll pull it open.

wooohooo. feeling pumped!! stopped by the shop today to see the gas tank. it'll be done tomorrow and my guy took my suggestion for the drivers fuel level sensor. we cut the top off the white lid thing and on the inside he welded a bracket from the top. two nuts and bolts will hold the left over white plastic part to the bracket. we checked clearance and the level sensor will be able to work 100% so my gauge will work. the only difference will be my dots will literally go down at double the speed haha. The wires will come out of the tank with proper gas tank exiting things (still gotta see it) and ill paint tomorrow after I bring it home and get some pics for you guys. Only thing left to do is test to see if the gas cap will vent and vacuum properly. If it doesn’t I think ill Tee the 1/8” line we left that goes to the top of the tanks fill line and just vent to atmos. stay tuned.

Damn, we left the new shop to go get the tank at the old shop and he forgot the pressure test. So i left it for one more day and phone was dead. Delayed one more day...

ok finally got the tank back. starting painting tomorrow as i got home late. plan is rustoleum rubber undercoat paint. heres some pics...

ok first pic shows where we mounted the drivers side level sensor. as you can see it floats up opposite of the main fuel pump sensor so they wont hit each other.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pstmoecymw.jpg

next two pics is the bracket i talked him into making. the drivers level sensor was cut off and two nuts and bolts were used to hold it to the bracket welded to the top of the tank.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pskvrazddd.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdr7kvnof.jpg

inside tank.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psrrmntd9v.jpg

outside tank

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psjnzpy5fl.jpg

and last the connector that lets you bring wires out of the tank and clamps it all together for a seal.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pss0zysg8q.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps04ck9bnt.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psgf8mtyb1.jpg

that should do the trick!

Also no room in the tank to get my hands in there so i put the quick connect hose back on the cross over thing off the tank and just cut it so it could reach the very bottom of the tank.

before you paint it with the undercoat, make sure its one that fully hardens. I have painted stuff with it before hoping to get a semi textured and soft coating just to find that some brands of it stay slimy for eternity, they dont "cure" or dry. I would possibly consider a light truck bed spray just to be positive it cures

You should rethink your electrical connectors inside the tank. You want your connectors outside the tank, not inside. You want solid wire inside the tank. If you have to make a connection inside. Solder it and heat shrink it. You don't want to be like TWA flight 800.

The wires with the connectors inside are there because thats where the oem wires ended after being cut off from the old white top. I didnt look but i dont think cutting them off the old sensor and trying to add new ones will work without finding new pin connectors and stuff. Leaving them attached like oem is best. Regardless of how it is in there it has to have a connector in there because if its a solid connection i wont be able to pull the pump ever as the two sensors are using the same top and outlet. Everytime i go in id have to cut them in half making the wires shorter and shorter. Solid could of worked if the wires came out the top of the tank vs the white pump housing top but we didnt do it that way.

PS as for solidering...per my builder who has done WRC built cars...solidering is a 100% no no!! Solidering weakens the wires just outside the solider. So vibration can have them weaken and break just like a weld on metal outside the bead. In all racing they dont do this. They use solid tub style connectors and just crimp them together and heat shrink.

Someone doesn't know how to solder and how to weld if someone is telling you that.

You think welding is as strong at the metal, the heat zone, the weld, back to the heat zone and then the metal again??? Its not. The heat zone will always be weak unless you heat treat it like dunking it in oil right away after youre done. I also dont see any solider on oem parts...its all one wire from connector to connector or clamped like i said.

I knew I should have kept my mouth shut. :shakes head: Just trying to point a few things out to help you out.

You're not telling me anything new about welding. Having a degree in welding engineering and welding for over 25 yrs on materials that you never heard of, and of technics . Working on my masters in mechanical engineering. You should do some research on stress relieving before posting. Your oil quenching is not stress relieving. It's heat treating. Totally different. If you dunk you weld right after you are done welding. It will make the weld and heat affected zone HARD and brittle. D'uh! What you want to do is a preheat of the welding area before welding, weld, then do a post teatment. This all depends on the material. Some materials require that you keep the part below 70F the whole time. To do this, you have to use chill blocks. Some, all you have to do is pass a torch over the part until you see moisture forming. Then dry it with the torch. Others require a preheat of over 700f or higher before welding. With an interpass temp within 50 degrees (650 to 750) of your preheat temp. Once welding has stopped. Some materials require only a slow cool to room temp. So you wrap the piece in Kaowool insulation and let it cool. Others require going straight into stress relieving. The process normally goes like this. Start at a temp, say 500f. Hold for an hr. Then ramp up a 100 degrees ever hr until you hit your final temp. Depends on the material. Say 1100F. Hold there for a set time. Then ramp down a 100 degrees ever hr until 400F is hit. Other stress relieving methods include peening, and vibration.

You're right on a new car about soldering wires. Because the manufacturer's don't have to do it. It's when you start to modify and add things to the system. Oh, there is a BUNCH of solder in a new car. Every circuit board in the car has soldered joints.

Have fun with your project.

But like you said i bet you're taking about metals ive never heard of. Here its mild steel or copper wires. So if teams have found vibrations kill their connection points we have to do whats best as seen by failure. I agree with you on everything else but if teams are paying hundreds of thousands for rally cars and they've seen wire failure except with using crimps and clamps you pretty much have to go with what works. As for welding like my cage for example if cages have just been TIG a certain way and its worked for X amount of years then ill let him just TIG my FIA cage up and call it a day. Ive seen the welds and cages. Im confident it'll save my life as he does it. All other metals and stuff i'll most certainly find someone like you with an advanced degree to consult with for sure!

