Idle Drop?
 

So I looked at a few threads unfortunately I wasn't able to find the exact problem that I am experiencing, (Please point me to it incase I missed it)
Anyway on startup my car kinda chokes at idle after the rpms from the startup drop down. it chokes, rpms go low like its going to turn off but pulls through. I have Berk HFC topspeed cbe no tune could it be the MAFS? I have 10k on the car.

I had the same problem couple months back. After the initial rev of the ignition, the RPM drops and it chokes for a split second and idles normally afterward. It stopped doing that after about a week of normal use. I hope it doesn't come back; and if it does, hope it's something minor. I have 33k on the car.

Idle Drop?
 

I've had this issue happen lots of times . I've had times that it would choke and die on me and I would have to start (rare occasions) my car again. My 370z has 94k miles. Check your throttle bodies and clean them.


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try cleaning MAF sensors, and TBs. Since your car is still new, it cant be a low battery.

It could be a case of a bad fuel too. Or Maf sensor.
But with only 10 k miles you probably need to drive the car often and let it open up few times. To clean the TB with gunk.

clean throttle bodies and perform idle air relearn procedure and the throttle rest position resets. you should also do the gas pedal rest position learning too but from memorry you have to do all three in a certain order anyway

Had the same problem as you guys and i finally had some time to check it out. I pulled out and cleaned my throttles and the idle drop is gone :) All that dirt is blocking the openning when the throttles are closed so there is not enough air for the car to idle normal. If you guys have any questions on how to clean them let me know and I wil be more than happy to help.

Actually yeah... do you have a setup for how to clean throttle bodies on the 370z?

I'm in Elgin too btw... care to help a brother out? :stirthepot:

It's pretty easy. I recommend removing the TBs for cleaning, but it's not 100% necessary. Use CRC Throttle Body Cleaner. Might as well do the MAFs while you're at it. Use CRC MAF Cleaner for them. You can find both at your local auto parts store.

what JARblur said - it's pretty straight forward and i recommend you perform the coolant line delete on both sides while you're there because they get in the way. The hardest part is the bolts underneath - you need some long hex sockets.

Try not to manually actuate the throttle flap if yours isnt too soiled because that's how a lot of people encountered problems. You wont need to reset anything or do any relearns if you dont disconnect the harness to the TB. BUT i highly recommend you follow the 3 relearn steps word by word because it makes a huge difference to idle stability.
I know this goes against my advice but i could see a lot of hard carbon where the flap meets the throat of the TB so i manually operated the flap and wedged it open with a
rolled rag while i cleaned each half plus the edge of the flap itself. I also had the TBs disconnected from the harnesses too - tread carefully!

Good info juld0zer. I did the coolant line delete as well since I'm in hot climate. It was easy enough I can't recall any difficulties I didn't already anticipate after reading your various posts on the matter.

I also moved the butterfly valve manually to clean it thoroughly. We did this on three different Z's in my driveway. Did the relearn on all three with no issues.

I personally like to take them out compleatly its pretty easy. Make sure the engine is not hot so coolant does not splash out of the lines. I used CRC TB cleaner and a rag (you will need to do a little scrubing not just spray the cleaner). Make sure not to move around the flap too much, just hold it open all tne time. There is 2 hoses, 1 connector, and 4 fasteners (15mm hex if i remember right). :) I hope thats helpful

5mm you mean?

It helps to remove the airbox or at least the accordion pipes/intake piping too.

Those who haven't got coolant bypass mod, i recommend a pile of rags under TB to catch the otherwise sticky and staining coolant that will come out

Good point. I picked up a couple of packages of mixed brushes I found in the paint aisle (like $2.99 at Walmart for each package). They are designed for removing finishes. Each package had three brushes with one being stiff stainless, one being medium stiff brass, and one being light stiff plastic polymer. I used the light and medium ones with great success.