Yep, shortly after this original post. No regrets. Did this and the TB coolant delete at the same time.

Ever track? I'm curious since Martin said 260* with it and if you get higher or lower tracking.

That's basically all my car does. I've never hit 260 even in the summer, but the tracks we run and the weather will definitely influence the numbers somewhat.

I don't think it made any difference in oil temps. Just cleaned things up, removed some weight, and made oil changes a hell of a lot easier.

So he's probably worse being out in CA. Ok thanks.

Danka Synolimit for finding this.

So the hose 5 to pipe 13 and 12 is easy enough.

DJtodd was anything needed with the Mocal Plate other than what is included after taking out the oem sandwich plate? I'm just waiting on some SS tubing to arrive before I install I have all the other components except the 2 angled fittings coming out of the mocal plate wanted to see how the hoses route to see what angles I need to get. I have seen 90's 45's and I think a 60 deg in different installs.

Thanks

I'll have to climb under and take a look at the fittings. I think one was actually more than a 90.

The only thing you'll need that comes to mind is an pre-2012 oem oil filter stud to replace the one that holds the 12+ oem cooler plate on. I think it was like...$8?

If I were doing it again today I might consider removing #12, but I don't know if you could even get to it without removing the driver's side header.

My morcol plate came with a stud. You talking about a longer one or something else?

Thanks for the info.

I haven't been under to see exactly how I want to route the oil lines yet but, I was thinking about routing them around the drivers side then along the front of the engine. Removing hose #9 leaves 2 holes for securing brackets for the new hoses if it routes with no kinking or tight bends and should secure it above the sway bar.

Mine came with an adapter stud as well. Just looked up the STUD OIL FILTER on Nissans web page and 2011-2013 all list the same part 15213-31U00.... it also says part fits Year range 9/2010 to 5/2012.

The oem cooler was a pain... Just wait till you add boost, then you need cooling. I have a cooler the size of a small rad for mine. 13x12x1.5..... Takes forever to come up to temperature even with a plate (added oil capacity) But it just keeps the temps in check when tracking it.

Do you perhaps have any images? I'm busy installing my cooler as we speak, but the OEM oil cooler makes the space a PITA to work in.

Deos anyone have images? I cannot route the z1 oil cooler lines so that they fittings will fit on the thermostatic plate (I am following z1 instructions) , just not enough space with the Oem oil cooler. Whoever here did it please share, I'm stuck at this point. I have 14 Nismo.


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There is enough space, BARELY. I just finished doing this install on my 2012 Nismo so I know how tight it is in there. You have to clock the thermostat so that the fittings are facing towards the rear subframe. Then take the longer of your oil lines and make a note of which one it is as that one will hook up to the fitting closest to the rear subframe. Take the thermostat off the oil cooler, hook up the oil lines, tighten them, and then re-install. It's tight, and it's a PITA, but it's doable. Do yourself a favor and get a 1 inch crescent wrench to tighten the oil lines again once they are on the thermostat, and a 1 inch shallow socket to tighten the thermostat to the oil cooler.

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So I'm also in NorCal and regularly visit Sonoma, Thunderhill and Laguna Seca, I'll actually be back at Laguna in 2 days :D.
I've noticed that as I've gotten faster, the hobby has gotten more expensive and the car runs hotter. Who would have thought LOL.

My main question for this thread is if it would be best to keep the oil cooling independent from the coolant? While tracking in 107F, My oil temps would get to 260 in 3 hot laps. I start to cool down, peak at my coolant gauge, and it's 1 dot in the red LOL or from it... I don't remember.

Would this be due to the coolant providing additional cooling to the extremely hot oil? Or is the oil being cooled efficiently, and heated up going through the oem cooler, defeating the purpose of the 34 row?

I can't honestly remember the routing. Is it from the pickup>filter>z1 cooler>oem cooler> engine? Or something else?

Just questions for debate. While I agree that it's a pain working with the filter, I don't mind the extra work for additional cooling.

If you go by Fast Intentions description for their oil cooler:

I'm planning to remove my re-circ system when I install their kit.

instructions:
https://www.fastintentions.com/wp-co...tion-Guide.pdf

really easy:
https://capture.dropbox.com/lx8G1qMDF4ofx11b?raw=1