Engine will not start, seeking ideas
 

So, Friday I traveled 2 hours home from work without problem. At my exit I took a little fast but no more than usual. At the base of the exit as soon as I hit accelerator it died (manual). Then after it shutter started a few times, no pings or bangs. More like a couple cylinders wer r firing others werent.

Fast forward to a tow coming because battery died trying to get it started....

He hooked up the wrong terminals. Then it wouldn't turn over at all.

This morning tried to start it and got a click per attempt but no turn over. There is a high pitched whistle though that only goes away if the negative is taken off.

There is now a new battery in it and it still won't turn over. There a fuse I need to check or something? Need help.

All other electrical items work but are running off battery power so i have taken the negative off for the time being.

Anyone had this happen? Know how it happened or how to fix it?

Bad fuel pump, coil, or worse situation ECU. Also check fuses behind the battery and next to your clutch pedal if they all give continuity.

Ah yes, fuses was the first place I went. Kick plate fuses all tested good. Fuses next to battery good including the starter one.

Please tell me there is another set I missed, I mean that, I hope it's just a fuse.

Dealership is coming to pick up tomorrow but I hate to see what that is going to run

Let them diagnose it, it might be the coil pack not sending electricity to all the plugs.

The high pitched humming, almost a buzz, idea of what that may be? Isolated it to the drivers side of the engine bay.

Ohh vacuumed tube leak maybe, check the hoses connections near and behind engine.

Sorry to suggest it, but seeing as your tow truck driver hooked the battery up wrong, there might be a chance he fried some things, maybe even the alternator

I just looked at my engine and tried to figure out what could make that sound and its only the throttle bodies electric motor gears might be stripped and the valve is in closed position, where no air is goin to the engine.

Those are all things I was worried about. Originally I thought it was air in the lines from the sharp turn. Anyone know what side it's on. I took a hard right so the fuel would have been forced to the left.

And another weird thing. I had 40-50% fuel when it died. Got 3 gallons in it and then it read little over 1/4.

Ehhh... he might have fried or at least "bricked" the ECU :eek:

Can you get it on enough to plug a reader into the OBDII port?

EDIT: Wait, did you say you took a sharp right hand turn and it died. It's probably fuel starvation then -- there's tons of threads on that.

If you have checked all the fuses (don't forget the fusible links near the battery terminal), then it's time to let a pro look at it.

May have damaged one (or more) of the electronic modules. :(

Kick plate fuses and the ones next to the battery are all good. No signs of burn or burn through

And literally everything in the car, save the eengine, electronically work. I'm hoping that means the on board computer isn't fubar.

Also rocked the car in gear without it skipping over to see if maybe the starter bound, old trick

Did this happen to be a right handed turn and were you low on fuel?

Yes 35 mph exit going faster than 35, 1/4 tank

Reverse battery connections... wow. Sorry man... you'll probably want to see if you can have Nissan pull stuff up through Consult. If there's no response from the ECU, she's dead, Jim. :facepalm:

As for engine dying and sputtering from hard turn with 1/4 tank, yea that's fuel starvation. IIRC, the work around is to manually fill it up to get it started again.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...tarvation.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...n-tonight.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...nderstand.html

That's my main worry, fried electronics. I only ask because I don't know but if every other electronic device works (windows, locks, wipers etc.) is that a good sign? It just won't turn over.

As far as i know all the interior electronics are seperate from the ecu so even if they turn on it doesnt neccesarilly mean that the ecu wasnt fried by the idiot driving the tow truck...not even sure how he got the connection backwards since theres a huge freaking red cap over the positive terminal

My coworkers and I overheard a guy on the other side of the wall talking about how he switched polarity on the battery connectors. He literally thought black meant (+), and he said something along the lines that he has been working on cars all his life. Mind = blown.

I can only file it under **** happens, done is done, it's at dealership now being diagnosed. Nervous though

[sigh] I guess you'll just have to walk out with a 2015+ NISMO. ;)

This happeneds alll the time with battery terminals, am sure nissan has prevented anything serious happening to the ECU, but some other devises might be damaged, letting the voltage come from ground where alll of your electronic devices are connected to, means if on the other end the switch is in on position might damage the hardware, also the ECU might lock out to prevent damages until it is reset. Just a thought.

Now am thinking steering wheel locking mech?

It's a 2012 so I wouldn't think lock. Thought that was rectified in or around 09-10. But hey I hope you are right and they can just reset it

Most of the non-drivetrain stuff is controlled by the BCM. ECM and TCM handle the drivetrain. Ie, ECM could be fried but windows would still work.

Starter fried, they can get it started via push, drop clutch. So, not to bad, not good, but not as bad as it could be.

I would be asking the tow company for reimbursement at this point...good thing the ecu wasnt fried, but still not a cheap fix having to replace a starter

Yeah -- wow.

But if it spluttered out coming out of a hard right turn, you probably had fuel starve too.

The failure to turn over issue was just an unrelated problem. I'd check your battery and alternator too as well as inspect fuses.

Connecting the cables on the battery backwards.. not good :/ My friend lent his GTR to someone who did connected the jumper cables on backwards and fried a bunch of electronic modules that had to be replaced before the car started again. May be something similar in this case? Although for my buddies case his friend actually left the cables on sparking for an extended period of time, like 10 or 15 minutes >_>