![]() |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Next, try removing the SLU and push the locking pin to the fully retracted position. This may make the microswitches. Lastly, disassemble the SLU, verify switch operation, and reassemble in fully retracted position. If none of those three work, you will have to buy a new SLU. :( |
Quote:
|
You must have posted about the same time I started editing. You beat me to the punch. ;)
|
Can the car be running when you do this? Mine recently didn't work until I beat it with a hammer but I'm scared I turn it off before doIng this. Please respond quickly
|
Quote:
|
dude it was crazy it locked up on me, so I banged the thing with a hammer pulled the wires out of the steering lock and copped the brown guys head clean off. Car works perfectly now.
|
I need help...
Guys, my steering wheel locked died on me, so now the car won't start.
Now, the "good" news is that it died with the lock disengaged, so i can actually move the steering wheel. I saw that removing the fuse would disable the lock, so i did that. The problem is the car still won't start even though i also disconnected the battery. Can anyone point me in the right direction here? Because i don't want to shell out 500 bucks for another steering lock that is doomed to fail anyway (car is out of warranty). And i figured since the steering lock is disengaged, might as well just disable the thing for good. Thanks in advance! |
Cutting that wire will void the warranty? I still have about 6 months of warranty left. How would the dealership ever find out unless they purposely look underneath the steering lock and undo the wire tape?
|
Reply to Kamus:
Almost certainly not a lock problem. Engine probably died...steering went stiff...but can now be turned. Batt re-connected firmly should have done no real harm other than windows programming (owners manual). Standard test procedures should reveal the problem but: Does the starter turn the motor? Do the lights go dim? Does a batt terminal get hot after trying to start. Is batt at 12V +? Does it start by a different procedure like foot on brake in N? ....and many more ... After that, deal with the steering lock, maybe. Harness is best and quickest, but costs a bit. Add a switch to it if car theft is a problem. You can then immobilise the car at will to reject its own or a cloned key. Fritz |
Quote:
|
I wrote up my own guide on a workaround in mine. Mine was the same situation when I took it out. The lock was disengaged, but not completely in the lowered position to hit the buttons that tell the engine it's ok to start.
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...dy-failed.html |
Thanks to all for this thread.
My wife's 09 Altima had this problem, but the steering wheel could be moved. I pulled the fuse and no change. Then I beat the tar out of the lock under the dash and it started working.After cycling the car on off a few times I then left it in the acc position and pulled the fuse. No more problem Thanks for saving me $500+, a trip to the dealer and a unhappy wife. :tiphat: |
Well my bad I did not cut the wire or the pull the fuse already. Mine **** the bed yesterday and nothing has allowed me to start the stupid car.
And I had the D version of the lock on a 2011. FU Nissan I took the lock apart and tried the circuit board with the switches depressed and no dice. FU Nissan. I guess I will have to order the part from FU Nissan. |
The Fuse pull worked for me! The ESCL had already locked and I couldn't start the car. Used the "beat the lock with a hammer" approach and it kicked right into AC lol. Then just pulled the fuse and good to go! Can't believe it was so easy.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:19 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2