FT183TECHS
May 6, 2015 2010 Infiniti G37, Sport 3.7L, V6, USA *
Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter
- change oil and filter
Replaced Engine Oil and Replaced Engine Oil Filter


2 Josh Bunn
January 12, 2015 2009 Nissan 370Z, Touring 3.7L, V6, USA *
Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter Replaced Engine Oil and Replaced Engine Oil Filter


1 Lou Schlenker
January 6, 2015 2008 Infiniti G37, Sport 3.7L, V6, USA *
Fuel Injector Wiring
- found rat damage to injector harness.
Repaired Fuel Injector Wiring

1 Chris Hines
May 31, 2014 2010 Nissan 370Z, Touring 3.7L, V6, MFI, USA *
Timing Chain
32,467 miles

Front timing exposed. Going to redo the timing as I'm not confident the engine builders have timed it right.
What timing tool kit will I need to lock everything up? Can't seem to find one specific for the VH engine. Will a universal kit work?
Thanks
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...5cc531f077.jpg

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No kit needed. Put everything to TDC and then move the crank back a bit to gain slack to pull the chain off the water pump. Of coarse the tensioner will need to be locked in place and removed before you do that. The colored chain links will help you time it via the notches on the cam sprockets and crank. If you have no clue what I am talking about, get a service manual before you do anything. I can already tell by looking at the picture you are not on TDC. If you get this wrong, you are not going to be happy. Bye-Bye valves.

Your really don't need to undo anything to check it from here. Just spin the motor over to TDC, take a picture so we can look at it.

You're good....;)

Use to do it for a living while in higher education. I have done many.

Evohunter - that's some great info you have there mate. Surprised that those reluctor wheels are moving. I changed my fibre seals on the timing covers, replaced the metal gauze thimble filters on both banks and replaced a leaking IVT solenoid valve - end result is a seamless wave of torque to redline.

This was all done despite the ECU never logging any fault codes. It just felt off. The seals are cheap. They are known to blow out under pressure on R35's. Same seals. I posted about it somewhere and i'm pretty sure i listed the part numbers. If you're unsure, it's the seals that go on the shaft that's inside the front timing covers. The seals are a stiff fiber circular seal with a diagonal slit.

The other seal i know of is the paper seal underneath that pistol shaped cover between the two intake cam sprockets and underneath the centre coolant pipe

Are you using 5w30 oil? How about the fly wheel? Was it fitted in the correct position/was the correct flywheel fitted?

THIS^^^

You can download it from the site -- I think it's in the repair/maintenance forum.

Glad you're closing in on solving the problem!

Hi guys
Checked the Oil gallery gaskets and they were both fine! Although i now have 2x new ones to replace.
Sorry its been a while I have been very busy with work. The Engine timing is mechanically spot on from what I can see. Pic attached http://i61.tinypic.com/1ijuyc.jpg
full size: Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
The orange links don't line up as I cranked it over a few times to get TDC. All timing marks lined up and seems to be fine. Obviously the only marks I couldn't see was the one on the rear of the cam sprocket which this was down to my engine builder to get right!!
One other question can the cam sprocket plates on the front which the cam sensors pick readings off be adjusted?. Could the engine builder of not set these right? Could they be on opposite side?
Thanks

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ode-p0011.html

I had the p0011 code. All I had to do was change the oil.

Update!
 

Hi guys
Having been busy with work and waiting for a new oil pump to turn up the car has been left.
I've now fitted the new oil pump, checked timing and put everything back together. Car fired first crack. No more p0011 or P0021 codes but it's still in limp mode. Throttle very unresponsive and can't get car to rev past 3500rpm. Again it's in limp mode. No fault codes on the ecu!
Any suggestions?
Thanks

If its in limp you should have a code unless it thinks its overheating which you could see at the gauges. The other problem that could be causing you problems is the miscalibration on your vvel sensors. You need to do the .500v setting immediatley after reassembling the engine with the actuators and control shafts set at the propper opening angle. Thee vvel actuators come from nissan with a plastic wedge tool pre installed to set the base position during assembly. Think of it as having to set the opening angle on a throttle butterfly mechanically first and then having to do the .500v setting of the tps sensor to make sure it is also in the correct spot. You calibrated the sensor to the correct voltage but whos to say that one shaft wasnt at 4 degrees and one was at 7 when you did it since it was already fired up with miscalibrated sensors (and probably reused actuators that werent even installed with the alignment pieces anyway) beforehand. Very few shops worldwide actually know how to fully align the vvel actuators on a rebuild without purchasing new ones with the alignment pieces installed

Basically to do it right the control shafts need to be something like 5 degrees off the minimum lift position(exact figure is in the manual somewhere) then you need to adjust the actuator position by sticking your finger in there and turning the ballscrew that moves the pivot until the two bolt holes line up straght. Then hold it in place at the flats on the control shaft and tighten the two bolts. Once it is mechanically set to the correct position you can use consult to align the sensors and perform the vvel innitialization for the control module. If you dont have consult 3 you can follow the manuals steps to set it by disconnecting the vvel control module under the battery tray cycling the ignition and doing it all by hand. Also when doing it by hand it is much easier to get the voltages from the square junction connector under the rubber cover by the battery instead of trying to back pin the vvel sensorsbehind the motor, the wire locations can be dug out of the manual. It is not a fun process without consult but the dealers usually manage to screw it up even with the tool.

So why don't you just open a shop here in florida and hire an apprentice?

Makes perfect sense. So pulling 2x actuators of another engine won't work? Is there a manual or any form of documentation to do this. I have set the sensors to 0.500v when engine was first installed. Wouldn't start until I did this procedure. There is physically nothing else it can be!
Thanks for your help.