Yes. I did notice that most like to use Redline diff fluid. I've using Mobile 1 motor oil for many years also. So don't mind using the diff fluid as long as it is oem quality. thanks.

As per JARblue, for a DD, any major-brand/high-quality lube will work quite well. For non-DD applications, there are plenty of which-oil-is-best threads on this site (and others) already - Search is your friend.

I used a Siphon pump the first time I did a oil change on it, but this time I made a pump kit, works way better, IMO used it for both the tranny and diff. I got a new clean pump from Starbucks, the ones they use for syrup, cut the tube down to fit, and drilled out the top of a Redline oil 1Qt. bottle. Done.
The pump end is log enough to go into the Tranny/Diff and you just push the bottle up and down. worked great!

Just got done changing my rear diff. fluid. Pretty much straight forward and similar process, if not the same, as my old 350Z. The only minor issue I had was the 370Z seems have to have less space when getting to the Fill Hole, as getting a torque wrench was impossible and I had to just use a longer rachet.

regarding the pump, i used the one were you can screw on the top of the bottle, much like the above user mentioned with the starbucks ones. the problem with these pumps is that there's really no wiggle room underneath the car (and my car is stock height) and your arm will get really tired after a few pumps.

the other thing is with my 350Z, i jacked up all for sides of my car, which ended up taking me an hour. with the 370Z, i just jacked up the driver rear side, drained the fluid, and refilled. I then lowered the car without the Fill Plug to let any excess go into the oil container (I had a oil container low enough to where it fit under the car even when car wasn't on a jack). Once all the excess drained out, raised the car, and placed the Fill Plug.

My educated guess is that the pint that is unable to drain unless you take the whole diff cover off, that remains after draining the majority of oil out of the drain plug, has finally been diluted down after a few changes and the fluid looks much cleaner now.

I plan on doing my first diff change next week, 15k miles on my 2012. I am picking up a livestock syringe from Tractor Supply that I will be able to attach vinyl tubing to, so I may remove as much of the old gear oil out of the diff through the filler hole as possible without removing the whole cover.

I'll let you guys know if I'm successful or not.

I have a problem. I have the car up, just finished the transmission fluid change. Now I can't fit my wrench to unscrew the filler screw, the exhaust pipes are in the way... Seems like the 10mm allen wrench socket sticks out too much from the filler screw.

Those who have done this successfully, where did you acquire your socket for the wrench? I got mine from Harbor Frieght, the Pittsburg brand.

You might need to take the muffler section off. I have the stillen CBE and i had no problem. Maybe try an universal joint extension.

I ended up getting a 6 inch extension, it worked :)

Was this for refilling the transmission fluid or rear differential?

Rear Diff. This was to access the refill plug/screw

Thank you!

Rule #1: ALWAYS take the filler screw off first. If you drain it, then can't get the filler off, then you're screwed.

Other than those with track/autox usage why is everyone changing the fluid much earlier than the 60k factory service manual interval?

Did mine a few days ago, easy peesie, thanks for the DIY!

I always change all of my fluids earlier than the manufacturer's recommended intervals. Cheap insurance against wear.

Because it's too cheap and easy not to :twocents:

Like TreeSemdyZee, I change all fluids (especially the first change, to get rid of break-in junk) earlier than what the factory calls for. After the first change, I'll usually go with 75-85% of factory specs.

With modern lubes, factory recommendations are just fine for most DDs, but I'm Old School. :)

YMMV

I'm with you all ^^ on changing early, just thought I'd ask if there's an inherent problem that necessitates the earlier changes. I saw some at 7k, 12k, 15k which seems like a waste of time and money if it's purely a DD type. Thanks for the responses.

Thanks for the DIY spearfish - Made it that much easier! I have about 50k on mine and I'm thinking the previous owner must have changed the fluid at some point. The fluid was fairly dark, but still translucent and not like some of the photos I've seen. There was a decent amount of metal on the magnet (I guess it's doing its job). It's good peace of mind to know the fluid is fresh though. I didn't need to jack up the rear - just slid cozily on under the muffler. Arm just got tired from using a manual pump to get new oil in.

Did this today ..super easy since I used to have a G37 no difference.

:tup:

I wish I could fit my fat a$$ under the Z when it is sitting on the ground :icon17:

Truth. I got partially stuck when trying to slide under. Had to stop freaking out so that I could wiggle my way out.

Faint Gear oil smell after change?
 

