use a small hammer btw. no need for a sledge hammer even though emotionally u probably want to use dat instead. :ugh: :icon17:

Thanks, folks - also to those who have posted DIYs on this. Tried the hammer, unplugging,battery disconnect.... all no-go. I ended up doing something in between the Fritz and Shovelman methods. Removed both switches and hard-wired. It runs, and the only weirdness is, I have to push the start button twice before it goes into accessory mode.

Very nice. I I've question after installing the part of I need programming keys or this part

Hi....I I've question after installing the part of I need programming keys or this part.. I wanna bay part from Z for part


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Thanks for this and other threads, i got stranded and the car wouldnt start. I left the car at work garage and took a taxi back home. After reading through the threads, next morning i took a hammer with me, hit the steering lock once and it worked. I didnt want to take chances, i kept the car ON, removed the fuse immediately And got done with it.

Thanks again guys

Found a cheaper fix for our cars!!!
 

I found this today. It also comes with a key fob programmer for all your keys. This alone is worth the price.

Dorman 601-037 Steering Column Lock Actuator

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-601-03...cm_wl_huc_item
:happydance:

I know this is an old thread. Just to say this problem still exists. I just had it with a 2010 370Z Nismo. 52K on the clock, always taken care of and was very dependable until this: Stranded. And the door windows would creep down everytime you opened the doors. And you guessed it... you can’t roll them up. So you can’t just lock the car & leave it. I got a new battery for the fob, but knew in my heart it would be the dreaded steering lock failure.
I called triple A (CSAA) and had the car towed home. Not an easy task with a Nismo, you need a good driver with a flatbed and a lot of patience.
Nissan have refused to replace the unit under voluntary service campaign NTB13-014 which specifically says 2009-10 370Z. Nissan USA just say it’s VIN specific and my model isn’t affected. Yeah right. But it is. They expect me to cough up $1500 to get it fixed. Part is worth like $300 and the labor is about 0.6 hour from what I can discover. Should be a class action.

Meh. Just buy this part. It replaces the lock with a box that talks to the BCM =>ECU so the car starts, but it no longer locks the steering wheel. This is the genuine fix Nissan is doing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ignitio...e/352226882999
Part costs like $70... Part number is: 48708-9N00A

OK. In one sentence, it works. You do not have to pay Nissan $1,000 for the fix they offer. You have options. Here’s a long explanation of what I have found.

The part number which failed on my 2010 370Z Nismo with 52,000 on the clock:
48700-JF00C-B1-01 date: 16/02/10 So that’s Rev. C I believe.

It failed on Feb 10th 2020. I parked and then 2hrs later I was stranded. Towed home by CSAA, where it sat like a lump while I figured out what to do next. Luckily my AA membership covers the towing costs.

My part was Not currently covered by Nissan Voluntary Service Campaign (VSC) #P3208 Ref: NTB-13-014. Although it lists the following vehicles:
2009-2010 370Z (Z34)
2009-2011 GTR (R35)

I can’t see anything on the document to say my vehicle is specifically excluded. But as I an ‘out if warranty’ I don’t have a great argument, although I tried. Several times.

I have reported the to Nissan corporate through ‘Customer Service’. They basically told me I had to pay ‘out of pocket’ to fix my car, And unless they issued a VSC (or recall) that covered my particular year, model and VIN they would NOT help with the costs.

What Nissan recommended:
Tow the vehicle to us. The Nissan dealer offered that they would ‘waive’ the diagnostic fee of like $140. IF I towed it there and agreed to let them fix it for around $800 +tax. From what I can tell, the part they claim to replace may still fail again in future (although the part may be within warranty at that point).
They claim:
1. That they have to diagnose the fault- they won’t accept that I know the part has failed.
2. My only option is to let them fix it, and then perhaps get reimbursed in future from Nissan USA. I didn’t buy the car from Nissan USA, I bought it from the Nissan dealer. They should stand behind cars they sell.
3. They claim both key fobs would need to be ‘reprogrammed’ at an additional cost to me.

My fix and what I found.
A. Buy Nissan OEM part. p/n: 48708-9N00A
Interchange part number: 487089N00A
Cost is about $62.00 I got free shipping.
Available from Nissan distributors and on eBay. It’s an OEM part, but I can’t say what a Nissan Parts Counter would charge. If they would even supply one.

