What I did to fix my steering lock failure...
 

Check it out. Not quite done, but the basics are there.

If you want more info on it, shoot me a PM. ;)

So what does that box do?

Sub'd. Waiting with bated breath for more details.

Replaces the unit, gives you a kill switch to enable/disable ignition lockout.

And drops nearly 2 pounds off the front of the car.

I have the fuse pulled but still liked to get rid of the unit.

Did you transplant the electronics or just fake the uswitches?

Electronics are transplanted and modified a fair bit.

No microswitches remain to haunt you... no mechanical bits to fail leaving you stranded.

Way too much for a mechanical illiterate like me. I say, "Just pull the fuse!"

If your unit fails before you pull the fuse, you're boned.

You have a few choices:

1) Buy a $550 unit and pay someone to install it if you're not mechanically inclined.

2) Hack apart your existing unit, twist the mechanical bits around until it works, seal it back up somehow after pulling the fuse and hope it never rattles loose again.

3) Talk to me.


Edit:

And GOD FORBID some tech at some auto repair/service center sees a missing fuse and decides to put one in for you to do you a big favor and BOOM, interlock engages and you're boned.


With this method, that isn't possible, and it's actually MORE secure (theft wise) than leaving the unit in place with the fuse pulled.

Will you be posting more details and pictures? I have pulled the fuse on mine but am still be very interested in how you did it.

"Emulate" may have been a better word to use than "fake". I was assuming, if you went to as much effort as it appears to be (the outside looks very professional and you did a neat job of cannibalizing the connector :tiphat: ), that you would have eliminated the physical switches.

Pulled my use after reading the early/warning posts long ago. Just saying that I find the pre-emptive fuse pull a lot easier and more appropriate than your approach for a mechanical imcompetant like me.

Nobody is going to replace the fuse in the IPDM just to be a nice nice guy,they can't even find it.

LOL.

Took me a while to find it, actually.

Nissan removed the system completely. The last thing Im doing is putting it back. The 2lbs matter about ZERO. You will not go faster or brake better.
If you have pulled the fuse/installed the bypass etc why on earth do you really need it back in. Your insurance company will not care nor should you.
I have insurance. If my car gets stolen. Whatever. I will get another one. That car, assuming I buy a current model will not have a steering lock and I damn sure wont be adding it.

While this is not the method I would use (I pulled the fuse), I think it is nice to have another alternative.

I interpreted the "two pounds" comment as being hyperbolic salesmanship. Two pounds, by itself, isn't going to do much for performance or economy (extremely close to the zero you quote), but it is two less pounds to tote around. A few pounds here and a few pounds there add up after awhile. I'd use the same pitch if I were in the OPs position.

I'm not so sure that some insurance company wouldn't say that since you defeated a factory security feature, it's your fault that the car was stolen. Maybe not. Since I've pulled my fuse, it's pretty obvious I'm not worried about it. ;)

Well, I say it weighs 2 pounds and that it matters because some of us actually care about that sort of thing, that's all.

nice looking box, but painter's tape? :icon17: ;)

Just holding it together until I had time to finish packaging the internals. Didn't want to run the screws in and out too many times. Plastic and all.

^^ oh i c. :tup:

So I'm new to this car, what exactly is the steering lock thing alot of guys here talk about?

They quit putting them in 370Zs in 2011. Your 2013 doesn't have one.

See thread "steering lock entry and immobilizer delete"

It includes as did my other thread a year ago (which some-one zapped by posting rubbish) ...includes dumping the lock and fixing the circuit board
and how to place it.

The thread(s) were and are still AOK and valid.

Good luck,

Fritz.

That's nice to know. Thanks

Humm. I will have to check my 2011 then.

It's easy to check... If you hear this LOUD thing that engages when you turn your car off, you have it

Well then, it has it then.

Awesome... FYL, honestly, if I were you (and it's what I'm doing) is wait until the last day of my warranty to remove it... I don't mind the hassle of having it towed for free and getting a free rental car, LOL

The thread mentioned does cover the basics on how to do it without modifying the electronics at all.

What I did is a bit more permanent, stable and admittedly most likely overly complex.

1. Remove switches and servo connection hardware completely
2. Attach external switch to sensor channel A's "on" circuit
3. Hotwire sensor channel B's circuit closed permanently (which, incidentally, is is 'off' rather than 'on' in a 'turning the power on or off' context)
4. Package the PCB into a plastic enclosure

:tup:

Note: "Sensor Channel A/B" is just what I am calling them. There are two circuits whose statuses have to toggle in order for the PCB to send the required waveform/pulse to the BCM to enable the ignition.

Good job!

I'll just say, anyone with a failed or functional SLU that wants to convert it to a simple plug in with a kill switch like I have here, I will do the conversion for them for the cost of parts + shipping and $20 for my time.

Takes me about an hour or so to do the whole thing now that I've gone through the iteration of trying different methods already.

Shoot me a PM if anyone is interested.

Edit: and if you want it with no kill switch, I'll do that too. Doesn't matter to me. ;)