How to adjust your clutch pedal Correctly.
 

Guys I did a bit more fine tuning today with the adjustment procedure, Made a video for you also

This should resolve any adjustment issues you are having.

Picture below is of the Cruise switch adjustment at the top of the pedal bracket assy, On some cars this may be too far out not allowing the pedal to make a full return to the top and will not allow a full master cylinder stroke if out too far.

Adjust as shown first, This is pretty much mandatory.

http://photos.zspeedperformance.com/...rdsize=788x768

After the cruise switch is adjusted, now adjust the master cylinder rod at the pedal as this video shows, Basically you want to back off the adjustment only until the clutch pedal closes the cruise shut off switch and you have slight play in the clevis/pedal attachment point.

Video

If you have any questions feel free to PM or call us

Little bit more info on this here:
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2024536

In our experience removing the helper spring causes issues and is not recommended. It is there for 2 purposes, It holds the pedal at the top to hold the the cruise switch closed while cruising and also helps to make the pedal feel lighter only at the full bottom position while sitting in traffic.
I don't see any good reason to remove it.

If you remove it it can cause the pedal to hang at half point and not fully return to the top after clutch actuation.

I agree, the spring does have purpose and should not be removed, but it is over kill, if you research the threads here it has a force of 320+ lbs. which is has a kick back when trying to let the clutch out when starting out from first gear. I change out this spring out to a 160 lb unit and it made such a difference in the controllably.

Mike (LMBmikeZ) sells a spring for $20 that is half the tension strength of the OEM spring and it makes a really big difference.

Clutch Pedal Spring

I put the light weight helper spring in, first mod. Didn't notice a difference on the clutch pedal, the feel still sucked. Mine would engage near the top of the pedal throw making it difficult to make a smooth engagement. For me, the improvement came when I lowered the engagement position of the clutch to about 3 inches off the floor. Feels much better now and have about 20k miles on it with this setup. I use cruise control all the time and have no issues.

Not sure about what your saying about the spring... To release the compression off the spring I remember depressing the pedal about half way. So that would mean the spring only exerts force when the pedal is in it's highest engaged postion. Not when your stopped in traffic pushing on the clutch. It's been a while since I did this so maybe I remember it wrong.

For me the spring mod helped didnt help with the throw but more the release of the pedal. when shifting in 1&2 gears it would "pop" back making it difficult for a smooth take off and secondary shift. im not always trying to drive it like i stole it so the OEM spring made me feel like i was 16 again learning to drive clutch...:icon14:

Joe@zspeed wrote
In our experience removing the helper spring causes issues and is not recommended. It is there for 2 purposes, It holds the pedal at the top to hold the the cruise switch closed while cruising and also helps to make the pedal feel lighter only at the full bottom position while sitting in traffic.
I don't see any good reason to remove it.

If you remove the spring and the pedal does not return, there's a probable incoming
problem. Start with tight bushing, lousy adjustment, and move to contaminated fluid swelling up the seals. It is a servo spring and nowt else.
.....But removing it is, as elsewhere stated, a huge contribution. (to this driver's feel and therefore reduced clutch wear).
There's a link to the thread a few posts up.

Hey guys, wow I am so glad that I found this post. I just switched to the Z from a g35 and finding it very difficult to operate the clutch smoothly, a problem that I have not had in any of my vehicles. My first thought was to adjust the pedal so that it does not engage at the last inch of travel. I looked at the manual and it only talks about making adjustments on the switches. I am sure the is an adjustable rod and will look at the video in previous entry. Any further advice would be great

Any chance you could repost a working vid link?

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