B. According to Reggie.Keith there is a more expensive Dorman ‘fix for ESCL fault’ p/n: 601037. I haven’t seen a writeup, but assume it works or you can ask fir your money back. See: https://youtu.be/wc4LK8OMuL0
Rockauto.com price is about $300, plus tax and shipping, once you put it in the cart the price went down for me from
The info blurb says they fail when the gear teeth wear out:
All Dorman's Steering Column Lock Actuators are engineered from high-quality materials for a long service life.
Features & Benefits:
• Upgraded replacement - this steering column lock actuator features several enhancements to increase reliability over the factory design
• Improved durability - internal gear teeth made of stronger compound for longer service life
• Enhanced technology - updated software adjusts gear speed and minimized teeth wear in future
• Easy installation - includes programmer and bolts for straightforward replacement.

I chose fix A. $62 shipped. It even came with the ‘break away’ security bolts. I did not use these as it doesn’t actually lock the steering column anymore.

I replaced the part, ensured the ESCL 10A fuse was in place and pressed start. It worked. I have not had to reprogram my key fobs. It took me two weeks to research the problem fully, order the right part and replace it.

You DO get the reassuring ‘whirring noise’ when you press Start, and again when you turn off the engine and open the drivers door to leave the car. So I believe it’s actuating switched with a motor. But there is no deadbolt which moves to actuate the steering column lock. It should last longer for this reason alone. It also had a plastic top case, rather than full metal protection around the entire part.

Option B Does lock your steering column and Does have an odbc ‘dongle’ which they claim is able to reprogram your key fobs. So if you fesr you may need that, pay the extra money. It is also completely metal and comes with the ‘break away’ security bolts. I have NOT tested this solution, although others have. It offers more security arguably for the $300. Still cheaper than the Nissan Dealer Service repair, although you have little chance of reimbursement of your $300+.

Probably my final post on this issue, provided the fault now goes away. I’m leaving the fuse in place, as I like the ‘whirring sound’ it’s comforting. My belief is that the motor may need to run in fix A for the switches to open & close properly. That’s what the BCM expects to ‘see’ when it handshakes with the ESCL and then tells the ECU that the car can start. I don’t wish to cut wires on my Z, or disable functions that were factory programmed into the start-up sequence.

👾👽 AlienPoker 👽 👾

:iagree: So that wasn’t my last post. If you have read the whole thread on this forum, I’ll leave you with this thought:
A $65 part which I could fit in 30mins vs. a $500 part that costs you $300 for Nissan to fit plus maybe extra charges. Hmmmmm.... makes you think.

Good luck, I hope you get back on the road. :driving:

Other Option - Pull The Fuse = $0.00 / 10 Minutes - Isn't THIS The Best Option - :confused:

Not from my experience. I’m just offering anyone having this problem OEM and Dorman updated fixes that haven’t been covered in detail in this thread.

I’d rather pay the $62 shipped for a genuine Nissan part and leave the car factory. Hacking wires or pulling fuses might have unexpected consequences. “Your milage may vary” and you can of course do as you like. Have even read my posts?

♦️ ♠️ AlienPoker ♠️❤️

I Have Read Your Posts & Agree That The $62 Option Is Far Better Than The Stealer Option. However - Having Pulled My Fuse Years Ago - Without Consequence - I Am Reluctant To Spend $62 So I Can Reinstall A Useless Fuse.:tiphat:

With a Nissan OEM part: They can’t argue with you about warranty eligibility, or that you hacked your harness and it can NEVER lock your steering wheel again, as it is missing the deadbolt. As the motor & gears don’t move a deadbolt, it will last longer (I hope)! It also communicates properly with the BCM-> ECU. I haven’t taken one apart yet, but it would be easy as the top cover is plastic. It’s almost the same price as the ‘cheater harness’ fix shipped.

The Dorman one might be useful if you live in a dangerous area, need to reprogram your key fobs (I didn’t with the ‘NISSAN OEM’ fix). Or maybe for insurance reasons you need you steering wheel to still lock.

YMMV. Good luck to all, whatever you do.

Alienpoker

I can name at least 50 Z owners who pulled their fuse nearly 10 years ago and experienced no ill effects. The only possible item was some people complained after the ESCL fuse was pulled that there was a small delay after pushing the start button before the car would turn on. Frankly, I felt like there was always a delay and it didn't change after pulling my fuse.

Fùck Nissan. I'm not giving them a dime of my money. After the lack of customer service related to this whole ESCL failure debacle, it's horseshìt that they are charging $62 for a fix. They should be doing it for free on every single car that ever had an ESCL module installed. They never fixed the ESCL - they simply removed it after a while. And that's all this $62 piece is - an empty fùcking box. The recall was a half-assed attempt to save face. That's some greedy corporate bullshìt if I've ever seen it :shakes head: