double tee's?? Lots going on down there. Info?

It's my 34row coolers in parallel, lol. One on each side and Zele front bumper for them to get cool air.


iPhone

Phunk,
Does this tab for the undertray mounting need to come all the way off?
I should have test fitted it before I put the 3 bond on it. I had to clean it off due to it trying to setup while I was trying to figure
out why it wouldn't line up.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psqf5jhddm.jpg

You can bend it out of the way, or cut it off. That's what I did with my AM Perf. pan.

I had to temporarily bend it out of the way to install my Wolf pan spacer but I was able to bend it back after install to keep the mounting point for the tray. It was the only way to get access to that pan bolt.

That in play here or does it absolutely have to be permanently moved?

It's gotta go. I will deal with it in a few. I need some more RTV, a trip to the parts store is in order.

So it actually contacts the pan? If so I would just shave the edge off of it so you can keep the mounting point.

Ouch, that is an oversight on my part. Those mounting points on my car were cut off and filed flush going back 5+ years ago (Greddy oil pan or spacers require it also). I entirely forgot they were there or I would have made mention of this to save you from finding out the hard way and having to back track. My sincere apologies on this, that's a little embarrassing to have missed.

This undertray will still be functional without that bolt, I always ran it even though I had to remove the tab on both sides.

phunk, everyone I know who has a spacer or AM Perf pan have either cut that tab off, or bent it away. ;)

For sure... I know it is inevitable! I just wish I would have caught it so I could let people know and they would come in it to it prepared to do that.

You wanted pictures, here you go...

If you have never done one of these the lower pan can be a battle to get off. You almost always will nick the sealing surface a little. Just make sure you de-burr it. You don't want any high spots.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...pskpflxfe3.jpg


I used Nissan 3 Bond. I had some from when I replaced a valve cover on my wifes car. Just put a bead all the way around and smooth it down with your finger. Don't worry about the little bit that get's in the bolt holes.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psl2rkf3h0.jpg

3 Bond Bead before I smoothed it out.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psrbpgd6gs.jpg

Notice the little bead all the way around the pan when I tightened it up. You don't need RTV oozing out.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psmoz2vkzo.jpg

Now for the finished product without that damn tab. I had to run to the parts
store, I was out of cutoff wheels and thought I was out of 3 Bond. I found some more once I bought some new stuff as usual.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psdgjvxghe.jpg

Here is the pan after the unboxing.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psaanxtvsb.jpg

Bag o parts.

http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/...psmngmtmq9.jpg

Then the fun started..... Z1 oil cooler install. Gonna finish that up tomorrow, I need to pick up some antifreeze.

In that 2nd pic from the top. You got enough rtv for 2 pans. :icon17:

Excellent!

It's not that thick. LOL I have done so many front cover jobs in my past it is not even funny. You know the 12hr ones just to replace the 2 orings that go from the front cover to the oil pump. KA24DE, VG30DE, KA24E, etc. That's why my shoulders are shot. Working over my head all day holding air ratchets. They sound like I have gravel in them.

I know those type of jobs. Take all day just to get to the piece that needs replaced. Then take another day to button it up.

:icon17: I always hated working over head. Try welding overhead for 12hr a day. :shakes head: Glad I no longer do that. :icon17: