Crankshaft bolt removal after NST pulley failed
 

Hopefully someone has a suggestion here. Long story short my NST crank pulley disinigrated last Friday as I was returning from the track and I'm now having a hell of a time getting the bolt and what is left of the pulley removed.

What I have tried so far:

1. isolate drive train with 3/8 extention run through the driveline yoke with that run into some 3/4 in pipe braced on the floor then a 5 ft breaker bar and a friend - result 2 broken 3/8 extentions.

1.5 tried bumping the starter with breaker bar braced on ground- no luck

2. Using a chain wrench wrapped around the remnants of the NST pulley and braced against the sway bar and the 5 ft breaker bar- result side of the chain started to dig into the timing chain cover so stopped.

3. Removed radiator so I could get a air gun on it.
1st attempt with crappy craftsman rettle gun no luck.
2nd attempt brother borrowed from work a Ingersoll Rand ported 800 ft lbs at 400 psi gun- result I can only throw 140 psi at it with my compressor but no luck. The gun slowly turns the crank.

Also with each attempt we have had PB blaster, Heat, and cold.

Does anyone have any other ideas??? And where would someone find a flywheel lock out device?

Have you tried putting the car in gear, setting the parking brake and holding the brakes (second person) to hold the crankshaft?

Yep sorry yoke blocked and in 5th gear, emergency break applied as well.

Any chance of getting a nitrogen bottle from a welding supply company to get the higher pressure you need?

I hadn't thought of a nitrogen bottle. I was thinking of renting one of the diesel powered job site compressors and give that a try. I also ordered some are Kroil which is supposed to be great penitrating oil.

Is the motor ok?

You sound like you know how to work on a car but I gotta ask: are you sure you are turning the bolt the right way? Every crank bolt I've worked on (granted, not a lot) would come loose using the block-the-wrench-and-hit-the-starter method, so it's a long shot.

FSM will have how Nissan does it.

Yup sounds like she stuck on their real good.

A heavy duty impact gun like the ones they use for tire shops with a matching compressor will break it loose.

I would have tried breaking it loose with either a big sized rubber mallet or a small heavy sledge hammer a poor mans impact gun.

The special tool that Nissan uses to lock the flywheel looks the be about $250. Might be an option though if you get desperate enough.

I had to use a floor jack on the end of a braker bar to get my crank bolt off. Even then it started to lift the front of the car in the air before it finally gave

Yep, that bad boy is on there tighter than a nuns box.

Thanks for the suggestions. Im going to borrow a torque multipler from work and give it a try tonight. 18 ft lbs tq = 200 throught the multipler. It can go to 200 ft input = 2400 lbs out. If that doesnt do it might be time for the lock out.

Engine is fine Scott...for now

Add a little Air tool oil in the impact gun at the air chuck. It will give it a little more power. I use a MAC 1/2" impact gun. It's better than the Snap-on jobbers.

Got it finally. Had all the high speed gadgets and it came back to, 5 ft of breaker bar and a chain wrench wrapped in heater hose around the driveline yoke to isolate the give in the drive train.

The remainder of the pulley was stuck on good as well but, came out with a small puller. I would warn everyone again on the light weight pulleys. Not worth it and can lead to much bigger problems. Luckily mine broke at relatively low rpms near the house and the way it broke it didn't damage the timing cover and was still round enough to not have a huge unbalancing effect on the crank.

Glad to hear the NEWS! :tup:

Now you can get back on the road :driving:

WOW, you had to work hard for that one. Did you do a dance around the yard when it finally popped loose?