Zipper, would you happen to have a picture of the dremel bit you used?
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Sorry. Never mind. I'm tired and completely forgot that you started a thread answering this question. Time for bed, apparently. |
Cutting Bit
Just my 9 dollars and 99 cents worth of info...Dremel Tungsten Carbide Cutting Bit 9901. Use white out to fill in the template and take your time. Don't put too much pressure on the bit or you will break it.
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Thank you for the detailed instructions on this install. Everything went smoothly and so did my alignment today. I also want to say that I used a sanding stone 60 grit and it worked great, 2 round sandpaper tips per hole, but the cut is very precise!
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Just did the install with a 117 bit. Only took about 5-10 min a hole to do. I didn't even drop the spring out of the bucket. Start to finish in about an hour
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To what torque do you tighten the camber and or toe bolts after the install?
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... I did it by hand to a really snug feel then took it to the alignment shop. They put it to whatever after correcting the toe.
YzGyz |
DIY: Rear toe bolts install (Pics)
Thanks YzGyz, but I'm doing the alignment itself myself too so I won't be taking it to the shop.
Edit: The torques per FSM are 54 ft lbs for each toe and camber bolts. |
i think i read 73ft lbs somewhere.
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It's 73 Nm. The first number in the FSM is NM, then kg-m, then last ft-lb. they have it written as "Nm (kg-m, ft lb)" |
i mean really i jsut made them tight af. i jsut dont want them slipping
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Just did this today. Used white out to mark the area lol
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Sorry for reviving this thread but as mentioned here it seems Nissan beefed up the frame from aluminum to steel in the latest models and that affects this DIY. Can anybody recommend a product or steps to take in the effort to prevent the bare steel from getting rusty in the long term? Thanks
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