Help! Really unusual engine or ecu problem.
 

about 2 months ago, I was driving and I was climbing rpm to around 3500, my car began to lock up and cut power then come back. This occurred through various gears, so I parked my car and left it for the night. The next morning there was no problem. Then last night, after washing my car, I went to go drive it and the same exact thing began to occur, considering how dangerous it is for the car to lock up in the middle of driving randomly, i pulled over and restarted the car. The problem however continued. I managed to get it home and upon starting it this morning I havent experienced the problem (my morning commute is short however).

This issue is seriously sketching me out and i have found limited info on the issue on the web (granted its really hard to describe). Anyone have any ideas/suggestions? It strikes me as a serious issue. The car is a 6spd,sport pack,2009 with 50k miles on it

Also, I think that its unusual that the problem went dormant for 2 months then came back.

I did find this thread: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...eason-all.html but it doesnt seem like there is a proper solution.

I can't help.

My recommendation is to take videos while you're driving, show all the gauges too.

I would but the problem happens sporadically so i cant predict when it will happen. Oil temp was normal though, as was coolant temp. No CEL or anything either. Im super confused because i dont even have anything to bring to the dealer or a mechanic since its not a consistent problem.

dont know if work... but do you clean your throttles? take a look to see if the throttles are dirty or not...

That seems like a good idea. I was wondering about this possibility as well.

Do it and let us know if you can resolve the problem bro ;)

Will do, thank you man

If it cuts power violently then comes back, might wanna try your intakes. Same problem happened with my Z with my AEM intakes and when I swapped out to the stock ones it was fine again :/ Problem plagued me for like a year before I figured it out, tried spark plugs, coil packs, cleaning throttle bodies, everything lol

Jesus, take it to a mechanic. Having your car randomly die is serious and dangerous.

Hmm thats interesting. My intake system is stock but i have a stillen CBE. If its air related I wonder what caused that reaction?

I agree but its difficult for a mechanic to prescribe a solution when the problem isnt readily seen when they get it. The only way that would work is if i spent a boatload of money for the mech to inspect and replace various parts on the car which doesn't really show a good cost-benefit advantage here. As a broke college student, this option isnt even possible for me lol

Feels like fuel cut out by any chance? Engine light on? Codes maybe?

Hm if it's a stock intake, I wouldn't really worry about the CBE. In my experience problems like this are usually more related to induction, and not so much the exhaust side of things. I could be wrong though

I'm not sure about fuel cut out but there was no cel or anything like that. I read somewhere about oil being an issue too. Anyone heard of that?


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I'd get an OBD/CAN scanner tool and take a look at any error codes that may show up. Not all errors throw a CEL.

A possibility that is easy to fix is dirty MAFs. Four small screws and a can of MAF cleaner. There are several DIYs on this site.

Check the brake pedal switches. If they are out of adjustment the ecu will think you're pushing the brake and the gas at the same time and override the accelerator input.

I actually have one so i will go check it out tonight. I wasnt aware that notifications would be given without CEL, good to know.

Im sorry, I dont know how to do this. What do you mean by checking the switches?

At the brake pedal under the dash there are switches that are activated when the brake pedal gets pressed. If the lame brackets they are mounted to get bent or are out of adjustment, they could activate when the brake pedal is barely depressed or not depressed at all, causing the ecu to think you are pressing the brake and the gas at the same time, and when this happens, the ecu will always cut engine torque to allow for the braking.

Okay I see, thank you for the explanation. I will go and inspect it to see if that could be the root of the problem.

So I inspected the brake pedal and its sensors, everything seemed normal. I also scanned via obd2 and no codes were thrown. Im not really sure what else to do other than remove the TB's and check out the MAF sensors.

Well at least its one thing less that could be a problem.

i had a similar issue. When you say power, you mean absolutely no lights or power are coming on at all? or does it come on but wont crank? If power isn't consistent check the terminals of battery and do battery test.

If the power is coming on but it wont turn over some times you have have an issue with VVEL sensor or Module. The check engine light may not be on because the ecu is being drained of the power if it is the first issue I mentioned about battery, however, you can pull up the codes (pending & history) to see if there were any codes.. Do not clear until you fix the issue.