sorry for bringing this back up! do you know where the dip stick level is suppose to register at? mines reading over the high mark but my oil pressure is very normal.

this might help out others that wanna do this. for the frame you don't have to cut it. just bend it back a lil for clearance so you can install your bolt.
http://i36.tinypic.com/160388j.jpg
after you get your bolt up there use an angle socket to screw it in and torque it down to spec.
http://i38.tinypic.com/qz3gom.jpg
lastly, just try to bend it back or use a small wood to hammer it back.
http://i35.tinypic.com/fvwizk.jpg

OP, you can copy these pic's and update it to your first post if you want.

You should be using the dipstick just like normal. Thinking about it visually: you're adding depth at the bottom of the pan, and you're dropping down the oil pump's pickup tube by the same amount, but you want the oil level relative to the lower engine components to remain the same (which is why the dipstick didn't move). Having your oil overfilled too much (by the dipstick) can cause frothing of your oil, which isn't great for lubrication.

Thanks for the update/pics on bending that corner tab. Much better solution than mine (cutting it off), guess I'm just an impatient careless bastard sometimes :). I'll link it back to the top so nobody else misses it.

I have had tis exact combination in my car for the last 2 years ... I never have issues on the track and daily driving in Melbourne (Australa) summer (regualr 40Deg C temps) never see oil temps above105 DegC

Track temps nefer exceed 115-120DegC.

Simple and very effective mod.

RB

Does anybody know if the cover will still fit with the spacer?

If you are talking about the bottom cover. It fits on mine with no problems.

Yeah I was, thanks!

I'm not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but I figured i would give it a shot.

I'm in the middle of an oil pan upgrade and I scraped the underside of the engine where it meets the pan. Since I'm upgrading the pan, I didn't care about the oem pan getting damaged so I pried it off using a chisel and a flathead screw driver. You can see the damage in the pic. I'm thinking about sanding it down very lightly. Since the ultra grey gasket sealer actually maintains the seal, does anyone think this will cause an oil leak once the new pan is on?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3f376831ed.jpg

Also, will gasket remover damage the bottom of the engine? I know it will take the paint off of the pan, but since the engine isn't painted, I was considering using it to take off the reminanents of the oem seal.

Take a flat file. And file that down. MAKE sure to hold the file flat against the surface. It won't take much effort. Looks like you have one gouge on the right side of the picture that goes all across the mating surface. That's where you need to keep it clean when you put RTV on.

Use a razor blade scrapper to remove the RTV. It will come off stringy. Then hand wire brush.

Sometimes the spray on gasket remover will not work on some RTV's.

Rusty! Thank You for the fast response! I'm over here freaking out about this. It's nice to know there are always people in here willing to help.

Just to be clear:
Remove the oem gasket first, use a flat file gently across the entire front surface to even it all out. Then use the rtv to seal it properly.

Fast learner. :tup: If you have a file that is wider then the surface width. Use that. Less chance of creating a low spot.

Thanks again!

:tiphat: