So do the rotary switches pop off without desoldering or do they simply pop up slightly? If not completely how much do they pop off? Thanks

It only pops up slightly. It has been too long. Start by desoldering the switch pins.

Great job.

Just wanted to say that I finally did a write up of how to change the LEDs in the side markers. :)

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post3148322

So the gauge cluster LEDs are PLCC-4, but you used PLCC-2? Just ordered a JDM cluster to practice on and get right. I'm going to attempt to black out the LCDs completely to prevent light bleed while allowing the numbers to pass through. I can't tell if your photos are just overexposed or if it really is that bright.

I'd like my stock cluster to match my triple meters as much as possible, since I'm about to grab the new Defi A1 gauges for replacements.

It's over exposed. Camera has a lot of trouble with these shots. It's about the same brightness as OEM. I used PLCC2 and masked out the extra pads. More power to you if you can get the PLCC4 LEDs.

Thanks for the reply, I enjoy seeing your work.

So if the photos are overexposed, the LCD backgrounds are actually black? Forgive me here, it's been a year since I've seen my Z. :(

Was any functionality lost between using PLCC-2? I wasn't sure if the other two anodes would be used for a certain reason.

None I can think of. I think it's just mechanical. A single pin should be plenty to handle the minuscule power requirement of each LED. I've had this setup for years and never had to fix an LED. The background of the MFD is black while the S-Mode and odometer background is blue.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement orange ambient light for the dome assembly? I asked the dealership and they didn't know what I was talking about and I can't seem to find one anywhere else on Google.

Thanks to DIGI for the photo assistance that helped a bunch in my project.

From personal experience, this project is a bit more difficult than normal PLCC-2 projects. PLCC-4 LEDs have such small contact pads that require precise movement and soldering. I use a very fine pair of tweezers and an 898D soldering/hot air rework station. The soldering tip I use is a needle point and my hot air reflow tip is about 3mm.

The color is relatively close, being a cool white, but they're not to my liking. I'd like to darken the background of the LCD readouts while also reversing polarity of the information LCD. I'd rather have the numbers and letters be lit rather than the background. Not sure how it'll work, though, since the temp and fuel level dots are on the same LCD as the readout. I also have plans to experiment with the orange colored plastic around the LCD information center. I think I want to experiment with red LEDs behind them to give them a red glow rather than orange. I like the contrast of it instead of also being white. I'll update in the future if anyone wishes.

I used CREE PLCC-4 LEDs. Note the irregular lighting of the center gauge in the top-right corner. I replaced one of the original white LEDs with a cree to confirm color temp. The CREE LEDs are substantially brighter. If I follow through with this on my actual gauge cluster, I may replace all the standard white ones as well to achieve a more crisp cool white.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...A1AWKWCXAYB153

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8679/2...d0288828_c.jpg

It's a 3mm round LED. Mouser, Digikey, Ebay, etc.

This is dope man����
Wish I could do this, wish it came at least white instead of that amber/orange

I've been looking for someone to do this for me. Do you have a price write-up for each section? (kick boards, door panel, steering wheel, ect.)

Mirror LED
 

I was able to change all LEDs but how did you change the LED under the locked mirror.

Hi there. Could you help me please? I have burned lights on my rpm gauge I think the two upper light from 4000rpm to 7000rpm. I want to know what is the part or light model same as oem lights? I should go?

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