Yellow "Key" light after engine swap
 

After swapping my built motor in and hooking everything up I get this yellow light which is the "Intelligent Key" light. The car will come on with accessory lights but when clutch is pressed and start button is pressed it shuts down everything.

The fob allows me to lock and unlock the car so it is still communicating with it.

I did try to start it the first time with the manifold off, fuel injector harness unplugged, and the spark plugs out, so I could lube everything up internally without pressure before it actually was running. After it did the key light to me i hooked everything up thinking it is sensing that sensors are unplugged. But, got the same results.

Do I need to tow this to a dealer to reprogram the key to the car? Is there any other way or "trick" to getting this yellow key light off and allowing the car to start?

Wondering if anyone with an engine swap has encountered this.

Also, Could I try an ECU reset? Or would this throw my current Uprev Map back to default?

When the famous "wheel lock" issue happens can you still turn the wheel?

Wont start after new motor dropped in
 

Car doesnt start. Everything shuts off after second push. No cel light comes on with accesory on even though every other light is on.

Also my bluetooth obd wont connect and says it cant find ecu. But it works fine on my ridgeline.

Any ideas?

Not sure, why fob is acting up. I've done swap but never unplugged everything to bump it. ECU had a heart attack. Like getting legs blown off. If reset doesn't work I dont have an answer.

No, your MAP will still be there.

No, when wheel lock happens you wont be able to turn wheel. Need to make a bypass for it. DIY has a thread for it

I would and tried the reset but you need a cel light to do it and one wont show up on the dash. Also my bluetooth obd wont connect stating no ecu detected.

Not reading ECU sounds like a ground. Man this sucks, I hate trouble shooting from a laptop. Wish i was there.

Did you disconnect harness from motor, or pull connections from fuse box.

If you pulled from fuse box to get motor out, sounds like the clips might not be fully seated.

Sorry man, I'm on muscle relaxers and trying to focus. Excuse my typing

Hello

What is second push? I am assuming ignition, on my 370z clutch in one press turns it on. Second would turn it off. No clutch two pushes only takes it to accessory on.

Is the car trying to turn over, does it ever turn over or just starter noise?
Cars only need fuel spark and air to run, so elimating what it does have is a good start for troubleshooting the problem.

Being that its a new motor, I would be curious if timing was set to TDC, if it turns over then shuts off. I have not searched to see if the z if an interfereance motor, but if it is you can damage stuff if timing is wrong.

If it comes on with a SES light, the immobalizer could be the issue. Remove the batter term for a min and try again. If not I assume a dealer visit to remove error. In the world of Hondas, the k swap requires Imm. to be disabled before they will run, if stock ect is used.


Found this basic t/s link on this forum also:: Why a car won't start - troubleshooting tips

Lol. Its all good man. I'm just glad your helping.

So my obd is definitely not working. Tried connecting osiris and it wont connect, stating no ecu detected.

Ill look closer at the ecu tomorrow and look at grounds.

Since OBD/CAN is out, I suspect one or more ECM connectors.

FWIW: You can have ESCL failure with the steering wheel free. The locking pin retracts but does not make the internal switches.

Edit: It could be a bad CAN wire - you may have cut and/or grounded one of the signal wires. The FSM has wiring diagrams and connector pinouts.

No need for two threads

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...gine-swap.html

I agree.

Threads have been merged.

The car wont even attempt to start. I first push the button to turn on acc. Then I push it again and hear a faint click then all gauges turn off and car acts the same as if you were to have just shut it off.

I pulled the entire harness out of the fire wall.

Tomorrow ill look at all grounds and fuses.

i think you have to disable NATS on the ecu?

Haha, my message looks out of place with the thread merge. Good luck with your car, maybe post s vid when it's broken in. :)

How can I disable NATS if I cant connect with the OBD port?

You can tap into CAN a lot of places but you may have to splice some wires. If you are using the same BCM and ECM, NATS shouldn't be the problem. My money is on the wiring/connectors. YMMV

Does the ecu need a ground wire directly off of it or is it ran into the fuse box?

Comes out fuse box and goes to neg battery.

Was going to see how it was going. I agree with SouthArk.

Does anybody have a schematic of the ECU power? I seen it was grounded properly under the carpeting. I looked at all my fuses and none are blown.

I checked the IPDM box, the main fuse box by the that and the fuse box under the steering wheel.

However, I never did find an "ecu" or "ecm" fuse.

Does anyone know where this is located?

Or if they call it by a different name?

The FSM has wiring diagrams, pinouts, physical locations, and more.

Whats the word? Got it running boss!

MAN I WISH!! I have checked every fuse, found the grounds and power and have researched pages and pages of the FSM. I have a buddy who is a Honda tech that is coming over on Saturday to take a look. If that all fails then its off to Nissan dealer. Who can then make sure my key fob is programmed to the ecu still. If that fails my next step is a new ECU.

This is killing me....

If you have some spare time before your buddy gets there, I'd unplug all the connectors on the ECM and BCM, check the pins for damage, and plug back in. You may have trapped some dirt on a pin or bent one.

Edit: If that doesn't work, I'd next do the same with the key/immobilizer circuit.

You have been very patient. I think I would have lost my mind. My car is a daily driver, I always plan these projects for the weekend so my wife can got to work on Monday. When something goes wrong it suck. Thats when we feel like the image below.

Truly wish you luck!

Hahaha!!...I showed guys at work this.

Finally!!! It was the connector from the engine bay by the firewall under the boot. I didn't even know they split there. It wasn't snapped together all the way. Car started up perfectly. First time ive driven it in 7 months. Built motor. Ready for some serious boost soon!