Adding my quick video to this old DIY rear differential bushing and Finned NISMO cover swap. The movie is a little Blair Which but together with the instructions above, you get a really good idea of what and how to do it.
Job was not really hard. I would say it's a 4/10. Swapping the transmission and to swap the clutch csc is a 9/10.

It took me an estimated 5 hrs as I was making the video, working alone for the most part.

Tools needed
-SAFETY GLASSES!!! For the love of Jeebus have safety glasses. That rear bushing sprays some nasty junk when you drill and cut it. I had liquid and rubber stuff everywhere!!
-socket set, I used a few 1/2'', 3/8" exstensions, breaker bar, cheater bar (I used the handle of my other floor jack), wobble adapter, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, pliers, screw driver, bottle jack, cutting tool, drill with spade bit as the screw type broke on me, hammer, sledge hammer (I used a 20lb dumbbell to knock the old bushing of the diff after flipping it over), probably missing a few more tools.
-Mat to lay on or creeper
-jack stand, jack, chocks
-something to ties things with
-pry BAR
-hex keys to break open the fill and drain plug

1-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAtgvAYw-8Q
2-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sT8geSsAGes
3-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5kw2IDwgsg
4-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQyAkW70_Ng
5-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4AZ38mUn8k
6-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMyx8_WW-6Y
7-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLuQFl2mu4c
8-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNgYlGMGg6A
9-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlhoTCILr8s

How can you tell the oem bushing has failed?

Mine was not leaking when I swapped it out. I would think you will hear a cluck? See the fluid leak onto something? See it excessively squished? The rubber is cracked?

Click on the link for video 7. At the end of the video, I zoom into the bushing that is in the frame. You can see the bushing has already started to dry out and crack.

I personally would not change it unless you plan to drive a lot more power to the ground or it has failed. It was a good amount of work, easy but a lot of work.

YzGyz

Seriously, what was nissan thinking!@# Replacing the entire subframe member seems asinine given all the extra things that have to come off. On an older car there is also risk of some of these additional parts breaking in the course of removal. Not to mention having to do an alignment.

My only suggestion is to make sure everything is properly marked before removal, including the drive shaft (mentioned in the OP) and the half shafts.

How heavy was the diff unit itself (vlsd?) ?

M guess would be 65lbs? ? It's jus awkward to carry so I can't give a good estimate.

YzGyz

Excellent write up OP.

I would be one of those types to pay someone to do this. Lack of tools, time, and age are my limitations.

The pains of old age. It's always that quote that sings true, "The mind is willing but the body is not." It's such a sad thing, especially when they are talking about sex. :roflpuke2: :leghump: Like stated before, I would leave the OEM alone unless something is going wrong or you want to drive the power down to the ground.

YzGyz

Giving this some more thought, there is actually merit in replacing the entire subframe if it's not on your dime.

There are other bushings in the subframe that wear and would contribute to diminished chassis characteristics (loose feeling). If the repair is covered under warranty or extended warranty, let them replace the entire assembly. It's my understanding the new subframe comes with all the bushings (inc diff bushing) pre-installed. Seems like a win win case.

:icon18:

I just turned 50 and still getting nookie!! :icon18:

Here is a very simple tool that I fabricated ( Took me 15 minutes to do a good fabrication job) in order to drive that stupid vent pipe into the Nismo diff cover. This tool works every time rather that getting my head beat out banging the breather pipe in while trying to align it.

Simply take your 3/8 inch drive 9mm socket and carefully cut out the part shown in order to accommodate the part of the pipe sticking up. Drive the breather pipe in nice and straight.....

http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/...pshrnpjo3b.jpg

I did not want to sacrifice a tool since I'm only going to do it once. That defiantly works better.

YzGyz

It's all right. My 9mm deep sat around for the past 20 years untouched. Never had a need for a 9mm so might as well have some use of out it after all.

I just did this over the weekend, and thought I would add something to make the next person's job easier.

Torque settings.

2 Front diff mounts - 76 ft/lbs
1 Rear diff mount - 81 ft/lbs
Driveshaft to diff - 51 ft/lbs
Stub axles to diff - 59 ft/lbs

There...I just saved you 30 mins of looking things up ;-)

Tracy Ramsey

good stuff zausky. :tup:

shops would give you '2 sec zip', '3 sec zip', etc. lol

I used the "bout tight" method, as in "that feels bout tight".

That being said I have now done a few of these and i can get them done on jack stands in under 4 hours. Not bad.