car starts up then dies
 

So for the past week or two my car has had a rough start up to when it sounds like its going to die out but then stablizes. Today it died right after starting it up. had to try about 5 times to start it before it stayed on. Tried googling around to find an answer to what is going on but didnt have much luck. any else experience this or know what is going wrong? the car isnt throwing any codes. Its a 2010 nismo with 44k miles

Mine does the same thing every now and then. It mainly happens after I drive it for a little bit and stop somewhere. I usually just give it a little gad when I start it up after it happens

Same here, every time I drive around a little and everything gets warmed up it struggles to start. It happened twice that it wouldn't turn over to start since I had my car. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem or find any codes, as it happens every so often. I'm now noticing that when I come to a stop light at idle my rpm dips for a sec, like it's about to stall, and then stabilizes back to normal range. I'm thinking fuel system issues or dirty throttle body.

^^ yea I'm wondering the same. I'm gonna clean my throttle bodies out this weekend and try to clean a little inside the intake mani and see if it makes any difference. I'll let yall know if it helps any

Alright, yeah I hope it's a simple fix.

Buy or borrow an OBD/CAN scanner/logger. Shouldn't take long to figure out which variables are out of whack and go from there.

I'd try cleaning the MAFs before going to all the hassle of cleaning the TBs. Dirty MAFs are a common problem and it only takes 10-30 minutes, a small wrench/nut-driver, and an aerosol can of cleaner. Easy job for even the least experienced weekend mechanic.

ok guys thanks for the input, seems to be the same issue yall are experiencing, cold starts it starts up no problem. but when i drive it around a bit then say go grab some food or something and come back out and start it up again is when it has the issues. might be the heat cause over the past month the temp has been rising here in san antonio.

Mine would do that, too. It would sputter at times. Press down on the accelerator pedal a few times when it struggles to fire up. What I've done so far is replace the spark plugs (at least a couple got fouled) and cleaned the throttles and intake manifold. I also invested in a couple of oil catch cans. Less than 25 miles of driving is enough for residue to build up. So far I've had no issues.

I cleaned my TB's, manifold, and MAF but my car is on jack stands right now so when I get it all put back together Friday I'll see if I can tell any difference

any vaccum leaks anywhere? maybe you got bad gas too....to help get you through a bad tank (if) thats the issue through some lucas fuel stabilizer

I can't speak for the rest but it's happend to me on multiple occasions(Different tanks of gas). But I've had the car a little over a year and it did it the first time about 3 months ago and had done it about 3-4 times ever since. But maybe a complete cleaning of most my breather parts will show some improvement

Mine has been doing this too much lately :( did you guys ever find out the fix?

Put you some good ol' ethanol free premium fuel in....not sure the octane of it near you,,,but i only use e-free 93....places are limited & people shy away from the 3.75 per gallon vs.2.50 for the 93 w/10%ethanol......Much better performance from real gas!!!
puregas.org is the website.

I would do what everyone else is suggesting. MAF, TB cleaning maybe a spark plug change if you have not done so recently. ( or if the car is new that's probably not your problem). Vacuum leak is also a suspect, if your familiar with a scan tool you can hook one up and look at your short term fuel trims for both bank 1 and 2. I believe if it's a positive number that means your engine is running lean(intake leak, also if this number isn't greater than 10-15% then you don't have a intake leak). Negative means it's running rich. A good way to test for a vacuum leak is to observe these numbers at idle, and then rev the engine to roughly 2k-2.5k rpm. If the number decreases back down to zero then you have a intake leak somewhere. i would look up a video because what I just explained can be confusing for someone whose never done it before plus I'm just explaining how to do it off of my memory so some of my info may not be 100%.