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-   -   Poked a hole in my radiator.... (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/104602-poked-hole-my-radiator.html)

Push370zzz 06-10-2015 07:44 PM

Poked a hole in my radiator....
 
Was installing the stillen oil cooler. Long story short, my drill slipped and hit the radiator. Is there anything I can do short or replacing the thing? Can I drive it to a shop even?

maizenblue 06-10-2015 09:40 PM

So I assume you hit the radiator good enough to create a leak otherwise no reason to create a thread, correct? In this case if the hole is small I would attempt to cover the hole with a high temp rtv and wait a day for it to cure, and then start the car and see if it leaks. If not then drive it to a shop and replace the radiator. If it does leak immediately, tow it

Push370zzz 06-10-2015 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maizenblue (Post 3225125)
So I assume you hit the radiator good enough to create a leak otherwise no reason to create a thread, correct? In this case if the hole is small I would attempt to cover the hole with a high temp rtv and wait a day for it to cure, and then start the car and see if it leaks. If not then drive it to a shop and replace the radiator. If it does leak immediately, tow it

Yeah right when I hit it there was a ton of gas? that escaped for about 5 minutes. I'm now thinking I just hit the AC condenser and not the radiator. There was a small amount of green liquid that came out and a TON of gas from a the hissing line...

Is there any reason I can't drive it? Seems like I just would be without AC until I fix the condenser.

maizenblue 06-10-2015 09:47 PM

Yeah that sounds like refrigerant. Not so good to breath in. So you hit the condensor not the radiator?

Push370zzz 06-10-2015 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maizenblue (Post 3225130)
Yeah that sounds like refrigerant. Not so good to breath in. So you hit the condensor not the radiator?

I think so...I'm a bit relieved thought I would be out of my upcoming track day but I think I'll be fine just no A/C right? Any reason not to drive it?

maizenblue 06-10-2015 09:52 PM

Cover all your bases. idle the car and make sure you're absolutely certain that nothing else is leaking except refrigerant. Cars roll around all the time with leaking ac.

Push370zzz 06-10-2015 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maizenblue (Post 3225133)
Cover all your bases. idle the car and make sure you're absolutely certain that nothing else is leaking except refrigerant. Cars roll around all the time with leaking ac.

Yeah planning on it. Do you happen to know if I can remove the condenser without removing the radiator?

maizenblue 06-10-2015 10:03 PM

I don't know how exactly it's set up on the Z. But usually the condensor is bolted or has some kind of slide mount to the radiator. So, provided there's enough space to work with and assuming the Z Doesn't do anything stupid, yes the condensor will come off without removing the radiator

1LIFE 06-10-2015 10:24 PM

Radiator and condensor if you end up needing both
http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...10k-miles.html

Elmo370z 06-11-2015 12:15 AM

If its your radiator and you just need to get to a shop crack an egg down tour radiator cap. The yolk will temporarily seal the hole. Seen it done on myth busters for you all who think I'm crazy.

DEpointfive0 06-11-2015 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z (Post 3225191)
If its your radiator and you just need to get to a shop crack an egg down tour radiator cap. The yolk will temporarily seal the hole. Seen it done on myth busters for you all who think I'm crazy.

It's the white


Also, OP, you hit the condenser, not the radiator

Elmo370z 06-11-2015 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 3225205)
It's the white


Also, OP, you hit the condenser, not the radiator

Yeah same thing

DR_ 06-11-2015 08:58 AM

If you are tracking much you will be looking to upgrade the radiator anyway.

CSF Inc. 06-15-2015 11:51 PM

I don't know if they've changed the design recently, but the 370Z/G37 has an interesting design where the radiator and condenser is a 1 piece module. The front row is for AC, and the back row is the radiator... If the design is the same, it doesn't matter which one you hit.. the whole unit would have to be replaced.

need4speed255 06-16-2015 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z (Post 3225191)
If its your radiator and you just need to get to a shop crack an egg down tour radiator cap. The yolk will temporarily seal the hole. Seen it done on myth busters for you all who think I'm crazy.

Yes, you are crazy. It will also plug up everything else in the coolant system. No one should do this unless stranded and it's a life or death situation.

Push370zzz 06-16-2015 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSF Inc. (Post 3230012)
I don't know if they've changed the design recently, but the 370Z/G37 has an interesting design where the radiator and condenser is a 1 piece module. The front row is for AC, and the back row is the radiator... If the design is the same, it doesn't matter which one you hit.. the whole unit would have to be replaced.

Yeah I'm going to remove the unit and take to a repair shop to see if they can fix it. The radiator works great so I refuse to replace it.

synolimit 06-16-2015 11:32 AM

Easy fix!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r66y5hrnFY0

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I3VyheKezIc

Boss_302 06-16-2015 12:00 PM

That aluminium solder may work great for a radiator that has a working pressure of 15 psi +-, but that condenser has a working pressure of a couple of 100 psi. Even TIG might be difficult because the metal is so thin. Good luck

synolimit 06-16-2015 12:10 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Boss_302 (Post 3230469)
That aluminium solder may work great for a radiator that has a working pressure of 15 psi +-, but that condenser has a working pressure of a couple of 100 psi. Even TIG might be difficult because the metal is so thin. Good luck

It's around 47,000 tensile strength. Stronger than even the patent metal. It'll be 100% good to go. Trust me.

Push370zzz 06-17-2015 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3230451)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3230484)
It's around 47,000 tensile strength. Stronger than even the patent metal. It'll be 100% good to go. Trust me.

Haha those videos make it look too easy. I am going to take another look and see exactly what I broke and if I'm not comfortable will try a repair shop around town, they quoted me only $40-50.


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