white stuff? or everything else? there is a lot of rust proofing going on everywhere because I did it myself this year LOL... the white stuff is white lithium grease I sprayed to make the bushing go in easier after I froze it for a couple of hours in the freezer. worked great!

the grease is to lube up the large middle bushing before you push it into the subframe.

Tracy Ramsey

the back of the grease pack says it should be used for parts that are intended to move after they're installed. You might be right but I put it around the metal pieces.

Tackled this the past two days. My take-aways:

• Have a reciprocating saw for the center bushing. Thought I could handle it with a manually operated 24T hand saw... yeah, no.
  
• It's possible to crack loose nuts and bolts attached to driveshaft and other miscellaneous rear parts without power tools. The downside is that you'll be sore but it's a great work out.
  
• Eye pro. I used the wrap-around kind that has foam that won't let any shards in. As said before when you're drilling through the center differential you'll have silicone and metal shavings falling on you.
  
• Most difficult/time-consuming process were taking out the old center bushing, installing the new bushing and positioning the differential back into place (OMG).
  
• If you got a new differential cover it'll come with a vent pipe with an angle cut end. I used the open side of a 3/4" wrench (turn the wrench sideways and be cautious as to not hit and bend the pipe) and hammered away around the base until it seated flush.
  
• If you have the Fast Intentions TDX cat-back exhaust and got the Z1 Motorsports upgraded differential cover the massive fins may be in the way of one or both of the pipes behind the mufflers. Not to the point where the install is impossible (hopefully) but it'll get you worried.

There you have it. The job is mostly time-consuming and not difficult; just absolutely atrociously frustrating. :facepalm:

It does not sound like fun at all. I'm planning on having the Quaife differential put in this spring along with new Whiteline bushings. I'll probably have the guys at Z1 do the work and have the car tuned while I'm there.

Thanks for the info! +1 Rep for you.

I didnt see any mention of marking the bolts and position of the driveshaft and the axle shafts. Should those be marked so that they are in the same exact position as removed? Is it important?

I have removed the driveshaft multiple time and have never marked the driveshaft bolts or position prior to removing them. You take the hand break off and spin the tires to line the bolt holes up.

YzGyz

What about the axle shafts?

I didn't mark that either. I didn't notice if my shop did it or not either. I did come round back to watch late though. I could of miss them doing it. I really don't see why you would need to. What happens if you buy a new rear axle? Those are not marked and you don't have to replace both at the same time. You simple unbolt the old and slap on the new.

YzGyz

Thanks for the diy! I had never done anything involving a diff but this helped and the job is pretty straight forward and fun!

Anyways the center bushing was the most time consuming.
I used a hole saw to take out the middle piece but there are some tough parts in the bushing. I used a small drill bit to make holes along the outline of the hole saw to make it a bit easier.

To put in the whiteline bushing i just greased it up and used a hose clamp like the ones you would use on aftermarket intakes. Just tighten the hose clamp along the center of the bushing to squeeze it, then it slides in pretty easy with a hammer or mallet. The clamp slides off as the bushing goes into the subframe.

I wouldve taken pictures but i honestly wasnt sure if my method would even work :/

Thanks for the DIY, just installed my whiteline diff bushings yesterday, like everyone mentioned the center bushing was the most time consuming. I found a pencil grinder with a course burr bit worked the best for removing the old bushing(very messy though) then used a reciprocating saw to cut out the old steel ring.

Huge difference with the new bushing installed, no rattle what so ever, and next to no wheel hope. excellent upgrade!!

Did mine last week, also found the DIY incredibly helpful. I drilled enough of the rubber away to get a saws-all in, cut the metal ring and the whole thing just fell out. Definitely used 2 door stryke plates and the diff washers to press the bushing in. Cant thank OP enough.

I took your idea but like some others, did not want to sacrifice a socket... I found this little pipe coupling in the plumbing department of the hardware store... it was a couple of bucks.

I drilled a hole through it so I could flip it 180 degrees to make sure I was tapping the vent tube in evenly. Worked great, thanks for the idea.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1484193497

Thank you!
 

I know this is an old thread but wanted to bump it and share my experience.
Thanks OP for posting, and others for comments as well.

Noticed fluid residue on the diff cover so decided to tackle. Purchased it on Amazon for $95 and got it in 2 days. Compared to Z1 or other vendors, total price was cheapest and shipping was quickest.
Just got it done over the weekend with a friend. Having a lift made everything much easier of course, but it is not critical for clearance.

Few installation notes:
- We marked all 3 flanges and axles/ds to get it back to where it was. Worth noting that I had swapped a vlsd into my base where you can't really put it in exactly as it was to original, but I had no issues before this install and wanted to keep it that way.
- Removal: used a bushing puller for the fronts, and drill + saw for the subframe mount. There is a metallic piece that comes out with the rubber bushing, but don't confuse this with the steel plate that needs to come out.
- install was easy peasy, used included grease and pressed in by hand mostly, the subframe bushing pulls in when installing bolt to diff.
- followed the included instructions to dispose of the top plates (iirc) on front mounts.
- It was the first time doing this job for both of us, but my friend is an Infiniti master tech so he knew his way around the car and his tools. Took us about 2hrs total. Perhaps worth noting that rear braces and exhaust were removed/installed not too long ago so we had nothing seized.

Impressions:
Got rid of the thud noise under hard shifting - no matter how hard I shift there is zero noise.
On/Off throttle moments seem tighter, drivetrain slop has definitely improved - makes me want to go further with trans mount.
Haven't noticed any change in NVH - perhaps the exhaust sounds slightly louder, but I reused the exhaust gaskets so will be checking for leaks next time.
Definitely recommend this one, especially if you're capable with DIYs. Bang for buck is very high on this one.