Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Engine & Drivetrain (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/)
-   -   Which oil cooler is the best? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/104427-oil-cooler-best.html)

Jayhovah 06-06-2017 07:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SG4247 (Post 3661204)
I just finished a 48 row true cool installation.

Drove it to work and back today, 60 miles in 95F ambient temp interstate rush hour traffic and oil was 180-190!

I flogged it hard last night, six consecutive 1/4 mile full throttle blasts and it barely made 230F!

Very pleased as I could make 260-280 with ease prior to the install.

I did the install a little differeently than other cooler DIY on the forum and plan to post the DIY soon.

Did the entire install for about $380.

Best mod so far.
lookin' forward to the DIY!

Rusty 06-06-2017 08:05 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fountainhead (Post 3661031)
I mean in DD situations shouldn't the oil reach at least 200F to boil the water off? If the oil remains too cool then won't the water content cause problems? I guess for DD you get the <25 row.
Once the oil temperature hits around 100F. The water trapped in it starts to evaporate. By the time it gets to 200F. It's gone. Where I retired from. We used to warm the oil to 110F. before operating the equipment. And kept it under 190F. I wrote the SOP on it.

Quicksilvers 06-08-2017 05:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3661287)
Once the oil temperature hits around 100F. The water trapped in it starts to evaporate. By the time it gets to 200F. It's gone. Where I retired from. We used to warm the oil to 110F. before operating the equipment. And kept it under 190F. I wrote the SOP on it.
From what I have read so far the best option is to purchase a oil cooler with the correct row for your 370Z for what you are using it for.

Rusty 06-08-2017 09:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksilvers (Post 3661965)
From what I have read so far the best option is to purchase a oil cooler with the correct row for your 370Z for what you are using it for.
From other peoples experience on here. Get a 34 row cooler, and don't second guess yourself if you should have gone bigger if you had gotten a 19 or 25 row cooler. There have been many times of me reading where people had wish that they didn't go bigger to begin with. A 34 row with a thermostatic plate and you're good to go.

Chuck33079 06-08-2017 09:09 AM
You can always block off a part of the core if it's not getting hot enough. You can't add rows if it's still getting too hot.

Felix 808 08-18-2017 09:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3661287)
Once the oil temperature hits around 100F. The water trapped in it starts to evaporate. By the time it gets to 200F. It's gone. Where I retired from. We used to warm the oil to 110F. before operating the equipment. And kept it under 190F. I wrote the SOP on it.
Yep once water begins to boil, it changes state to steam & can not get any hotter in liquid form. Pressure in the pan is not enough to raise the boiling temp more than just a few degrees so as Rusty states 110 Deg F is more than adequate to boil off the water. Also most modern oils / Synthetics are designed to flow/protect at very low temps ;)

valleyZ 08-18-2017 12:07 PM
if you're looking into stillen they're having 15% off just a heads up.

Rusty 08-19-2017 12:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Felix 808 (Post 3686339)
Yep once water begins to boil, it changes state to steam & can not get any hotter in liquid form. Pressure in the pan is not enough to raise the boiling temp more than just a few degrees so as Rusty states 110 Deg F is more than adequate to boil off the water. Also most modern oils / Synthetics are designed to flow/protect at very low temps ;)
You're close. ;) You should work in a power plant. Have water temps as high as 1,500F, steam temps of 2,000F. To get water temps that high. You have to have it under pressure. Pressures high as 3,000 psi. To get temps that high. Most use a 3 element boilers. For our discussion. Water starts to evaporate at around 100F. By 212F, it's boiling. And the little moisture that is trapped in the oil will be gone at around 150F to 170F. Unless you have popped a head gasket. :icon14:

Felix 808 08-20-2017 12:35 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3686624)
You're close. ;) You should work in a power plant. Have water temps as high as 1,500F, steam temps of 2,000F. To get water temps that high. You have to have it under pressure. Pressures high as 3,000 psi. To get temps that high. Most use a 3 element boilers. For our discussion. Water starts to evaporate at around 100F. By 212F, it's boiling. And the little moisture that is trapped in the oil will be gone at around 150F to 170F. Unless you have popped a head gasket. :icon14:
Yep the pressure makes all the difference, the same as you can boil water at 0 Deg in a vacuum ;)

Rusty 08-20-2017 01:38 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Felix 808 (Post 3686795)
Yep the pressure makes all the difference, the same as you can boil water at 0 Deg in a vacuum ;)
:rofl2: Yeah, I used to do that trick when teaching noobs on making steam for power generation. Teaching steam tables was a headache. And to get across the difference between wet steam and dry steam.

Spartan 1771 10-01-2017 01:52 PM
This past spring I installed a Mishimoto Oil Cooler with the basic sandwich plate. The cooler works very well, but it's a bit of an issue on cold mornings. The temp has a hard time getting up to 185. I need to devise a cover for the cooler and I was actually considering wrapping it in tin foil and then using a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place. Is this a terrible idea?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Rusty 10-01-2017 02:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan 1771 (Post 3697197)
This past spring I installed a Mishimoto Oil Cooler with the basic sandwich plate. The cooler works very well, but it's a bit of an issue on cold mornings. The temp has a hard time getting up to 185. I need to devise a cover for the cooler and I was actually considering wrapping it in tin foil and then using a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place. Is this a terrible idea?

Thanks for the help in advance.
No problem with that. I just use duct tape.

Spartan 1771 10-01-2017 02:19 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3697202)
No problem with that. I just use duct tape.
Ibwas considering that, but I was afraid it was make a real mess in the spring when I remove it.

echoshotz 10-01-2017 03:45 PM
I put velcro on the edges of the oil cooler with adhesive and bought small aluminum panels from home depot and attached the other side of the velcro to them. Made a small panel and a big panel, so I can still block off all/none/some of the oil cooler

socce 10-01-2017 05:19 PM
How long it should take someone who knows what they are doing to install a z1 25 row setrabo oil cooler with the sandwich plate ?


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