Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself) (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/)
-   -   DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s. (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/47181-diy-replace-dreaded-steering-lock-2009s-early-2010s.html)

kenchan 01-18-2012 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1496123)
可能在组合的一块555个定时器芯片。 虽然便宜的联合微型控制器的价格我大概那些日子会被诱惑连同路线也是

is this your name in chinese, tiki tiki tembo? :icon17:

ChrisSlicks 01-18-2012 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1496192)
Well what I mean is, we don't really have to capture them, since they're documented and they have to come from the BCM because there's no other way it's signaling the module to make the change.

What I don't understand is whether the lock module also supplies voltage to this wire at times to provide feedback to the BCM or something.

One way or another, a replacement would need: a cheap microcontroller to sense the command pulses on the communication line and update a little NVRAM state indicating whether the fake lock is currently stuck-on or stuck-off, the microcontroller would need to be powered on any time either of the power supply pins lights up and provide S1/S2 feedback based on NVRAM, and possibly voltage feedback on the communication line as well.

I think the output voltage signal only needs to be supplied when the unit is in the powered state and that the unit can be power off pin 106. Pin 111 is also temporarily powered to 12V prior to any signal being sent.

One test that may be revealing is whether you can simply permanently send an "UNLOCKED" status voltage without throwing a terminal error (might show as a lock error but still allow you to start and drive). I wonder if failed units where not sending a voltage on either pin or registering "LOCKED".

wstar 01-18-2012 01:10 PM

Oh I checked UpRev's rom editor, the 3x DTC codes related to the lock module aren't in the list UpRev can suppress (otherwise, I'd try just removing the unit and suppressing those DTCs).

ZedSled 01-18-2012 02:44 PM

This crap just happened to my Z last Friday, 13th (go figure) Got in my car to go to work in the morning and nothing happened when I pushed the start button. Got the little yellow missing key light. At the time I didnt know about the steering column trick or tapping the steering lock with a hammer. My car is now at Courtesy Nissan and they said the part is backordered for 3 weeks...WTF! Also my car is parked in the lot with the drivers side window down. Probably need to head up there and try the steering column trick to get my window back up.

BTW, this totally sucks!!! At least its under warranty and they supplied a loaner Nissan Sentra.

kenchan 01-18-2012 04:07 PM

Zedsled- you're at courtesy nissan... isn't that the same nissan aka courtesyparts?

if so they show they have the part in-house...(?)

LOCK SET-STEERING - 370Z (Z34) 2009+ :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

corbin09 01-18-2012 04:20 PM

My car had this problem. I took it to the dealer and they would not warranty it. I was at 41k when it happened. Too bad this wasnt up. I got stranded at an Autozone and had to get a tow. Boooo Nissan for no recall. I hope when I got mine done they put the most up to date one on. I will have to check tonight!

fritz 01-19-2012 10:46 AM

That was a lot of good advice, thank-you ... but i'd still like an old lock to play with.
What do racers do about this "lock" nonsense ?

Maybe Chrisslicks had the answer within the push button switch:

Sooo, I can turn off accessories myself so do not even need the "lock" mode on the ign/start button. "Accessories" will do fine.

Can that "lock" mode be deleted easily?

(It's then easy to fit an ignition or fuel pump delete switch..hidden)

Fritz.

ChrisSlicks 01-19-2012 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fritz (Post 1498465)
That was a lot of good advice, thank-you ... but i'd still like an old lock to play with.
What do racers do about this "lock" nonsense ?

Maybe Chrisslicks had the answer within the push button switch:

Sooo, I can turn off accessories myself so do not even need the "lock" mode on the ign/start button. "Accessories" will do fine.

Can that "lock" mode be deleted easily?

(It's then easy to fit an ignition or fuel pump delete switch..hidden)

Fritz.

To remove the stock starter button would be a bit of work, the button in the stock setup is just a contact closure which sends the press signal to the BCM, the BCM decides what "state" the car should be in, e.g. ACC, ON or START and sends a start request to the IPDM via the CAN bus. The IPDM turns the ignition relay on, and turns the starter relay on. When the BCM feedback determines that the engine is running it sends a stop signal to the IPDM for the starter relay. It seems like it should be possible to just re-wire the relay's to manual toggle switches/buttons instead of the IPDM, same for the fuel pump relay. I think you would also have to deactivate the vehicle security system using UpRev. If you did that then the steering lock could be removed as the BCM would be out of the loop for startingthe car. The BCM might be unhappy, but to what degree I'm not sure. I guess it depends to what degree you need auxiliary systems like windows etc.

wstar 01-19-2012 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fritz (Post 1498465)
What do racers do about this "lock" nonsense ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1498728)
I think you would also have to deactivate the vehicle security system using UpRev.

UpRev has a specific setting called "NATS off" you can set in their custom ROMs, which completely disables the Nissan Anti-Theft System code. Apparently only Pro-Tuners get this feature, not regular Tuner-licenses. Other than that little bit, the primary different between Tuner and Pro-Tuner is that Tuner is limited to one VIN, whereas Pro-Tuners can work on multiple cars. Most likely if you have a regular Tuner license, you can just go to a Pro-Tuner w/ the datafile and have them toggle this one option for you if you want, and then still edit the rest via Tuner and upload.