I just got done doing this, pretty straight forward. However, when accelerating quickly to higher RPMs (5-6k) I smell the distinct gear oil smell in the cabin for a short amount of time.

I checked the diff and it's not leaking, it was slightly damp around the drain plug but not sure if it was from the initial change and I didn't clean up well enough.

Anyone else had this experience? :driving:

Yes.

Still useful x years later, thank you OP. Being a lil person I had plenty of room after loosening the muffler and jacking up the rear (a couple times). Slightly different process with the MA Motorsports diff cooler, but I'm glad I came here first.

So fun , im not excited to do it again :(:)_:(:)
 

SO, my take away was this: garbage bag your garage floor (tape sealed and all) This stuff stinks...

was worth doing the tranny and dif though.... was crisp like the moment when
I bought it.. almost had to shift a little different ... wasn't to soupy

Good times... Only neg - i bought a gasket pack from z1... they were the wrong ones... had to hit up the dealership for them, since orielys was out of stock... Fun times...

FWIW, I’ll toss in my .02 worth. I used to have issues getting my jack under the rear diff and front crossmember of my ex Vette(s). I scrounged up 4 2 X 10 or 2 X 12 pieces of scrap wood from the building site next door,from the dumpster with the carpenters blessing. I cut them into four equal lengths,beveled the leading edge of each one and drove the C6 onto the lumber. It made rolling the jack underneath a breeze & if I didn't need jack stands ,it gave me just enough clearance to slide under the car on a piece of cardboard to get at the diff and transmission at the same time.:tiphat:

at what mile should the fluid be changed?

I always flush and refill my differential fluid once even 2 yrs/ 20K miles whatever comes first on every Z I have owned.

I believe the recommended interval is 15k miles.

My opinion. 1st is right when you buy it if used. 7-8k if new. For used, go to start from new schedule, new 2nd one after another 10-15k. After that you can let it go longer. Another 30k is fine, oil will still be clean. Each change should have significantly less metal shavings on the magnet. After the 3rd there should be next to nothing on the magnet. Same goes for the tranny.

If you have a clutch style LSD, cut everything in half.

A lot depends on how much and how hard you drive the car. I'm not all that hard on a car, so:
For a new car, I like to do the first diff (and trans) change at about 30,000 miles and every 40,000-60,000 after.
For a used car, I will change all fluids within a few weeks of getting the car. If any fluids look dirty, I will do another change in about a week. And then the same 40k-60k for the diff as above.

If you drive hard or use cheaper lubes, you'll may want to change sooner.

I changed mine 2 days ago. This time I used Liqui Moly (2048) SAE 75W-90 Fully Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 Liter.

There is a built in tube in the bottle that makes the transfer a lot easier and less messy. 2 of these will be enough and there will be plenty left over in each.

There is a noticeable reduction in the noise, doesn't drive differently as far as I can tell.

For AT and NISMO models:
. API GL-5 synthetic gear oil, Viscosity SAE 75W-90
Except for AT and NISMO models:
. Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or equivalent
conventional (non-synthetic) oil


Just curious....this is from the owners manual. I notice a lot of you are putting synthetic diff oil in. Why would nissan recommend this and why are most all of you ignoring it....just asking because i want to do the right thing for my vehicle. What would it hurt to put a synthetic oil ( im asking because this is what i have available in my garage) instead of convention in my Z sport?


Thanks in advance!

I would disregard this manufacturers recommendation as any quality synthetic API GL-5 differential fluid will suffice for our application. A 75W90 gear oil is a suitable replacement for a differential calling for an 80W90 or SAE 90 gear oil. I recommend 75W90 synthetic Redline gear oil or equivalent.

Changing your differential fluid on time is key. Not changing your differential fluid on time or when required is detrimental. I try to keep taps on my differential and change my differential fluid every 30K or 3 years. Attending track events I will change differential fluid after every event. Inspecting my differential fluid during a flush and refill I have found very small pieces of metal in my differential fluid before.

Thank you sir! I agree a synthetic high quality gear oil is mandatory.....It just is odd why Nissan would recommend two different types of oil. The differentials are the same on the Nismo and Sport....correct?

Thanks for the info. I changed my rear diff fluid at 30,000 km yesterday. All went smoothly as per the DIY, was pretty easy with the car on a hoist. One thing I noticed was that I only drained a little over one quart of fluid. I put the full 2 quarts back in and it just overflowed a little out the fill plug. There was no evidence of any leaks, just thought it strange that only 1 quart came out. Perhaps it came like that from factory I'm not sure ?