Looking to have the vents done soon. I am wondering how much cooler air will get through on a Injen CAI versus the Stillen G3 CAI being they are mounted in different areas.

You just need to aim the hoses or ducting at your filter. A left and right 90 degree angle off the fang holes, pointed toward you injen should work..

Thanks a bunch, I may pm you if I have any questions on the install or parts. I did check out your album.

btw...props in advance for this great contribution to the community.

Here is a slight variation that will save you $17 on installation.

I used 2.5 inch neoprene brake duct hose from Porterfield brake company. Rather than attaching a set of flanges to the air pass through I just jammed the hose directly into the airbox. With a little flexing of the hose it fits in perfectly.

The last picture is one taken with my cell phone directly into the airbox.

Oh, yeah. I also routed the hoses around the outside of the crash bar. This required removing the air deflectors.

gonna finally do this mod today :happydance:

any idea how much of a temperature difference this mod makes in the winter time?

And also, how does this mod compare to short tube and CAI?

Over stock, None as the OEM boxes are sealed to the radiator wall and pull air from outside the bay. Intake Air Temps (IAT's) will run 5-10 degrees over ambient typically, while rolling. That 5-10 degrees, as measured at the MAF, is mostly a function of the airbox and MAF being inside the bay. Both a Stillen G3 and my Custom short rams run roughly the same temps based on reports here. Open element short rams though typically will run 25 degrees+ over ambient. The hose will lower that a bit, but without completely shielding the filters they're still gonna suck a lot of engine bay heat. Mine are shielded and insulated so the impact there is minimal. During very cold weather I've seen the difference from ambient go to 2-3 degrees.

only thing i dont like is it looks like your sealing the ducting to the air box? making it the only way of air getting in. wont that basically make it have to suck through a straw to get air at idle and low speeds. though that doesnt seem like much but im pretty sure your hurting the performance through a good bit of the launching untill certain speeds are hit. ive seen setups like this and watched cars lose power because of that until certain speeds are pushing enough air in. have you actually had the car on a dyno with that setup? cool air is good an all. but it the engine is actually having to struggle to get the air its not helping. you need something to actually monitor air CFMs and see if its actually helping or hurting. but i could be wrong. but that happened to me and a few others on our grand prix bck when i had one. the intakes are very similiar to the Z other than only having one box.
we had places at the bottom of our front fascia perfect for ducting. but it turned out because of the length of tubing the engines were being starved of air.

My airboxes are not connected/sealed to the inlets. Even if they were, the flanges are no smaller than the actual pass through ports to the OEM boxes.
My experiments on another similar design (sealed) on another car showed that the flow up dual 2.5" hoses was enough to pretty much eliminate any restriction at the airbox outlet, and actually show some positive pressure on a Magnehelic gauge..

http://images50.fotki.com/v1527/phot...MG_1849-vi.jpg

Hey Modshack, did you get pack A or pack B for the stainless clamps on the website (Http://www.aircraftspruce.com) you provided?

+1 times as many times as I can for you by the way =]

Not sure what you mean by A or B......I used clamps I had laying around.....Just pick some up at Home Depot (Plumbing Dept) or your local hardware store. These are just standard stainless worm clamps. Be sure they'll handle 2.75" diameter...

Perfect, Thanks!! :tup:

is there a chance for the water to get into the filters when it rains?

No...The airspeed is not fast enough to carry water (other than a mist) up the tubes....I believe the airboxes have drains anyway...

had a chance to get any dyno numbers? esp say with a good fan blowing into the inlets to see the true difference in power gained with air rushing in.

Huh?......No...This is not a RAM AIR set-up. All it does is help cool the air charge coming into the filter area. Cooler IAT's usually result in more timing advance which equals more power. Doubt you could ever dupicate this on a Dyno...

Think this would work to put air onto oil/dif coolers mounted in front of the wheel wells, would it be effective?

You could by cutting holes in this panel and ducting air into the area in front of the wheel liner:

http://images47.fotki.com/v1497/phot...MG_1683-vi.jpg

Looks like there's already a mold mark for this! You'd also have to louver the front of the wheel liner to promote flow through...

http://images50.fotki.com/v1514/phot...MG_1709-vi.jpg

So make a vent that would move the air out into the wheel well, that might help keep the brakes cooler too.

For street use you'd get a better bang for the buck running the lines to the intake. There are simpler ways to duct air to the brakes..(Flaps on the lower control arms etc)

I hate to be paranoid, but from someone who lost his 350 to flood waters last year, I'm slightly leary of this setup. I had one of the common bumper inlets on my car with a tube running to the airbox. I know that is much more of a straight line than this, but there is a serious vacuum effect in the intake that needs to be considered.
I may be completely off-base, but I'm slightly paranoid if you know what I mean. Just my :twocents:

Modshack,

I had the mod done last week while installing the oil cooler while the bumper was off. Since I tracked the car for a day with both mods, i couldn't measure the "gains" but i am pretty sure that your DIY helped to reduce the engine bay at WOT speed. Great addition!

Question for those who did this mod:

- I notice some "strange" outside temp on the console (showing more than the actual outside temp was). Did anyone notice this or did my mechanic damaged the outside air temp sensor :confused:

Phil.

Paranoid people should not mod......:tup:

(or at least avoid driving through deep water)

Oh. NOW you tell me not to drive through deep water. :icon17:

:tup:Very nice, great work !:tup:

Guys what about these ducts for those of us w/ stock or SRI's?


http://www.z1auto.com/images/minesaero370z.jpg

What about it? Forced outside ambient air is good for either.

Modshack, you made it home?

Tuesday nite! Turbo installed, 800 miles, 23 MPG....

Well I wasn't sure if you'd recommend a filter behind these ducts in that pic I posted if say we had dual SRI. I know these being much more expensive then your DIY but I figured for the paranoid these might help them sleep better?.?. :)
Congrats!

My Modshack designed intake was essentially an SRI. No need for any additional filters or anything that would slow or restrict airflow. Converted back to stock, left the vents in, before I sold the car and still worked just fine..

you sold your z?!? i never knew that!!!

3-4 of us here have made the change...:eek:

http://images116.fotki.com/v693/phot...ripesig-vi.jpg

:shakes head:

^^^


+1


I did this mod long ago on my 350 before the longtubes...good good on the write up OP!


sucks you got a mustang...

:roflpuke2:

Anyone do this and can report actual gains? I don't want to buy $75 worth of RC flanges for a no gain mod.

I recall reading the OP did some ambient temp testing before and after ... and concluded it did indeed lower temps in the engine bay. I have Typhoon's, so getting cooler air up into the engine bay was important to me.

Did it net power gains worthy of $75 ? Who knows. It would cost roughly three times (75 dyno run, 75 do install, 75 after dyno run) as much to do a before and after dyno.

Great write up Modshack...Implemented it when I installed my Z1 oil cooler...Works great for my K&N short rams...Just wondering what did you use to fasten the flangesd to the inside of the bumper??? pop rivets??? I just drilled a hole in the flange ear and used one of the fasteners that was used to hold the blanking plate in plate...and notched the upper plastic tab ...might still have to rivet it..still alittle loose. Any how thanks for the great ideas...sorry to hear you sold your Z...Miss living in North Carolina...

Thanks!
I just used some sheet metal screws, and did have to trim as you noted.

More pics here: Fang Vents: Forced air cooling for your airbox.. album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

http://images18.fotki.com/v674/photo...MG_1884-vi.jpg