Yeah you can leave the clutch disk and pp if they are in good order. No worries st all. It’s the csc that isn’t serviceable.


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Yeah, I mean they were working fine prior to the CSC going ... so I'll just keep it for now...

Also, apologies for not thanking you very graciously for this DIY !! PERFECT!!

Was going step by step from the FSM and it was taking forever, this will definitely help save some time!

FYI on Pilot Bushing removal...
The bread trick works awesome. Similar to the grease trick but not messy at all. Keep packing bread with a tight fit bolt. Used it for the first time on my Taco a while back and worked like a charm.
Also...
If I was in there I'd put in the NISMO pilot bearing rather than the bushing.:tiphat:

Is bread and taco code for something?

Can anyone help me locate what the FSM calls the "Park/ Neutral Position Connector" - Im sure I just know it by a different name, and its escaping me, the FSM says to disconnect and I just want to make sure its disconnected.

Thank you !

Neutral safety switch is another name for it. It might be the switch on the clutch pedal. Hope that helps.

That is one of the sensors on the harness that wraps all the way around the trans. Disconnect them all, along with the brackets, and you can lay the entire harness to the side.


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Okay, great, having some trouble getting to the one on the drivers side of the trans but high up on the trans, tried lowering it but cant get enough leverage or a tool on the bracket to disconnect the whole harness itself ....

Ive loosened the 4 smaller engine side bolts to the bell housing, is it okay to lower the trans with those loose? Im guessing the only way to get to those higher plugs is to have the trans as low as it will go by unbolting the trans crossmember...

Got it out!!! And actually getting it out was harder than back in, guessing I just got lucky ... however like an idiot I completely removed the starter and I’m having an extremely hard time getting it back in... I pulled it out thru the front so I’m guessing that’s how it would go back in but I can’t figure it out for the life of me.... any tips/tricks???

One additional note, you'll need a T55 Torx bit for this project. It's mentioned indirectly by the OP, but not on the list of tools. I missed it in my read through and ended up having to make a quick stop at Autozone.

Great write. I pulled my trans this past weekend and replaced my failed CSC with Zspeed CSC. I wouldn't say it's difficult. The hardest part was putting the trans back alone.

Pilot bushing removal - I have to admit I was highly skeptical about the large bolt & bread (or grease) technique, but it just worked! It only took a couple of minutes. We didn't have any white bread, so I used a flour tortilla. ROFL. Saved me a trip to the parts store. I still can't believe it worked!

Great guide, thank you! I've replaced my stock parts with ZSpeed 20lb SMF flywheel, Stage2+ clutch and pressure plate, OEM CMS and heavy duty CSC off Ebay. I've also bought brand new flywheel bolts from Nissan.

One thing to add removing driver side CAT/Pipe makes a huge difference in reaching the tranny top bolts.

I had access to the hoist, electric power tools, tranny jack and it took 9 hours with some short breaks. I had all day so I wasn't in a particular rush and wanted to do things slow and right.

Very happy with a final result, this project was prompted by the fact that the OEM DMF was making lots of noise and vibrations due wear at the track and the stock clutch although having lots of meat couldn't hold the power anymore. Also OEM CMS and CSC were failing. So pretty much the entire clutch system needed a replacement.

My transmission wont go back in. I've spent the last I hours using two Jack's working it up and down and it wont line up. I can get it half way but the splines wont go. The engine is also rocked backwards at a downward angle.

My transmission wont go back in. I've spent the last 8 hours working two Jack's up and down trying to match with the downward angled engine.