You forgot the "BOOM".......mike drop......

With mild steel, you could do a little preheat of the weld area with a torch. Just heat the metal up enough to form moisture on the surface. This chases the the hydrogen away so you don't get hydrogen corrosion cracking in the weld. Most people don't know about that little trick.

As for the wiring. If I'm building a race car. I would want to try much as possible to have my wiring with few as possible connections of any kind. That's clamps, crimps, weatherpacks, milspec connectors and soldered joints. The more connections you have, the more places that problems will bite you. I've seen all of the fore mention connections fail. As you said that if a team is paying hundred of thousands for their race cars. You can bet that they have custom made wiring harnesses.

Nice thread info in and out

I'm contemplating following suit !

Have you installed it yet ?

As a licensed PE Electrical Engineer crimp/compression connectors are the weakest type of connection and should be avoided when used in conditions where vibrations are present.

BUT a good crimp, which the installer should be able to do, in a tank with little to no air is pretty safe and no cause for concern.

Yes i have. Haven't started it up yet though

Be careful filling! Haha. With the decreased size even with the little 1/8th vent tube still on there, if you fill with a can and not a normal fuel pump, the vent cant breath and it'll overflow! You have to have something get down far enough inside there. Everything else went smooth! No leaks seen! And with only 4.8 gallons in the tank my gauge reads 8 dots or half full!

Solder connection are the preferred way to go, No moister or vibration issues. Never had an issue with vibration on the track or on the water. What weakens the wire is when you strip away the insulation, No support. Shrink wrap will take care of that issue.

Car got dropped off at Moore Speed Performance who did my gas tank. Side exit exhaust to come!!

Did you ever finish the rear brake ducts and air jacks?

Rear brake ducts are now mounted to the rear diff cooler. Everyone agreed cooling that was more important, even Doran. Im also thinking of doing two front 2" cooling ducts to keep them colder.

As for the air jacks ill be finishing soon. First the new exhaust. Once thats done we can do a flat bottem and rear diffusor. Once thats done i can mark and drill holes in the flat bottom where the legs will come through for the air jacks.

Coming along. Still need to box the frame in and finish.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pszkwiklvr.jpg

Put a thin piece of polished stainless steel sheet metal over the area with the the exhaust sticking out about 1/8". Measuring from the exhaust pipe. 2" above, 2" in front, 2" below, and all the way to the edge of the fender. Think that would look good, plus it will keep the exhaust heat off of the paint, and be easier to clean. ;)

Ok all done!

So what we did was cut a 4" hole through the frame rail. As this will weaken the frame what Jon did was take a thick thick thick piece of SS sheet steel and roll it into a perfect tube and weld the seam. Then he remeved the wide body and side skirt and welded the 4" tube to both sides of the frame rail all around. On the inside he then used some plate steel to solidly strengthen that even more.

Next he built the CBE. First i used the Motordyne XYZ pipe that ends in 3". We used his V band clamp and welded that to the XYZ pipe and to a 18" long inline res. then it has 90ish degree bend to another inline res but this one instead of a bottle type is Vibrants ultra quiet straight through res. its really just a bigger oval res vs a smaller perfect circle res. then he used another flex coupler. Now i know the xyz pipe has 2 flex already but the reason he used a 3" flex right before it goes through the frame is because that section is solidly bolted to the frame rail. Reason he did that is we didnt want a 3" pipe banging inside a 4" pipe. The last bit of 3" pipe going through the frame through the 4" pipe has a 600 degree silicone coupler around it and DEI titanium wrap around it filling the 1/2" gap solidly. The exhaust tip if you will is solid and going no where!! Now to remove he used a band strap on the ultra quiet res to the flex coulper and of course remove the v band up front.

Thoughts?? Its amazing!! The craftsmanship is A+!! The sound is 100% different than what i had but its good! Loud loud loud on start up but quiet during idle. Highway sounded good with little to zero drone and rasp is zero! Its very very deep and throaty! On start up it reminded me of a exhaust cutout but not while driving.

Cant wait to be tuned!! Car had a lot deleted and all new cai, new injectors, fuel etc so no WOT yet! Tune to come!!


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pskzfaw2fs.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps1m67amnn.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psv0qxgw1q.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc4uazou1.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psgurnzhno.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psy33o5kgl.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psvgoxycls.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps7eio57v4.jpg

Looks seriously business from the outside, I like it. Hard to tell exactly what's going on underneath.. Could use some shots from further away. But I get the idea. Very cool. What fender flares are those?

I can jack it up and take some later. Its a moonbeam i bought used here.

That's what I was talking about with the polish sheet metal. Looks good. :tup:

A video would be nice. Need to hear that bad boy

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

:iagree:

Here's a cold start up with a few revs. It's not tuned and a hard start so I didn't rev high. Some thing I just noticed...my hiss is like night and day.


New

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AkGu9QENE9o

Old

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Gg8xjNUmuII

Wot before. New wot to come.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2mX2hkocr8o

I think the first video got taken down

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Yep

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41PcfhJMv1s

Sounds good dude! Did you get a weight difference after installing all of that? Im gong to guess its around 50 lbs.