Okay, see this pic:
http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...ilter-view.jpg

The top of my core sits right below the silver tow hook loop thingy. That should give you an idea.

:iagree:

Not a conflict IMO..

The 34-row will come up to just below the front crash bar, so looks like it should just fit.

+rep :tup:

Hmm...34-row? Have you taken a look at MightBobo's DIY on the 25-row? http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...il-cooler.html
I mention this because he discovered the 25-row was actually too big and required some cutting on one of the corners! (My street-version is only 19-row.)

This pic is from his thread:
http://images52.fotki.com/v642/photo...MG_0574-vi.jpg

I think it was because of how Stillen wanted you to mount it. The Nissan Motorsport kit is a 34-row Setrab and mounts directly to the plastic brace at the bottom with a right angle bracket. If set back at the correct distance it shouldn't have that problem.

Here's a picture of one being installed (by Z1Motorsport).
http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...lled.sized.jpg

Wow. That thing is huge! Now that I see it, I understand why you were worried about the G3s, lol. I think it'll fit. It'll be tight, but it'll fit (hopefully).

I don't mean to interrupt the current discussion, but I was hoping this thread could be a source for all of us with oil coolers in cold climates.

I can say with experience that blocking the air flow allows oil temps to rise like it did without an oil cooler. The only difference is that oil temps will not go higher than 210 or 220 degrees even when blocked.

Can someone come up with an eloquent, easy to install and remove solution?

gaffers tape from permacel and pro gaffer

Sorry... I had to.

I actually may end up doing just that. I have a black car, and I'm not that image conscious. If I just have to tape it up when I leave the track once a month, it's not a big deal...

Where is the oil temp sensor on our cars located?
The reason I ask is, I wonder if the thermostat's are starting to open to soon because they are in direct contact with the block? Possible?

I also saw that Jagg Oil Coolers makes a manual bypass ($65 Model 4000). Install it in the lines up front, reach into the grill to turn it on or off 100% bypass. Drawback is no AN fittings. Bummer.

http://www.the370z.com/members/semte...2-p1000856.jpg

See that gold/brass looking piece in the picture? That's the oil temp sensor.

Here's the exploded view from the service manual:
http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/t...9-102739AM.jpg

As the Mocal thermostat is mechanical this doesn't seem likely given the rate of oil flow through it.

Yep, after seeing the location of the sensor I understand. My thought was, having a remote inline thermostat, further from the block, may restrict the flow for longer than the t-stat sitting on the side of the block. But the temp sensor is right next to the sandwich plate ,so the reading should be very close to what the thermostat is also seeing. Oh well....next

The Mocal adapter appears to have a spring in it. Can you shim the spring or shorten the spring to change the temperature setting? I'd like to see what is inside. The other brand of sandwich adapters(perma-cool,hayden,transdapt,earls,derale and canton) don't seem to have a way to get inside.

Probably not a good idea. Most performance shop only carry the 180 degree model, but a 203 degree version is available from the distributor..

Keep in mind, either will constantly bleed oil to the cooler as discussed earlier:


http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.p...t1=Get+Pricing

My Core size (similar to the Stillen) and 180 stat result in temps from 180 to 210 under most all conditions. I get very slight overcooling (175) on a cool day, cruising at speed. If I lived in a colder envoirnment and didn't track the car I think I might consider a smaller core and the 203 degree plate. This would take the edge off the temps at the high end in the summer, but not overcool in the winter...Just a thought..