With NATS off, I would expect nothing about steering lock (or anything related) matters anymore and the equipment can be removed. The car also doesn't care about key-marriage at that point, although I'm not sure whether that means "any Nissan key in range will do", or if you don't have to have a key at all to start the car.

kenchan 01-19-2012 08:32 PM

guys, it looks like potentially up to Jan2010 build affected... 40th got hit today (high probability steering lock problem).

happytheman 01-19-2012 09:25 PM

This thread has left me light-headed, and feeling really dumb. :ugh2:

Ps. Here's the JF00D

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...700-jf00d.html

Alchemy 01-19-2012 09:38 PM

subscribed, in case of emergency

MJB 01-19-2012 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1499489)
guys, it looks like potentially up to Jan2010 build affected... 40th got hit today (high probability steering lock problem).

Any idea if he had RevC or RevD? If so then I'm really going to start to worry:shakes head:

kenchan 01-20-2012 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJB (Post 1499855)
Any idea if he had RevC or RevD? If so then I'm really going to start to worry:shakes head:

not sure. but ive not hear any repeat problems at the GTR forums using RevC so i am thinking his car was still using RevB...(?)

Vaughanabe13 01-20-2012 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1496139)
Hmm I still think I don't quite understand it. I blame Nissan's documentation :) This is my best current guess at how the whole thing operates, now:

The lock unit supposedly has 7 pins on it. I'm giving them my own names for now since I still haven't found a pinout for connector M40, which is the actual connector at the lock unit:

G1: Grounded permanently
G2: Grounded permanently
P1: power supply, switched by IPDM E/R
P2: power supply, switched by BCM
S1: feedback switch output: +12V when locked, 0V when unlocked
S2: feedback switch output: 0V when locked, +12V when unlocked
C: communication line between lock module and BCM

Physical states:
The steering lock can be in one of two physical states: locked or unlocked. Once it has switched to a given state, it will remain in that state until commanded to change, regardless of whether any power is supplied to the unit. No relay has to remain energized to maintain one of the states or anything like that.

Power supply states:
P1 (IPDM E/R): When ignition is ACC or ON, no voltage supplied. Temporarily supplies battery voltage for a short while after opening the driver's door when ignition is OFF, or after pushing the ignition button once when it's LOCKed.
P2 (BCM): When ignition is OFF or ACC, +12V is supplied. When ignition is ON, it is not.
None of this completely makes sense, but the bottom line is, when the ignition is ON, neither power supply pin gets voltage, so no change to steering lock status can occur. When ignition is not ON, one of the two power pins (or both) will give it power at the right times for it to respond to a lock or unlock command, somehow.
It could be the case that P1 (IPDM E/R) only powers the feedback switches that drive S1 and S2, and P2 (BCM) powers everything else (the mini-controller that communicates with the BCM and actually moves the lock)

Switch states:
The S1 and S2 outputs are redundant inverted status outputs. They're almost certainly driven by physical switches that are tripped by the locking mechanism itself. In the unlocked state only one of them provides +12V, and in the locked state only the other does. If they're both +12V or both not +12V, that triggers a diagnostic failure. If they don't feedback that commands were followed correctly, that also triggers a diagnostic failure. Also of note: these are connected to both the IPDM E/R and the BCM, so for some reason both modules want to see this status.

BCM Communication Line:

This is the perplexing 7th pin "C":
http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...ation-line.png

It's listed as both an input and an output for the BCM. It seems definitely sure that the BCM is who sends that little pulse train against a 12V background to send LOCK and UNLOCK commands, as an output. I misunderstood earlier that the pulse train came from the lock module.

What really makes no sense is how any of this could be an input back to the BCM. Maybe it's mislabeled (from my point of view), and it's a BCM-output only, and the BCM drives it at +12V while LOCKED, and 0V when unlocked for 15+ seconds, and whenever it wants to send a command, it applies the +12V (if unlocked before) and then sends the pulse signal.

I guess someone would have to figure out what the manual means by clipping onto this with a scope (or really, even a multi-meter would do, since the only complex bit is already documented in the diagram above).

The lock module almost certainly uses serial communication on line "C", which could be relative to the 12V power, but more likely it is relative to an internal voltage regulator (I'm guessing 3.3V or 5V) and probably optoisolated. It doesn't even matter what kind of protocol they are using (I2C, SPI, proprietary, etc.) because you could just use a bus pirate to record the streams that are getting received/sent from the lock module. Of course, this would require that you have a module that is actually working (and not intermittently). You could use a tiny microcontroller and a couple of relays to emulate a functioning lock. The use of flash or EEPROM for saving the switch state might not be the best solution, depending on how fast the micro boots up and how much time is available to send the "all clear" signal.

I can't work on this, unfortunately, because my Z is in storage. But it sounds like it wouldn't be too hard to make a fake lock module.


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